58367 The $75 Junkyard Carrera coupe restoration

[JTR70]

Thanks Mark, that is a good description; this area has psyched me out on several occasions!
9/23/13
Right quarter panel pleat detail.

When I addressed this old secondary hammer damage from the 60's I overlooked the lower ridge or pleat detail that had been partially erased.

Once I had smoothed it out as far as I could the detail just escaped me.

Fortunately I noticed it before final paint. I spent the last couple of sessions adding it back in. This detail fades as it rounds the corner but I could not tell by how much. Luckily I had this cherry quarter panel to tell me how far to go.

With the info gained I was able to determine how much I had to peck back in. Above shows the start and stop line and my series of light pecks to bring it back.

As the line progressed some light taps back and a little filing were in order to get it closer. I also picked and filed other areas reducing the need for filler just a bit more.

This is straight primer with no sanding or filler. Close enough! Some very light swatches and some block shaping will take it the rest of the way. In years past I would have mindlessly went for the bondo to create this detail. I have to thank my good friend Jason Bobruk once again for making me a more skilled panel finisher. So Thank you again Jason!

First tracer coat after some initial primer and blocking. A couple of little spots but its almost there.

A lot more finishing back here than I realized of course but its going in the right direction. I'm really happy to have the deck lid all but set. I just have to address the left vertical run but so close. Continuing onto the middle portion of the lower rear skirt.
Thank you for reading this!
Justin

[roy mawbey]

Interesting that lower ridge area, as its hidden mainly by the bumper its not looked at much, when I sprayed my car I know I could or should have spent more time on that area. Its all original and in place but the paint applied could have been heavier, As you say Justin,all these little things that have to be sorted properly. If you hadn't done that reforming it would have got to you sometime later.

Roy

[JTR70]

Thanks Roy, yes it would drove me crazy if a noticed it after final color! I have no doubt that your cars details are perfect down in these areas. Justin

10/10/13
Shrinking disc's

Finally took delivery of those shrinking disc's so I can address that stretched left rear quarter panel. I stepped up and purchased the complete kit from Wolfes metal fabrication.

Began my introduction with this new toy on a piece of metal I stretched out with a teardrop mallet and my shot bag. I wanted to first see with wheel would take down the small sharp domed strikes.

Thought it best to begin with the small wheel while I get to know this system.


This is after several rounds of wheeling and spraying it down with cool water to get the little heads to shrink. Though I am still learning I do like the very gradual control of the shrinking that occurs. The wheel removed very little metal as it works and almost gives the effect of stirring the metal across the surface though I am sure that is an illusion caused by the wheeling marks. I'll keep playing with it; I can only get better... Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[JTR70]

10/13/13

Shrinking begins on this stretched and crowned left rear quarter panel.

With a basic feel and understanding of my new shrinking disc's I got brave enough to take the plunge and begin my attempt to fix this bad metal job from the late 1960's which stretched and crown the wired opening a good half-inch out further than it should have been.

I was most concerned with making this bad thing even worse so did procrastinate for a few sessions. If this all went sideways my plan B was to graft this fender section in from my coupster project. The entire span of this fender is perfect and undamaged so it makes for a good backstop/ confidence booster.

Using landmarks from both sides of the frame I set this corners distance to match the right side. I reinstalled this tube-bracket which was on the car when my father bought it. Fabricated all those years ago by the previous owner after the oil tank and screen was removed.

The wired lip is both crowned and slightly rolled outward. My first order of business once the rear of the fender was stabilized was to take this pair of handbrakes and both push and roll this lip back under. It took several tries in gradual stages.

As this lip relaxed and took a more correct contour a high ridge just above the reach of the jaws began to form which was the remnants of this incorrect profile. You can see it highlighted here with my sanding block.

I began my shrink work on this ridge with the large disc. After several passes (and still a ways to go) this panel was actually beginning to draw back up! This thing really does work. While the smaller disc is great for tiny islands that show up as you block sand this bigger unit really creates uniformity effect that I was looking for. Only tricky thing about working with it is that this large disc really throws out the centrifical force and the grinder wants to gyroscope when not in contact with the panel so you really have to hold onto it! My forearms where beat after this session. It was a start though, More later! Thanks for reading this! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin,

This process has me fascinated. I can understand the fender profile you have to correct. I can understand the 'brake pliers' ( first I have ever seen ) can correct the wired profile which would then leave a 'hump' around the wheel arch maybe 2 inches in from the wired edges BUT.. when you come to use the disc pushing on that just how does it push or shrink that bump in? I can't get it I can see a small raised impression being smoothed but a full half radius thats another thing.

I think I should try googling it??

No wonder you have a back up with the new fender panel Justin. If this process has you wondering it cannot be easy for sure.

Is anyone else on here a little confused about shrinkage of panel work? No wonder people pick up hammers and dollies and get it all wrong!

Roy

[Carrera_The_Kid]

Justin,

Thanks for posting. I have been intrigued by these shrinking discs for quite some time. I have some dents in one of the fenders of our 91 and have been pondering for some time how to fix it. Please keep the pictures and comments coming.

Cheers,

J.

[tperazzo]

Good luck with the shrinking disc. I have a cheap version and it really does work, but slowly in my case.

My understanding of the way it works is this: Friction between the panel and the rotating disc heats only the high areas. These areas get hot enough to turn blue. Then a wet rag rapidly cools these spots thereby shrinking them.

My only beef with this tool is that it is really loud and takes time.

Keep up the good work and let us know more about your success.

[JTR70]

Thank you guys! I hope this sheds some light on it for you Joris. Tom hit it right on the head Roy, these disc's contact the high spots heating them through friction. The surrounding cooler metal corrals the hot area whose molecules are in flux from the heat. Once hot enough cold water is immediately applied drawing the molecules closer together which brings down the swollen area. You're right Tom its a little slow and gradual but I think that is what's desirable for a very controllable change to the surface. Noisy, yes! Which is why I always wear my ear muffs. Which disc do you have Tom the small of the large? I tried the small one first with just okay results but the big one is really were this system shines. If I had only purchased the small one I'd have been a little underwhelmed as you seem to be with it. I do realize however that this is no "magic Bullet" and good results will still very much hinge on competent hammer and dolly work. The disc just get's that last 10% for you from what I can tell with my limited experience. That opinion I'm sure will change as the learning curve progresses. Thanks again! Justin
10/15/13
After this initial round of bending and shrinking to the arch I still found the lip to be about 3/8 of an inch out further than the right side. I figured the best thing to do now would be to both position and stabilize this opening while I messaged the rest of this panel. My hope is that once I'm done bumping and shrinking the damage that the lip will relax into this new/correct contour.

I came up with these welded on positioning struts to both support and hold the lip where I eventually need it.

Determined the width again by using landmarks off of the frame. The right side shows exactly 1 foot at the apex of the well.

Left side position measured off the frame now showing the same width once pushed and welded.

The last section that had to be drawn in was the forward upper corner. This area is the most stretched out and from what I can tell was the epicenter of the old accident. With these in position I now had the final width I need and most importantly the fender is solid and stable while I work on it.

Here's another shot of the really bad area. The secondary "bodyman" damage is what I'm contending with.

This dipshit Violated every rule in the book: they beat it out too far, they hit with a pointed hammer or object(little dark spots)and then took a grinder to the surface! Idiot! If this was done on a more crowned area it would be a lot easier but this is on the flatter more open area so its more difficult to straighten and stabilize. I'm going to try and save it but with my skill level...will just have to see. This is why I keep looking at that other fender laying on the ground.

After several rounds of bumping and disc shrinking it was headed in the right direction. I cut the forward strut to test my theory. It sprang back only very little so this too seems to be panning out.

The crown is most definitely relaxing and the correct contour is coming back. I won't take it all the way back to stock-flat however. I like a little muscle or hint of crown in there so it will match the right side which is the contour and shape I'm after.

The wheel is definitely calming down the surface though. I like that!

These photos don't tell the whole story. Its still wavy and now low in spots so more hammer work and shrinking is still to come but this was a good start. Thanks for reading this! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Tom and Justin,

Thanks a lot Tom for explaining it never crossed my mind about the wet quench. I can visulise it now. You do seem to be winning with your work Justin. Very interesting work indeed. I get the idea too why the larger disc would have more of an effect on the fender.

Roy

[JTR70]

10/20/13
Hammer/dolly and disc shrink work continues...

Ever so slowly unwinding this old damage. I haven't picked up a hammer in several months and like anything else you eventually lose your touch. It took me a couple of sessions to "find the dolly" again and get proficient at planishing. I turned the corner during yesterdays session. This area is still proving to be a challenge though.

I moved to the rear section today for a break and a confidence booster. The damage is not as severe and this area is more crowned making it easier to shape. You can still make out the crease at the upper opening from the original damage all those years ago. The large dark spots are disc shrunk areas where it was beaten out too far.

Continuing on around the corner I removed more old filler and found more long forgotten hammer damage from the past.

Area was lumpy and in general still too low and flat. Raw shrink-hammer and dolly work pictured. Basic shape and levelness getting very close here. The shrink disc was a fantastic addition during this phase. If I beat an area out just a bit high (which happened a lot)the disc would suck it right down beautifully. This tool is a keeper for sure! My thanks again to Phil Planck for turning me onto the disc's.

Area now body filed. To achieve that final bit smoothness and uniformity the area still needs to be filed. Though with the shrinking disc much less filing is required.

Gradually getting rid of the need for as much body filler; a great feeling! I still can't get the surface as perfect as Jason but what is left is so mild that a good coat of primer would almost fill it. I can live with that! More tomorrow! Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin,

That work has transformed that panel. The disc work has really taught me something, never knew anything about shinking discs before, now I can see the benefit of using one for sure.

I might have mentioned before can't remember but when I stripped the paint off the rear panels the area just below the number plate to the bottom of the panel where the formed area is that goes under the car, this was really well leaded by the factory. I had only met lead on the well known area's of the car and was surprised. Tom just mentioned in his thread finding a lot of factory lead where his front cowl met the fender.

It looks like you will have minimum filling to get it perfect. As elsewhere will you lead if necessary?

Well done indeed.

Roy

[JTR70]

Thank you again Roy! The panel is certainly nowhere near perfect but it is a lot better than it was. This panel will only require a skim coat of filler so lead would be far more trouble than its worth. Its funny you should mention that lower rear apron where they were all leaded from the factory due to the heat deformation of the inner reinforcement strut attachment point. I just re-leaded that exact area this afternoon...
10/27/13

Mild heat distortion due to welding that inner strut back on this skin as part of the rear inner bulkhead repair from few years ago. I could not lead it back then due to the rotisserie being in the way. All cleaned and prepped here. Ready for the tinning acid...

Lead applied and spread out with the wooden paddle.

Initial filing. It took a second application and some reheat to get all the big low spots. I was amazed that I lost none of it on the floor.

Done! A few little nicks and nuggies in there but I'll take it the rest of the way with primer and plastic; again won't take much!

[JTR70]

10/27/13
Left rear fender shrink and metal finish complete.

After putting in a solid week on this I have chased it about as far as I can. I was able to get the correct general contour back along with reducing the amount of body filler needed in this area; a win in my book.

Could not be happier with the overall contour and shape of this area. The surface though still a little choppy held the reflection very consistent down the side of the fender. Wire struts have also been removed and the fender remains within a few mm's of the right side on key measurements.

This mid-section just behind the door was the roughest and most hurt by the previous straightening attempt. It was picked, hit with a grinder and still was too low after all of that. I was able to raise and smooth it a bit but I could not really body-file area to get that really uniform surface. I could not risk making it too thin.

More detailed shot of this area. I was to tempted to smooth and file it but its just been through too much at this point. Decided to leave well enough alone.

Again though slightly choppy the overall reflection stayed consistent.

First sealer coat of DP40 applied here.

First tracer coat of silver to see how much more it still needs.

Here is that lower corner I planished and filed earlier. Again no filler yet...just primer and paint here.

Its still gonna need a little help but its closer than I thought I could ever get it considering how badly it had been worked before.

The two tools that really upped my final results...Going back to my roots of slinging mud tomorrow. Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[Carrera_The_Kid]

Looking real nice Justin! Have you ever used a slapper? My metal working friends really like this tool for finishing down panels.

[JTR70]

Thanks a lot Joris! Yes, I have a slapper. Its a great handy alternative when in need.

10/28/13
Initial skim coat applied and leveled out.

Very happy with the small amount of filler left here now making a very consistent reflection over the fender. Some very slight waves left but should be able to chase those out with a good primer coat.

Lots of steel showing with shallow patches of filler. The extra time and effort was well worth it looking at it now...

Second primer coat applied. Repeat tomorrow. Thanks for stopping by! Justin