Im back,,,,,,,,,My Outlaw Build

[roy mawbey]

Nice bit of welding there on that panel. I know thats not so easy to do.

Pleasing when it goes well isn't it.

Roy

[Restomod]

Thanks Roy ,yeah it is. Just trying to get into it again and better at it.

[Restomod]

Took a couple days off of the grinding. The dust and allergies were killing my contacts. The right fender was a MESS, it was overlapped and has some brass in it... still working on it. The Scooby adapter and flywheel are on with a new rear main seal. Stainless steel header came in, looks like it will flip around no problem. Un-equal length to get that nice RUP RUP RUP sound!

[JTR70]

Looking good Brock! The motor is staging up nice. That is a very pretty exhaust system! Are you running a muffler or a stinger pipe?
Nothing worse than cleaning up shoty repair work. Keep on it, its taking shape. Thanks for the update! Justin

[Manolin]

Nice exhaust. Will the engine be bench tested prior to install? Anxious to see it all together!

[merbesfield]

Brock,looks like an awesome project. I have a 57 that I have been know to work on every now and then. Keep on posting. Thanks, Mark

[Restomod]

Justing Im not sure just yet how the rest of the exaust will go the header was to good a deal to pass on ($116 to the door!) If I get them the Crower cams wont be so cheap ($620!)

Manolin ,thanks! Yeah as soon as I get the trans (being built) and starter I am starting it in the floor.

Thanks Mark, you have a build thread going?

[Restomod]

Got the doors set on to check the gaps, the driver has a little more gap than the pass side. The hood gaps set nice and I got a couple of the dents out of the front of it.

[JTR70]

Hood and door basic fitment look pretty good Brock. Maybe its just the photo but it looks like the pinch seam on the leading edge of your front fender needs to be squeezed tighter. It seems too fat and relaxed. Are you getting ready to cut the nose off? Thanks for the update! Justin

[Restomod]

Yes they are kinda thick, the metal the patch is made from is rather heavy so they will never be very crisp.
Started working on the very badly kinked, bent and craked hood. Had to break out the stud welder and the shrinking disc for this. Still have more to do to it. The nose will be the last thing to get done before smoothing it all out.

[JTR70]

oooh, a kinked hood is one common 356 repair I have not yet had to deal with. A very time consuming fix I'm sure;Looks like your getting her ironed though. Yes, understood some of those rust repair panels have been known to be a bit thicker just keep it in the back of your mind that the extra thickness is going to mess with you once you begin establishing your final gaps and will limit your ability to get a tight line. Glad to see your still making progress on it! Justin

[Restomod]

The trans showed up,looks great. Waiting on the starter adapter.

Started on the doors, the one that is ground down to metal was covered (the entire area) by 1/4-3/8 of filler all to cover the 1/4 deep 5" long scrape at the bottom!

[JTR70]

Looking good Brock! A very smart decision to keep the repair seam as low as possible on the door skin. This will greatly reduce the amount of heat distortion. Nice job! We made that mistake in the '80's.

Oh, you're runnning an IRS trans. What arms are you going to use? SWB 911? VW?
Justin

[Restomod]

I found that out to on my first 356 the hard way! I wanted to use 911 arms but then found out they are to long, SWB arms are like hens teeth so maybe some braced up VW arms may be ok.

[merbesfield]

The trans showed up,looks great. Waiting on the starter adapter.

Started on the doors, the one that is ground down to metal was covered (the entire area) by 1/4-3/8 of filler all to cover the 1/4 deep 5" long scrape at the bottom!

Try getting some cooling Gel to spray on the door before you start welding it up. It's exactly what it sounds like. Clear jelly like stuff you spray around the perimeter of you weld, helping to contain the heat. Works well and go slow also helps, but flat areas are a bitch.