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I know the owner (maybe by now past owner) of Eastwood Company, Curt Strohacker, since he was a "wagon peddler" of 'old school' things shops like mine still used ('70s>on) like good hammers and files and lead and leading supplies, etc, etc.....his is not the only business now that pros and hobbyists can find the things not in every town or local store.
Here is a link to a good outfit that has the DYI shop or hobbyist "stuff" as in this thread:
http://www.caswellplating.com/
Hello John and Welcome!
Thank you so much for that really nice message! I also greatly appreciate you taking the time to sift through all those pages. Its been a very long, winding and sometimes rough educational road with this car but at its core has always been a labor of love. I would have never made this far or for as long otherwise. I do find myself getting impatient at times but then I think hell, its almost been 30 years off and on with this project what's another month going to matter to re-do this or re-do that. Congratulations on your recent 911 purchase as you've already got a healthy interest in 356's I'm thinking this new acquisition will only intensify it. If and When you're ready to pull the trigger on a 356 all of us here will be more than happy to help you along with it. Thank you again for your note (it made my evening) and thank you for joining us here!
Justin
Thanks for those links Jonesy and Bruce. That Caswell system looks like a much better outfit with probably a more professional end result. I'm going to step up and buy one from them.
10/27/15
The next major items that have to go in next is either the headliner and or the wiring harness. I still have to order both. I purchased a new headliner some time back but was completely unsatisfied with the perforated material they used to make it. It was much too course of a grain and seemed very much like a VW bug headliner material. I'll get hold of autos and see if they'll send me a sample. Bruce, Jack or anyone; who makes an accurate headliner for an A-car these days?
Wiring Harness:
The original harness from this car is actually in decent condition. The cloth covering of course gave up years ago but its intact otherwise. I've been thinking about getting a new from YnZ's since 1989 but just could not decide to throw this one out or use it.
Fuse block is good. God, I remember how sacred I got the first time I started disconnecting the gauges and began pulling out this harness. I thought it was sooo complicated. I've since mapped out a late model chevy engine with EFI swap for my Toyota; this harness is not so intimidating now.
All connectors intact.
I wrapped it in tape and shrink tubing way back when but was recently looking into this new wiring harness weave that simulates the old cloth but I don't know if its worth the effort. I don't know I'll probably just get the new one.
Thanks for stopping by! Justin
Bruce, Jack or anyone; who makes an accurate headliner for an A-car these days? Justin
I found a vendor that offered the diamond patterned needle-punched holes but in the wrong-but-close color. That was after AI's Augustin swore that was no longer available. I planned to color it with a vinyl coating (spray) after it was installed...BUT, the company resent a sample of the same number and it had the square pattern....so since then I have dropped the ball with other distractions but your request has brought it front and center for today.
You want it for a 4-cam car and I need it for a C-2. The typical headliner from AI will work just fine for any 356 that isn't for 'show.' I have also spoken with a VERY interested Tony Garcia at Autobahn, as he would like to add originality into his headliners.
I approached my trimmer of almost 40 years, Jimmy Quartermus of Classic German Interiors, to see if he would enter into a deal in which I would buy a full roll of the correct material and he would cut from his patterns and stitch them for me, but he is too close to retirement to be as interested as he would have been even 20 years ago.
As for wiring....it's old if out of an old car. Set in it's ways, so to speak, and usually corrosion is at the ends of runs and goes fairly far back into it's insulation. I have used harnesses from Wocheslander in Germany, Rhode Island Wiring and Y's-n-Z's and they are all good, but Y's/Z's is probably better because they do more of them and more accurately...but their wait is usually longer than the other two.
If the 356 is going to be or was 12v, the harness is not as important as with a 6v car. The corrosion matters more to electrical performance with a 6v system, but in your case, it's a nice car and all parts of it have to be to the same standard, so I'd recommend a new harness, regardless of voltage.
I save the old harnesses either intact or if butchered previously, in rolls of each color coded wire for repairs of other harnesses. I don't throw away much of anything reusable.
You want it for a 4-cam car and I need it for a C-2. The typical headliner from AI will work just fine for any 356 that isn't for 'show.' I have also spoken with a VERY interested Tony Garcia at Autobahn, as he would like to add originality into his headliners.
Bruce,
Add me to the list of people interested in an authentic headliner. I think interiors and their idiosyncrasies are an often overlooked element even in the high level show cars.
I have been very very disappointed in the interiors turned out by some of the well known names. Common issues seem to be:
- Wrong contours on seats
- Overstuffed seats
- Use of to much foam and old spring sets leading to a totally different feel
- Vinyl and leather materials which are not only off grain wise but are also way to flat and do not have the subtle gloss of the originals
I could go on but it has surprised me that with authenticity being so much focused on interiors seem to be forgotten. What i fear is that the current interiors being turned out by the well known names will be seen as the norm on 30 years time (remember, i am still a young guy)
I can see where materials can be a challenge. However accurately shaped seats and pleads (not those awful straight lines which are way to pronounced) should be possible with care and attention.
Anyway, excuse my rant, back to work
Justin, car looks fantastic! keep up the good work. As with regard to your frustrations, been there done that. It only took three tries before we had the sheet metal on my engine looking decent. Will not even go into all the issues we had getting it in the car and fitting perfectly. These cars can really fight you till the end.
Bruce is correct in my view, the wiring loom is important to be perfect. ( Are you going 12volt, can't remember )
My 6v loom looks almost perfect. The fuses are the original ones I have cleaned once or twice with electrical cleaner in 47 years. All my electrics work but...taking just the long 10mm diameter starter to battery cored wire and the wire from the starter solinoid to the ignition switch what looks fine isn't always the case.
That wire to the ignition at the solinoid end had gone hard for about an inch. I cut it and you can see the green verdigree in the picture below. The main 10mm wire looks fine both ends but I still need to check it for voltage drop. I am not convinced its perfect.
As Bruce says the wires may be okay but under the insulation who knows.
Do you still have the original headlining for comparision to samples?
shows the paper fuse description I think you can buy those?
I would like Bruce suggests buy a new loom. Mine still with original fuses etc. works well but he is right the oxidation of wires under the insulation happens after many years. Attached a photo of the thin wire from starter solinoid to ignition. I ended up going back about and inch to clean copper.
A pic of the bad wire. ( that did not appear on my last post )
Thanks Bruce! How interested is Tony? I'd seriously think about springing for a roll provided we can locate the right stuff. What are you thinking in Europe maybe?
Here's a remnant piece I have which I believe to be the correct perforation pattern? Right?
However from my memory the grain seems way too course. Unfortunately Roy, I wasn't smart enough to keep the original to mine back then. Can you take a few detailed shots of your headliner? I assume its the original.
On the left is a 911 headliner with the square pattern Bruce was describing and the hole pattern is much tighter and more numerous. Its a new one and I can only assume its right for an early 911. I'd have to look at our '66 to be sure. Anyway the grain seems softer and more like how I remember the original in this car being. Some pics of an original sure would help.
Thanks for the advice on the harness you guys. Looking at how nice Roy's is really highlights how tired the one I have is. I'll order a new one. The car will be 12V so I can run the new Electronic Ignition and potentially the EFI, and the fuel pumps etc. Roy, this car originally had a 6V system as well.
Thank you Joris! You make an interesting point on the overlooked original details of an interior.
10/29/15
Block/color sanding continues.
Right fender is officially cut and initially polished up to the A-pillar and around half of the nose.
I'm very slow but am taking extra time and care around all concave surfaces. I had several hangers and the pooling at the hood lip to carefully shape down so it took some time.
Doesn't give the depth or feedback a Black paint job would have but you get the idea. It will get a little better than this once it cures completely and I begin micro finishing it once the car is assembled.
Thanks again guys!
Justin
My headliner is still original factory. I will take a few close up pictures and also measure the distance between the holes and explain if the surface of the material is grained or really just flat. Odd isn't it I take the car out maybe 3 times a week and still after all these years sitting here at my desk, can't say if its grained or not.
That says a lot for taking so much care when restoring. Keep everything but who does, not that many. Bruces recent mail and link about the original speedster that made over $300,000 made me smile. I can see the attraction of original because I was 26 when I bought my car in the 60's everytime I get in it, I am sure it makes me feel young again Of course unless I look in the original mirror
But its that feeling, that keeps me polishing old screw heads, brushing the original carpet, looking through the original windscreen.
I still have in my glove box, an hotel dinner knife, a book of lucky strike matches, and a 1959 Spanish coin left by the last owner? I guess in the 60's. All rubbish but they stay in the box.
But would tired old carpets, and tired everything really, make the car interesting to a normal minded new owner. Nah, it would all be removed I reckon. Would the car command a higher price? Nah, only to another old fool like me!
Your preparation after the spray looks so perfect I smile every time I look at it. Has your dad seen it yet?? Photo of my headlining just to give you an idea, the close ups will follow soon.
I can't offer too much info on the 356 headliner source but if it is anything like my 65 911 we will have trouble finding a source for a correct reproduction. I have posted a detailed analysis of my effort to find a correct headliner for my 65 on another forum and at that time it did not exist. The headliner in my 57 356 has been replaced at one time and they actually used material that was correct (IIRC) for the 65 911, so must have been around then when replaced. Anyhow, under the replacement headliner was bits of the original, which I will try to photo. I will also reach out the the only person I know of that is reproducing the correct version for 69-73 911 headliners, who is out of Europe, and ask if he has a source for 356 material or knows of any. Sorry if this is too long and confusing bc it is.
Mark Erbesfield
57 356A
65 911
68 912
73 911S
66 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ45LV
79 450SL Dad's old car
Roy, Justin posted the better comparison that shows the 'square' pattern (as in the SM ad) is not right for a 356. Probably "good enough" for an average resto but not for a "no excuses" car.
Here is a sample from an original '63 T-6 C-2:
As Justin says, the grain is 'softer'...but truthfully, the punched pattern is what those "in the know" will notice first. The color can be matched and sprayed and that would help disguise the grain's depth.
The sample I got of the correct 'diamond' pattern had smaller punched holes and care would be needed to not spray the color and make the holes look even smaller. That's if I wasn't misled on the first sample/first contact and subsequent same PN but square pattern on the same vinyl on a repeat request.
I have asked vendors about the chance of dusting off the old punches and producing another roll of the diamond pattern...and have been told "Oh, those are all long gone."
Yet, I have heard of a few purists that have found old US domestic vinyl that was re-worked to look like that Porsche used early-on with the 'correct' grain and color and still show the supporting woven texture underneath.
"Where there is a will (and deep enough pockets), there is a way." I'm working on it....but would love to hear how the "high end" shops solve this sort of dilemma when "originality" is involved.
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