57 356 A mild resto

[JTR70]

Nice job spooning that contour in Mark!

Went through the exact same thing on the coupster project. It seems pretty much standard fare with these floors as the embossment just isn't punched in heavy enough there.

Simonsen floors by contrast were much more defined as you can see here.
Keep up the great work!
Justin

[merbesfield]

Front foot well in and floors roughly fitted. Getting there.

[merbesfield]

Next up, these little buggers. Not sure what the whole part is called, but it is the little extension off the edge of inner fender. These were bent by me and then pounded out. I will have to open them up to get them in place and then use the torch to form them around the bottom of the pan. The parts I removed were quite well formed, read "pounded" bye the factory. I left the side of the edge of the pan and inner fender well loose so they can slip in where they are supposed to go. Not sure this makes sense, but hopefully the pics will explain it.

[JTR70]

Looking good Mark! Yes, that's the early T1 versioned reinforcement runner your working on. They went external with it sometime in '57. My photo in that earlier post shows this later external runner. Keep up the great work! Justin

[merbesfield]

Looking good Mark! Yes, that's the early T1 versioned reinforcement runner your working on. They went external with it sometime in '57. My photo in that earlier post shows this later external runner. Keep up the great work! Justin

So it's the old "external reinforcement runner" is it! That's a mouth full. It is fun to be excited again about being in the shop and fabricating. Sometimes it's hard to get through the hard dark jobs we have to do in order to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I am glad we have you, Justin, or torch bearer to help light the way. Thanks also to all the other great contributors out there in space.

[Jonesy_356]

Great photos mate, keep going! There's got to be an end somewhere! What else would you be doing?

thanks for sharing,

Jonesy

[merbesfield]

Great photos mate, keep going! There's got to be an end somewhere! What else would you be doing?

thanks for sharing,

Jonesy

Booze and women, LOL. Tell that to my wife who thinks I spend too much time in the shop!

[JTR70]

So it's the old "external reinforcement runner" is it! That's a mouth full. It is fun to be excited again about being in the shop and fabricating. Sometimes it's hard to get through the hard dark jobs we have to do in order to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I am glad we have you, Justin, or torch bearer to help light the way. Thanks also to all the other great contributors out there in space.

I think was the term used, let me check my parts book again. Thanks for saying so, but I'm in the middle of learning just like you guys. Fortunately we have our resident professionals here to help us all along as we go. keep up the great progress on her Mark!
Justin

[merbesfield]

External reinforcement runner completed.

[merbesfield]

As I move closer to the end goal of installing my pans I started to think about the interior finishes. There has been plenty written about exterior finishes I.e., coating bare metal, SKS Stone Guard etc, but not so much about the interior. Obviously it will get a through painted and seam sealer, but how about Schutz or the Wurth Stone guard on the inside? My car, which was very original had sound deading panels on the sides and I think something on the bottom. It was hard to tell with all the years of gunk and whatever PO had applied to the inner floors over the years. I did find one post where Jim Liberty said he used Zero Rust and Dynamat type product, but no mention of undercoating. I am thinking about this process.

1. Repair all the rust. duh!
2. Use hypodermic needle to inject Zero Rust into joints.
3. Apply Zero Rust or Epoxy Primer over entire floor pan inside and out.
4. Use Seam Sealer (brush-able and tube caulk variety) liberally on all joints and cracks.
5. Tape off areas of high tolerance and screw holes such as seat rails and anywhere something needs to fit tight.
6. Apply liberal amounts of Wurth SKS Stone Guard to inside. (This would be shot in conjunction with underside.
7. After plenty of drying time apply finish coat of a basic semi-gloss flat black for protection and even look.

Does anyone have any issues with what I am proposing? One I have is that the only issue I have with Zero Rust vs. Epoxy primer is that if not fully cured over a long time (how long) it is re activated with the solvents in the brush-able seam sealer. This created a bit of a mess when it happened on my 912 project. But I have done it before w no issues. With he Epoxy, once dry, it's not going anywhere. Just more work with paint prep vs Zero Rust out of can.

[JTR70]

I say go for it if it makes you feel better about your restoration Mark but realistically as long as civilized society holds along with the value of old cars our projects are not going to lead the lives at the mercy of nature as they once did. If you plan driving this car regularly on salt covered roads in winter then I can see maybe doing that. All that sealing has the potential to work against you too as it may create pockets that hold moisture that might find its way deep into the bowls of your frame. I my mind drainage is aces over sealing. Just my 2cents
Justin

[merbesfield]

I say go for it if it makes you feel better about your restoration Mark but realistically as long as civilized society holds along with the value of old cars our projects are not going to lead the lives at the mercy of nature as they once did. If you plan driving this car regularly on salt covered roads in winter then I can see maybe doing that. All that sealing has the potential to work against you too as it may create pockets that hold moisture that might find its way deep into the bowls of your frame. I my mind drainage is aces over sealing. Just my 2cents
Justin

Justin, I'm not sure I am following you. What are you referring to about sealing off? The underside? I was thinking about putting holes in the various cavities to allow water to flow out and Waxoyl type product to be sprayed inside. The seam sealers would only be on the seams to prevent additional moisture from going into the various joints that are rusting as we speak.

[merbesfield]

Work continues on the pans and such. I have been taking my time and trying to "enjoy the journey" vs. getting in a hurry and feeling stressed. I have some questions. I will try to be organized w my questions. Any help is appreciated.

1 My throttle lever looks like it could be bent? Can anyone tell by looking? Seems like the ball should be perpendicular to the rod but it is at a slight angle. Clearly I need a new linkage end and probably also the ball end as well. I see a repair kit is sold. My transmission is a 741.



2 I think this lever is from some other car/transmission. It is loose and slides on stud, and needs spacers or something. Does it get bronze bushings or just spacers. Does not seem like a bushings would fit.



3 Where do I find the little crimps for the new heater cables?



4 What do I use as cushion/guide for the throttle rod where it goes thru the tabs in the tunnel? Where these pieces vinyl or leather? Seems like a piece of Poly or Plastic might be better? Like used in later 911's.



5 Does the accelerator rod have any bend to it? This refers back to question no. 1 because mine had sight bend towards end after exiting the tunnel. Wondering if the bend was due to improper lever angle. Clearly I need a new link end kit.

[merbesfield]

Next question is regarding the wiring harness. Should I pull it out and re sheath it? The cloth covering is very weak. Or is this more work than needed? Not doing a concours resto but do want all mechanicals tended to. Just don't want to cause trouble if not needed or ignore it and regret it later. How hard is it to pull it out and recover it? What is the easiest way? Loosen screws at fuse block and pull from rear? Who sells the fabric sheath if I do need it. And the rubber cover that is at the engine area. Thanks for the help.

[Jack Staggs]

Whoa, Mark that's a lot of questions! Various solutions are available. Which ones are most pertinent to the stage you are at?