58367 The $75 Junkyard Carrera coupe restoration

[merbesfield]

Hi Justin, how many years has your car been off the road? I have never driven a 356, 912, or TLC FJ45LV, all three of which I am currently restoring. Some might think that a bit risky, ie. stupid!

[admin]

Hi Justin, how many years has your car been off the road? I have never driven a 356, 912, or TLC FJ45LV, all three of which I am currently restoring. Some might think that a bit risky, ie. stupid!

Mark , Its no Big deal I've done it more than once and are currently doing the same . The end result was always Great. From a Brit. car, Hot Rod, to Antique Indian and Antique Harley . I just wish I still had them all. Don't worry, good luck , Bruce

[JTR70]

Hey Mark, the car has been off the road since 1990. I drove it for about 100Mi total shortly after it was painted. though it had tons to be sorted out it was a blast to drive! Also just as fun to ride in as a passenger. I have rode in several 356's that my frind here in town has finished up over the years. My dad always said that the 356 was more fun to drive than his 911 even though it did not have the power. I'd have to agree with that. Bruce is right, you have nothing to worry about; you won't be disappointed! Justin

[surfer71]

Too many Marks lol. I remember when I put my 54 up on y
The rotisserie locking in place as it lifted. Jack's on top of spare wheels to gain more jack height lol was touch and go but a fork lift is to easy lol nice one looks good can't wait to see it in paint

[merbesfield]

Just call me MarkE. We used one of my skid steer loaders with a boom pole and some straps. Worked well for the big ass LC but dented the drip rail, errr. Just added it to the list.

[JTR70]

I have had to do similar dicey moves as well without the luxury of a forklift. I would have most certainly had to get creative with that cherry picker I have on hand if the forklift turned out to be unavailable.

Trunk gaps
Now that the car is lower to the ground and the front of the hoist is out of my way I can now really asses my gaps and hood fitment.


Spent this afternoon reinstalling the hood seal and then finally the hood itself. I ran out of time before I could mount the latch base in its final adjusted position.

So far the gaps are just okay with some slight uneveness between each side. I might be forced to lead these gaps like the doors before but I'll wait until its fully latched and adjusted before I make that decision. Shit! remember when I said I'm only a paint job away and no more heat or welding required! Just when I think I'm done. Oh well I'll see tomorrow after I get it locked down into poition. Thanks for stopping by. Justin

[JTR70]

Bottom latch install and final hood gaps


Installed the bottom latch reciever for the final time. Cleaned the release wire and black oxided it. This was one of those fun and rewarding jobs that gave me a small taste of how great life will be after final paint.

Same grease coated treatment as all the rest of my metal to metal bolted joints. Nut plate also coated for extra corrosion resistance.

At long last, mechanism mounted and hooked up for good. The old bends in the wire where a great guide on how it was originally secured. I double checked my workshop manual however.

As a guide I put some grease on the cover shield of the upper catch to determine the most centered and neutral position.

It all lined up and opperated better than I could have imagined.This isn't supposed to happen. Once the hood was slowly lowered past the secondary catch some mild finger tip pressure was all that was required as the latch went "click" making the hood fully engaged. I have witnessed a few resto's where the hood had to dropped almost a foot high to get it to latch. I wanted to make sure this was not the case here before final paint.

[merbesfield]

Bottom latch install and final hood gaps

This repair has been on my list for a while. Somewhere along the way someone could not get into my hood and they pried up the lip. I have the hood lip at least sitting correct but I need more advice. Will be asking questions at some point, soon hopefully.

[JTR70]

Hey Mark, I shortened up that quote on your last post cause it was just an exact repeat of post directly above it. I need to get the Quote window fixed and in black so we can read it. Anyway, sure just let me know how I can help you with your car. I hope it was not pryed too badly. Thanks for everything! Justin


The hood is in its best adjusted and original position. Latches and hinges are 100% set.

The two smaller holes on this hinge were locating holes put there at the factory once the final adjustments were set. As you can see the holes in the hinge and the mount flange line up perfectly meaning this hood is now set in the exact same position as it came new from the factory.

Still happy with the front gap which I leaded back on page 22. The left side is just okay but...

This right side gap is much wider and way too large to leave alone. Nothing has been disturbed or changed so it must have come from the factory with wide but I need to match the other side better and my new door gaps more closely. Gonna have to lead it.

Since I am not punching in the access hole in the hood I wanted to make sure the fin on this gas cap was going to clear. I put some grease on the handle ridge and closed the hood. No transfer! Doesn't touch but its gotta be close! Prepping the right fender for lead now. Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[JTR70]

Trunk gap leadwork 12/18/12


First test section cleaned and ready for tinning acid.

Prepped and wiped with the acid/flux

Back to the old plate barrier again. using this magnetized base to hold the plate in position.

First section now leaded and initially filed. You can really see how wide the gap was to start with.

The rest of the right side run now cleaned and prepped.

Entire right side gap now leaded. It matches the left side so much better now.

Many more hours of filling and shaping before I'm done but it was a good start today. Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin,

Great hood gaps. The barrier plate for the leading works so well. I see you put the rubber hood seal on to get the fitment correct. Did you find a nice new soft seal? When I replaced my original ( I think ) hood seal, I had fitment problems. Like you I used the 5mm diameter? holes in the hood arms to get the original setting but the seal held up the hood in one place. In the end I had to lightly torque
one of the arms and tighten the bolts to get it perfect. Well, not as perfect as yours

Several years later and the new seal flattened in areas so the hood torquing could be released. It is important to get the correct soft seal. I do think the factory probably got all gaps within tolerance but some cars close tolerance thoughout making them stand out.

By the way the battery box area looks very nice painted. Mine is still original but coated in the black stuff. Are you keeping yours plain which looks so nice? If you do, then of course you have to sort the insulation panels on the interior sides of the hood area which are normally black.







Some pics of my battery box area and the sides. I painted the sides of the insulation some years ago but actually should have used a satin type black instead of gloss.

Roy

[JTR70]

Hi Roy!
Thank you! Didn't want to add the lead but I had no choice. I am using sort of a new-old seal. its one I bought new 20 years ago from Stoddard but has been in a box for most of its life. It appears to be one of the thinner ones. It has some tears in it so I'll be putting another new one in. I'll be sure I get a thin one. I have heard all the horror stories of the thicker seals. Yes, just like with your installation eventually after some time and pressure the seal gives up and conforms. Yes, the trunk area is in its final finish. The interior detail shots of your car really drive home the point of how nice it is! Its alright if the black is a little shinnier than it should be your car is beautiful. Cute shot of your grandson, I'll bet he just loves grandpa's old Porsche. Thanks again! Justin

12/19/12
newly leaded gap now fine finished.


Filed and wet sanded the lead back where I needed. I used alot of soapy water to also ensure I get all the tinning acids off before the top coats are added.

All basic building done in lead as before and all final perfection filling will be done with putty and primer. Elevation are good all around. Thankfully no trouble there.

Matches up very well with the left side pictured here. Again will do all the perfecting in thin veniers of plastic filler. Won't take much.
Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[Bill Sargent]

Hi Justin - for that spectacular battery box you need a set of the alloy access covers - the ones that cover the steering box and (if you have them) auto pulse fuel pumps on the carreras. Mike Smith with PR Services in the UK has a very nice reproduction that I used on my project.

[merbesfield]

Gordon, trunk looks so nice. That original Schutz is so hard to get right. I cannot decide wether to reapply or not. Clean metal looks so nice, but all the sides of mine are original so seems I should put the floor back to matching but hard to bring myself to cover clean metal. Guys, thanks for teaching me about the 5mm alignement holes. Did not know that and is so important for me to get my tweaked hood correct. Where do I get the "thin" hood seals?

Jason, that lead is almost as beautiful as all the pics in the Bad Ass cars thread. Really more so. What sort of personal protection do you use when working w lead and do you worry about the resulting dust in your shop after you finish and then move on to other work day to day in your shop? Thanks

[JTR70]

Hi Bill,
That cover is definitely on my to do list and I almost forgot; Thanks for reminding me! With my car being a T-1 the left access cover is non-removable and is spot welded in from the back. T-2 is when they made them both come off. Probably to accomidate removing and the installation of that larger ZF steering box. Lord knows what a job it was getting that box in my car and without that luxury of a removable cover. So I'll only be ordering one alloy cover from PR. Thanks Bill, Like I said before you know where to find all the cool stuff! BTW I think its all for the best that you cannot get your 356 into China. Once your ready to come home I could just see you struggling with the chinese gov't trying to get it back out of the country. Thanks again! Justin

Hey Mark, That is Roy's original trunk. I think Gordons is probably as stripped down as mine is. yes, the little holes in the hinges; just things you pick up as you go. Its only good to you if the hinges and hood/decklid are factory original to the car of course. The hood seal I have which is thin I bought from Stoddard 20 years ago. Not sure if there still the same now. I need a new one and I'll keep you posted on what I find. Thanks!! Its nice to hear you enjoy this thread almost as much as John Paul's girly thread. I guess its all what your in the mood for. On the lead I keep it wet until I can slowly sweep it into a pile. I try everything I can to keep the fine stuff from getting airborn. I'll wash my hands several times throughout the day. Thanks again! I hope your making some progress on your coupe. Justin