Coupe into Speedster Conversion

[JOP]

I managed to fit 6,5" rim and 195 wide back in the 90' with slightly modified arcs as well.....

You could always play litle with the center of the rim...by moving it inside the ring and ofcourse reweld it in its new position

Nice that you listen to the "stone aged guys" it will save you some tears in the looong run

By the way have you had a meeting with your "publisher" yet

Keep showing your "book" material 4 us

Cheerio
JOP

[Impi]

Hi Justin could you please take a measurement on the cradle to body mounts (i refer to pic 5447)
I need the distance between a line drawn through the cradle mounting bolts and another line drawn through the top engine mount bolt holes on the gearbox. From the picture it looks to be less than 30mm
I need this to verify a distance on my chassis
thanks Armand

[Jack Staggs]

Justin, let those axles hang down a few more inches, then check clearances. They will get quite a bit tighter.

[JTR70]

Hey Per, I've heard claims of 7 inch wide rims fitting in the back if the backspacing is dialed in though I cannot confirm that personally.( Not Pre-A's though) Yes, it would be foolishly arrogant of me not to take the advice of these guys. I would only be rediscovering the pit falls they figured out decades before I was even involved with these cars.

Hi Armand if I understood your request correctly this is the distance you needed confirmed?

Coming in right at about 15mm.

Please keep in mind that the mounts are brand new and the gearbox is completely empty so old mounts with a loaded box will certainly create more distance. I hope this was of some use.

Jack, as I cycled the suspension through on the first mock up I didn't note any clearance issues but I didn't get any shots of the edge of the tire at the apex of the suspension swing either so I set it up once more.

Here it is set at its farthest sweep before the edge of the tire begins tucking inward.

I can comfortably get the thickness of two paint sticks in there.

By the "writing on the wall" this lip began at 10 1/2 from the frame. With the current clearance displayed its back to 10 even. I don't want the fender to overpower a more stock tire size so I'm thinking I'll try and dial it back to 9 1/2- 9 3/4. However it all depends on what the tail skin is going to allow. I at least now know for sure that there is clearance and a target to come back 1/4 to a 1/2 inch safely.
Jack, thanks again for the suggestion because I would not have done it otherwise. Its answered a lot of questions.
Justin

[JOP]

Armand,
That nicely milimeter distance Justin gave you will diff a couple of mm
Depending on brand of gearbox rubber/ renovation.
Also old oilsoaked will get you down a bit.
Plus you need to strap your engine in as well
Atleast you have something to work with.
/JOP

Oups, I wrote this before our "Ruler" made changes to his answer of having new mounts

[Impi]

Thanks this is just what I needed
Armand

[roy mawbey]

Out of interest I measured the distance from rear tyre to fender and correct, the right side is 10mm smaller on the right side of my still original body.

Of course with standard tyres it makes it impossible really to see a difference. Never knew that info though

Roy

[JTR70]

You have to be proud of me Per, I used the metric side of that ruler.

More confirmation Roy, Thanks!

5/31/16
Right side fender clearance with wheels.

I'm opposite the factory findings; the right side is way wider than the left.

Based on my initial measurements I knew it was wide but I didn't think it was this far.

Even swung way clear of the fat boy.

Initially I was shooting for the fender braces to match in length but I'll have to shorten this one a few MM's more to allow the fender to move in where it needs to be.

This now explains why I was getting such a good fit with the tail last week. It also sends a chill as once the fender is back in closer where it belongs this joint is going to be as bad as the left side was. I'm thinking all three panels will have to be altered where they meet. I'll know once I get the right fender set.


After that I was very curious as to overall width of the tail. With it on the ground now was a perfect time to get a good look at it with an original bumper as Tom mentioned earlier.

Much to my disappointment it seems to fit against the bumper pretty well. I was disappointed in that the answer isn't jumping out at me at the moment.

Pretty nice on this side as well.

It looks pretty good. tail light hole sighting about equal to the bumperets. Cutting it in half and narrowing it is not going to be the answer. Besides I didn't want to get into the decklid opening anyway.


May cut here and tighten it.

May cut it here and relax it.

Should become clearer once I get that right fender set.
Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JOP]

Dear His Highness the "Ruler"

I just knew that Stanley & You would get along very well

Your Foreign Disciple of the Millimetre

[JTR70]

6/4/16

Right fender fitment rethink.

Had to reduce the width at the back corner and relax some crown in the fender profile but of course it fought.

The brace was shortened a few mm's now bringing the corner even with the other side. One problem solved.

To relax the crown the fender was pushed in some to match the left this in turn made it longer throwing off my wired edge alignment.

It was time to change the approach. I initially concerned myself with establishing the upper edge first but this fitment was throwing off the rest of the fender and inhibiting the changes I was now trying to make. I unhooked it here and left it loose to allow the needed changes.

My prime objective now was to get the width and contour to match the left as closely as possible and to also get the fender openings to match. I'd worry about the edges of the fender after the fact.

Before the session was over I really had the opening dialed in to my liking.

Within 5mm difference at its very worst.

Initially it was concerning as to how I was going to get this side to lay down and match the left but once I backed it up and loosened all that I had done previously the path forward soon revealed itself. What I like most now is that the fender wells are almost an exact match. I thought as long as I have this I'll deal with whatever adjustments I have to make at the edges of the fender. Adjustments at the fenders edge next.
Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JTR70]

6/5/16

required changes at the edges of the fender.

With the fender in its basic and final position my flanged leading edge fitment with the striker became a whole lot worse.

A pie cut extension as originally thought was no longer going to do it. It now required a full filler strip top to bottom. Took the plunge and cut the entire run free.

Going to need about a 1/4 inch filler section to get the flange to seat over the striker post. That's also taking into account the paint stick thickness+ I need for a door gap.

I needed the very cap to stay where it was so I cut the tacks free allowing it to shift.

shifted a quarter inch corresponding with the rest of the changes in this area.

Scary and a PIA but no way around it. Once the wheel opening was dialed in it was just short up front. It was showing me that at the very beginning anyway.

Filler strip and reattachment of this forward upper corner next.
Thanks for looking!
Justin

[Don C]

Justin you have the patience of Job! Hope the doc appreciates your tenacity!

[JTR70]

Thank you Don! I think he basically understands all that is involved and required so far but it is still very hard to relay fully how tedious it all is unless actually here experiencing it for yourself. Thanks again!
Justin

6/6/16
Fender Filler...

Filler strip tacked to flange.

Fender remounted(again) with door gap established so I can scribe in the final cut line.

excess removed and final strip thickness making up about a 17mm shortfall.

Tacked to fender and working my way upward. Hardest part was getting it flush to lay down a tack-weld. triple checking with the template again.

As I make my way up a decision had to made as to how much I was going to swing the fender out for stock width and a general contoured shape that "looked right" and closely matched the other side. It of course was a bit of give and take. I'll get into that on the next one.

Closer...ever so slowly.
Thanks for stopping by!

[roy mawbey]

Justin,

Got to say ' well done' for making those decisions on cutting. As said many times, it looks quite easy when you look at the photo's but to actually do it, is a far different matter. As said above, you have patience, some would have thrown a hammer at it. Its really a most demanding job to get right.

Also don't think I have missed seeing some of your bodywork clamps yet again I say without a varied selection of clamps forget trying to do this work. One day you must lay out all these clamps on the floor and take a photo of them just for me and those who might want to follow in your footsteps.

Keep it up Justin,

Roy

[ukinusa]

As hard as it is cut away and start over I find this current problem incredibly insightful about the use of strips and pie pieces etc - thinking about doing something and seeing it done are very different. One favor though and not sure how you can do this as it will need three arms...you show a "curl" of steel being cut away in the picture..:excess removed and final strip thickness making up about a 17mm shortfall., is that trim cut "just" made with good quality hand cutters or ?
Thanks as ever ...