Im back,,,,,,,,,My Outlaw Build

[Restomod]

OFFFFFFF!!!




ON


Glad I didnt cut off the original gutter at the front of the hood opening as the new one is not even close.
Looks like I will have to do some extra work fitting it around the old one.

[JTR70]

Looking good Brock! Smart saving the trough; you know very well that the repro stuff never fits like its supposed to.

[roy mawbey]

Very sensible Brock keeping the gutter. All these ' tricks ' by guys like you and Justin etc, are very valuable to guys that don't know them. I guess the motto is: think about it, think about it and then start cutting!

Like your thread,

Roy

[Restomod]

Thanks guys but I cant take credit for being smart. It was pure accidental, my plan was to grind the spot welds off after the rest was out of the way. When I put the new one up I saw it was way off.
Thanks for looking!

[merbesfield]

[quote="Restomod" post=8791]Thanks guys but I cant take credit for being smart. It was pure accidental, my plan was to grind the spot welds off after the rest was out of the way. When I put the new one up I saw it was way off.
Thanks for looking!

Probably saved yourself tons of time, but what are you ideas about how to treat up under the lip after you stitch it back together? I always worry about rust from the backside of unprotected and undressed welds. Maybe hose it down w some body cavity wax?

[Restomod]

I may try the sprayer Eastwood sells that is for reaching up inside frame rails.

[merbesfield]

[quote="JTR70" post=6875]Sounds killer! I see that you have a donor nose on your blasting cabinet back there. Has anyone put a Subaru motor into a real 356 before? I've never seen a picture of one. Good choice on the trans. that was my initial plan for my car.

Just a quick tip: for the flash rust on the body head down to your local home improvement center and pick up a couple gallons of muratic acid pictured above. Just brush it on and should almost instantly clean the metal. Once done make sure you wash it all off ( prefer soapy water then a final rinse)and that it is 100% neutralized otherwise it will create more rust itself. Towl dry the area then blow it dry with an air chuck. The metal may "flash rust" yellow/gold in places afterward but a scotch brite pad quickly cleans that up before primer. I love this stuff and have used since the beginning. I bathe small crusty parts, hardware, brackets, bolts you name it and all done passively while I work on other things. Hope this helps. Justin

Justin, have you ever had the HC acid cause more rust in the shop? I used some on the inside of a gas tank and then all the sudden I am plagued with flash rust all over cars and stuff in the shop. Acid was done out front and the poured out and flushed but?

Brock, is there a link to your other car before this one?

[Restomod]

Mark, the 63 I started a few years ago I never had a build thread anywhere. The last 63 and the 65 I just sold not to long ago I never started on at all. I do have pics of them all if that will help.
I also have some pics of my 69 Fastback and my 34 Ford truck I was going to post in the American Graf. thread soon.

[JTR70]

Hey Mark,

Sorry I did not warn you about the fumes. Yes, it will absolutely cause everything to flash rust and the fumes build quickly. In your case it sounds like they were carried back into the shop on a breeze. I always use this stuff outdoors and never inside. All washing and clean up is also done out of the shop which it sounds like you did as well. Its a double edge sword; it will clean rust beautifully but will also create it if not completely neutralized by thorough bath; and then there is the fumes. I'm sorry again for failing to mention that! Did you at least get the tank all clean?

Hey Brock, Love to see your non-356 projects! If your game a build post on each would be welcome reading. If time permits of course, I know your busy building this monster.
Justin

[Trevor]

Mark or Justin (I'm not sure who asked, because the quotes are a little confusing to me).

Yes on the Subi in a 356, check this link: http://www.kustomcoachwerks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7480&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

The owner & builder asks that pics not be re-posted on other sites, so I've respected his wish and just put a link to it.

Restomod,

For the surface rust, please use this stuff from TM Technologies: https://www.tinmantech.com/html/must_for_rust_remover_inhibi.php



I have used it on parts that surfaced rusted and it takes the rust off no problem and also protects the metal from future rust. I can fully say, it works! If you have bare metal that has just been sanded or blasted, use CRC 3-36. Steve Hogue turned me on to the CRC 3-36 and it works flawlessly, zero rust. Takes about 6 cans to do a whole 356. When you want to paint, use Acetone to remove the CRC 3-36.

Lastly, on the lower door seam... I am very concerned about it showing once the car is painted. If you aren't able to weld it without distorting (no shame) please consider taking it to a shop that has a competent TIG welder to do the job. You can save money by doing all the fitting and make sure the two pieces of metal touch each other with no gap to save the welder time (and you money). I'm not trying to talk smack about using a panel bond, I'd just hate for you to have to re-do metal work once the car is in paint.

[JTR70]

Thanks for the links Trevor! Rusty Tubs had posted some shots of this car on page one of this thread. He's good friends with him and has helped him with it. Thanks for sharing Steve's recomendation! Will defintely look into it. (email sent)
Justin

[Manolin]

Waxoil and phosphoric acid during anti rust phase. OSPHO is the brand in the USA. That muriatic acid is toxic, dangerous, and I equate that archaic method to using lead on cars. Technology has advanced, and some of the latest products mentioned below look great. Brock is using some of today's technology. Mercedes and others use panel bond for years and the cars don't come apart.
No more horse and buggy.

[Restomod]

Here is the nose after a light spray of Ospho

(no telling how many gallons of this stuff I used!) It will not re-flash unless it gets washed completely off. I have not tried the CRC but I have used Gibbs brand, it will also wipe clean when ready for paint. Several high end metal guys from over on the HAMB use it and thats where I found it.

The SEM Metalbond while not for structural areas is super strong. I used it to glue a Boxster Carrera GT replica together and sold it to a local guy who used it HARD and to my knowlage it never cracked.
Welding is best but I damn near ruined a 356 door taking my time and I did not want to repeat the horror............

Justin both the 69 and the 34 are long gone no build threads on them LOL! But I will get some pics of them up.

Thanks everyone!!!!

[merbesfield]

Do u use the aerosol can or buy it by the gallon? Gibbs that is.

[Restomod]

Spray can