SC Coupe Restoration

[tperazzo]

In preparation for future lead work I decided that I better check under some existing lead in the A pillar.

It was suspect because I think I saw bulge that didn't belong. Well, its a good thing I checked because there was lots of rust underneath. And thought I was done with rust repair, but now I'm knee deep in it again.






Probably several days needed to fix this one.
Cheers,
Tom

[JTR70]

A bummer! But sadly par for the course and not surprising considering the make and model of car your working on; at least you caught it now.

[Trevor]

Hopefully my welding is good enough for the Boy Scouts of America, because I volunteered to be a merit badge counselor for welding. My son is now a first year boy scout, so we'll see if any kids are interested in welding.

I'm sure your welding is. I've let my son practice a little with me. Good helmets and some gloves are a must, just in case they accidentally touch the metal.

[DG58INNM]

"gloves are a must, just in case they accidentally touch the metal"


But that's how you learn not to touch the metal

[tperazzo]

Further destruction shot below. I may have cut more than I needed to , but I needed to look given how bad the other side was. The drivers side had the entire pillar replaced.


Already started putting new metal back in.

Thanks,
Tom

[merbesfield]

Tom, would you mind posting the dimensions of the Octogon cart you are using? Thanks

[tperazzo]

Tom, would you mind posting the dimensions of the Octogon cart you are using? Thanks

Sure...there are two pages in the link below:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9i4R-oybcZkeXVpN0t1UHQ2eUE/edit?usp=sharing

My design differs from the original Emory rack for a couple reasons. 1) Its faster to cut all the tubing with the same cut angle 2) my garage ceiling height is low, so I would have struggled to rotate inside.

The disadvantages are that you can't open the hood all the way for the Porsche latches to work. There is plenty of height to access the hinges etc.

Also use the workshop manual dimensions for the rear hoop distance instead of mine. I think my measurements are off by a few millimeters.

If you like it, you owe me a beer, if not don't sue me. Use at your own risk, etc...

Enjoy,
Tom

[tperazzo]

Ok, finally finished the ugly repair to the windshield post.

The factory included a strengthening U channel to the flat portion that faces the door opening. See twisted part damaged during removal pictured next to new ones.




I reproduced mine to be longer so that it extended further up into the pillar for extra strength


Another triangular box section was added to the upper half to further increase strength. Just for good measure

Here's the outer most piece homemade.





Welded at the seal edge and gutter edge



Instead of crimping the gutter, I just edge welded the sandwiched pieces together.


Tiny welds for you Justin! This pic is looking down the gutter channel. Some easy straightening to do after the heat input.

[tperazzo]

Continued...


Some extra welding shown where the triangular embossed plate near the hinge meets the door cavity. This was leaded over from the factory and I will lead this area too, but the lap joint is completely sealed with a weld bead to prevent contamination during leading.





The channel will get filled with some lead as the factory did to narrow the channel as it gets closer to the fender.

My lead supplies have arrived, so I'm going to give it a whirl next week.

Thanks for following this long two part post.
Tom

[JTR70]

Great final result on that repair Tom! I like the idea of extending the reinforcement channel just a little bit further. Everything closed up really nice thanks to those tiny welds, I hope to be laying them down like you one day here soon! Glad your lead tinning supplies made it. I think you'll find it kind of fun and a nice diversion from the standard rust repair chores. Keep us posted on how you're getting on with it. Justin

[tperazzo]

Got started with the lead filler. It took awhile for me to get the tinning method down, but I think I'm good to go. I tested the adhesion and it seems okay. The adhesion is really sensitive to how clean the metal is, so every weld and nook and cranny had to be really clean. Here is a shot of the pillar tinned.



This was after I washed it with baking soda which took some of the shine away.

Globing it on isn't very precise, but not as hard as I expected.






Filed and quick sand.



I left the edge where it meets up to the door a little high, so I have room to remove more to fit the door best.




All in all I hope everything is right, I will be monitoring this area for lifting or anything else strange that might happen. Please let me know if anyone wants more detail.
Thanks
Tom

[Phil Planck]

Tom
Great job for you first attempt. Looks like it came out pretty slick. Thanks for posting.

Phil

[JTR70]

You're a natural at it Tom! Nicely done!

[John Pierce]

Tom,
Are you using real lead or the pseudo-lead that's Eastwood sells? Either way it looks good. What files are using to get into the narrow areas?

[tperazzo]

Thanks guys! I'm using lead-free solder from Johnson, ha ha lead-free lead is like ordering a cheese burger without the cheese.

The material is fairly soft, so I used a few different sizes of tapered and round files. In the nook area, I used a rotary teardrop file on my dremel.

I will get lots more practice soldering around doors and hood. Stay tuned.
Thanks,
Tom