Coupe into Speedster Conversion

[JTR70]

Thanks Phil! Well PVC wouldn't rust but the clutch cable working back and forth in there would definitely saw through the walls faster than the rust would rot.

Thanks again Roy! Yes, all these smaller and required repairs do take time to sort out.

11/28/14
Tunnel T1 conversion and seam welding continues.

As Jack mentioned earlier the T2 shifter and heat controller unit need be switched to be correct for T1. Ergonomically a mistake but its got to be right. Original mount tabs have been removed and am grinding and finishing the remains of the old welds.

Original T1 tunnel from a coupster provides the correct spacing and placement info I need. Bolted a Shifter base plate to the mount tabs to both locate and center each side.

While I was at it this afternoon I also finished up that Long seam weld on this right hand side. Still have most of the left side to go.

Didn't want to dig out my heater control unit so I made a quick holding jig from piece of scrap.

Another T1 part I need to make is this mount plate for the reverse light switch.

Jig with mount tabs welded in new position.

A newly minted T1 tunnel housing.

Another test fit to double check for heat distortion.

Getting close, just a few more T1 specific details to install. To be on the safe side I'm going to leave that base plate bolted up until the tunnel is welded to the floor to ensure the walls don't warp or move during the rest of the required welding. Should be wrapping up tunnel housing repairs tomorrow. Thanks for looking! Justin

[JTR70]

6/30/14

Wrapping the last of the T1 conversion details

T2 access covers went to this centralized base hook to secure the bottom of the cover to the tunnel. Early T1 covers are identical but had tabs on each side for a set screw.

The T2 tunnel still shows the holes being punched for T1 tab screws but were without a thread plate. T1 tunnel section pictured below shows the thread-plates that need to be added.

Last detail is to fabricate a new T1 mount plate for the reverse light switch. Luckily I had the correct 4mm tap on hand to thread the holes.

This 2 inch strap section I had on hand was the perfect width and just needed to be cut to length. I really "eeked-by" today on tools and material.

Basic part. Its a touch thicker than the original but I'd rather have it thicker than thinner. Its only welded at the top so there is a lot of leverage when the shifter works against it to depress the switch. Took a while to bore that large hole through there too.

Threading the holes.

All set. The hole lightens it but is also necessary for the wires to pass through.

Ready to weld on tomorrow. T1 conversion chores complete. Thanks for looking! Justin

[Phil Planck]

Justin
Great attention to detail. Nice.

Phil

[JTR70]

Thanks a lot Phil!

7/1/14
Tunnel housing repair and conversion complete.

What we began with.

A lot of loose ends that needed tying up for sure.

I made it my mission today to take care of these little PIA welding and grinding duties and have a fully finished housing that is now ready to go into the frame.



Onto the next the deal. Thanks for reading this! Justin

[Carrera_The_Kid]

way cool Justin, now thats a transformation!

[roy mawbey]

Amazing!!!

Roy

[JTR70]

Thanks a lot Joris and Roy! It was really good to get that repair in the finished column! Thanks again! Justin

7/2/14
Tunnel conduits and fittings next.

Began the conduit repairs today by planning and harvesting the original E-brake fittings from the old wall section.

First one free and now ready to grind down what's left of the old weld shoulder.

Initial holes where drilled in the new wall then it was flared outward at an angle with some heat and my trusty cresent wrench. This tapered handle has come in handy for this sort of task more than a few times.

Test fit. This side all but ready to be welded.

Both sides all teed-up for final install and welding. These fittings will both need to be fully welded to the new conduits leads before they can be welded to the chassis. Working on that next. Thanks for looking! Justin

[Trevor]

Nice job with the tunnel repair Justin. I was at Jack's today and were talking about what a bummer it is shifting into 3rd on a Pre A and T1. Knuckles meet the dashboard. One option is to use a short shift extension, like in the picture (believed to be factory - no welding). However, then it won't hit the reverse switch. Since you're in the welding stage, one option might be to move the bracket for the switch lower in tunnel. Another might be to split the difference between the lower position on the shift rod and the original, which I think is what Jack did on Craig's Speedster. Food for thought...

[John Pierce]

Justin,

Things are looking great. I was going to ask how you were going to make the flare, but you nicely explained it and showed it in pictures. Very cool technique! I see that flaring tools are quite $$. What color is the metal heated to?


This is the driver's side battery box rear wall on my T-6. The replacement panel does not have flared holes like the original, but only embossments. Don't know whether it's worth it to buy a flaring tool or leave well enough alone.

JP

[Phil Planck]

John - Buy an old Crescent wrench like Justin's. That worked out pretty slick.
Trevor - I never considered shifting my PreA into 3rd a bummer for the last 30 years. But, it's the only 356 I have ever driven except for Foamcar for about 1 month. I have never hit the dash with my hand on top of the knob. Guess it is all what you get used to. One of the "features" of driving a PreA. Maybe it is because I am tall and have the seat all the way back. That along with my wingspan being greater than my height(36" sleeve) might make it seem normal to me.
Phil

[Jack Staggs]

As Jack mentioned earlier the T2 shifter and heat controller unit need be switched to be correct for T1. Ergonomically a mistake ...

It's not really an issue of hitting the dash, as there is adequate clearance, as it is a reach problem. In a T1/T0, in stock configuration, most people have to lean forward off the seat back to engage the long reach to third gear. I know that I do. If the car were to have competition style 4 point belts, it would be just out of reach, hence Justin's comment. There is very little adjustment to the angle of the shifter, so short shift kits are offered by some suppliers as a solution. The problem with these aftermarket add on kits is that reverse lights often do not work, and tunnel mats don't fit right. The shifter that Trevor posted is a non modified factory Porsche part, so it appears the they were aware of shifting difficulties.
PS: Craig did his mod on his own. I think I made the reverse switch work.

[356JAGER]

Jack,
Any chance of reshaping the bend of the shift lever to compensate, or
would that create interference problems in the 2 4 positions ?

[Jack Staggs]

I thought quite a bit about re-bending, extensions, but issues would arise if the seat were moved even slightly forward to accommodate a short person. 519/644 transmissions require appox 75 lbs force to overcome the thick syncros, while 716/741 only take appox 18 lbs, so, like everything in life, there is a trade off.

[JTR70]

Jack and Trevor, Thanks for the heads up and details on the short shifter kits benefits and pitfalls. I can remember my father shifting our old coupe and watching his hand travel just under the radio hole to grab third gear. A T2 ashtray would never work for a T1. I'll go into it later but the plan for my coupe is a 901 converted to swing-axle along with a custom fabricated shifter base and tower that will mount to the existing T1 shifter and heater tabs requiring no modification to the tunnel. The ultimate position of the shifter will be at the far end of the u-shaped opening and will end up being closer to the driver than a T2 position. I go into all of that in other thread once I get there.

Thanks John! Those dies would be nice to have on hand but you could get by with a tapered shank like my wrench has or even a socket would suffice. Starting with a 3/8 hole to ensure a good shoulder would form once opened up to size I heated the metal up to a nice orange glow. It took me about 4-5 cycles of heat, hammering it in with a dead-blow hammer and twisting and working it. I probably could of got it in 2-3 cycles if I wasn't on my own but as you know you lose precious time and heat putting the torch down and taking up the wrench and hammer to strike it.

Most of my flares have been made with a "female" backing as pictured above. Didn't have that luxury on this last go round but it was so close to the bend and tunnel housing that there was plenty of support.
As for the part you have pictured I think you could easily find something with a close ID and one with a close OD to flange out those embossments once you remove the centers with a hole-saw.
Justin

[JTR70]

7/3/14
A-pillar prep for Speedster windshield post mounts.

Didn't make it by the supply house for the tunnel conduit tubing so I spent todays session prepping the left windshield post for the eventual speedster conversion.

Had this area been solid and dry I would have spliced in the recess cup and Speedster post mount into the existing sheet metal. However, the rust holes toward the bottom of the mount are a very bad sign and its structural integrity is very questionable.

melting the remaining bit of solder off to expose the joint for the forward closing panel up and over the hinge mount. To get a clean shot to work on this I find it necessary to remove part of this panel just at the hinge where it bends around.

lower seal trough overlaps this panel so it too will have to removed to make the repair. As you can see the upper closing wall is being peeled off.

Upper closing wall now removed and exposing what I already assumed might be there considering what I've been through so far with this frame. Why change now..

outer face plate with its internal reinforcement trough being peeled away here.

A nice thick cache of rust scale was of course at the bottom.

A few remnant strips of metal to go but its about down to bare bones.

Heres a couple of shots of the mount I fabricated and installed almost 14 years ago in my coupster project. Looking at it now with 14 more years of experience there are several things I'd change and improve upon. Once I go back to work on this car I most certainly will.
As the windshield frame is the crowning jewel of this conversion these mounts and their placement is THE most critical detail to get correct both in their angle and levelness of support. If these are out just a fraction the result will be a cracked windshield once you begin sinching down the bolts or shortly there after. I spent countless hours and many a tack weld before I knew for sure I had both sides dialed in correctly. Since I'll be replacing the dash and cowl it will all of course have to be checked for consistent support along the base of the windshield.

Most of the improvements will be in here and never seen but I'll feel better about it.

A detail that escaped me until I worked on 83142 is this internal reinforcement plate which houses over the cup recess. Needless I've learned a few more details over the last several years all of which I'll apply to this car as well as my own once I get that damn coupe done.

Another thought that came to mind today was adding in a gusset represented by the screw driver which would run from the hinge box to the eventual closing reinforcement panel. Not original but wont be seen and it will add more triangulated strength to the pillar/mount and in turn reduces the lever arm up at the top of this eventual post mount. Life's about the leverage, right. Thanks for reading this! Justin