1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

Thank you Roy, I'm just glad to be getting close to the end of the chassis repair stage. I have just enough clamps to get me by but I definitely need to expand my collection. Agree, having the right tools makes all the difference in the world. Thanks again! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin the final result looks perfect you should be very pleased indeed ! You have such a good selection of clamps. I know I keep saying it but the importance of good clamping is everything in getting the positions correct. Just like the Cellette the correct tool gives you confidence in knowing its right. And hello John, pleased you have found this thread of Justins so interesting like I have . Without seeing all those thought out procedures there are so many area's that would have had me guessing and scratching my head!!
It all looks so easy but.. take it from me, thats not the case at all!

Roy

[JTR70]

Battery floor fully seated and ready to weld.
I thought it was in for good but seating and clearance issues along the rear wall required another few more tries as it needed to be removed for additional fine trimming. The right side snugged right in after one small retrim but the left side fought a little harder. Eventually got it snugged down to the flanges working from the center outward as always.
As you can see I have very little clearance or access to the rear wall flange while mounted on this bench. The plug welding along this back flange will have to wait until its back on my rotisserie. However I'll have to weld and secure it where I can to ensure this box is sound enough to carry the weight of the car as it will be mounted off of the bumper brackets .
Entire floor was now synched down tight against the flanges; now its ready to weld. Double checking the box for both level and square. Its good to go!
With heavy lifting complete on the battery box I was contemplating the next phase. Heading into the next valley John...
These panels will require a ton of final shaping and adjustment before it is over but they are a nice place to start. The hood will be mounted, adjusted and latched first. The adjusted and set hood will dictate where these new pieces ultimately end up. That process beginning shortly.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Hello John, Thanks for saying so. It is always a great relief to get a certain aspect put to bed, especially one that has required so much prep work but this only lasts for about an evening or so as by then its time to head down into the next valley to begin a new climb. Thank you again for stopping by from time to time, its very much appreciated. Justin

[jjeffries]

Justin, it is of course 100% vicarious and from afar, but this is so deeply satisfying to watch. Also inspiring. Thanks as always for sharing.
And… Hi Roy!

John

[JTR70]

New battery box floor in for good!
Tabs harvested measured for position from the left side and ready for a plug weld. Eventual harness runs downhill to the headlight conduit so I had to remember to angle the tabs otherwise they'd fight and not clamp correctly around the harness in the direction it needs to go.
Getting really close to final install time but I had one more thing on my checklist before I could put it in. I wanted to ensure a good coat of coverage on the underside lip of the VIN panel's leading edge so now was the time while I still had clear shot at it.
Then a quick top coat of semi gloss. Again my main concern was the underside lip at this point.
Now can I put this thing in? Double checked both the chassis and this last section to make sure I had all my "T's crossed". Plug weld holes, clean edges any other loose end that was easier to address before final installation.
It was finally ready...New floor and front wall installed for good. A long road but we now have a battery box again. Synching it into position and begin tack welding next.
Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

The last of the loose ends before the new floor and front wall go in.
Now was the time to finish removing the last of the remains of the original upper closing wall's double lap joint.
A PIA to remove but just about cleaned up here.
Adding back in more of the peripheral parts like these lateral wiring loom tabs.
Harvesting the original tabs from the right side wall. Easy enough to cut some new ones out of scrap but with only one spot weld it was just as easy to reuse these. I'd be adding the hole for a plug weld either way.
Went ahead and took the forward reinforcement bracket while I was at it. The plan was to always to straighten and reuse as well.

[JTR70]

Its been a ton of prep work Roy!

[roy mawbey]

Great Justin, a nice place to be in after doing all that work!!!

Roy

[JTR70]

Rearward wall and ID panel loose ends:
Tube end fused to the wall as originally found. Extra care was taken to make sure this opening was as soft, smooth and blunt as possible as not to cut into or chafe the eventual wiring harness that will exit from it. Right now was definitely the time to address this before the rest of the battery box goes in.
Heading up both sides of the ID panel next to plug weld the old spot welds and finish out these leading edge corners.
Corner and leading edge fused with a gas weld as originally.
Then onto the right side. All that was left was the plug welds.
Welding duties all but completed on these two panels. Just have grind finish that long seam weld at the back where it was cut free and the plug weld heads along the sides. Then the new floor and front closing wall go in for good. Getting close.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Tow hook install complete:
Eventually got all the bolts replaced with a rivet.
Profile fit mimics Roy's original example as best as I could hope for. The key is bowing and resetting that forward mount flange. Being my first tow hook I was on the learning curve but I'll know exactly what to do for the next one
Got a pretty good domed finish on this side but I did slip off the rivet from time to time so not perfect but fully formed and snuggly synched down. This new floor and closing wall are now ready to mount in.
As tempting as adding another new piece is it is much easier and more accessible to finish all the welding and finishing duties on the ID panel and vertical wall first. It all has to be done at some point and I'm all for making the experience as pleasant as possible when I can.
Prepping the forward wiring harness conduit for a seam weld all around the lip as originally done.

[JTR70]

I hear you Roy, just like the jack spurs nobody really uses those either but like the spurs I wanted this accessory to both look right and be functional if ever called upon. Thanks again for your help on this! Justin

[roy mawbey]

It will look perfect Justin and will work perfectly too I think. In the 54 years in my ownership only ever used the tow hook once. It got the car home for me !

Roy

[JTR70]

Rearward rivets now exit out as closely as I could to the original floor example I posted earlier.
Hook stitched back together though gas welded this time for a more OG appearance. Testing refitting the rivets for clearance before final installation.
Begin rivet installation working from the center out.
Trickiest part about this stage is doing it on my own. I had to come up with a stable enough platform to hold my bucking board (pictured in the vice jaws here) while allowing the pan to rest freely as I torch heated the rivet with my lefthand while holding my rivetter in my right then quickly putting the torch down to begin working the rivet before it cooled. A challenge but slowly replacing these bolts as it goes...
Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JTR70]

Tow hook fitment continued:
Flange cut free of the hook for refitting and adjustment. The ears have been bent over at this point for clearance with the center rib.
Hook was then mocked up for an immediate improved fitment. Cutting it apart for readjustment definitely turned the trick and is more confirmation that you just can't assume these repro parts will fit right out of the box correctly.
Getting ready to tack it back together but making sure it was sitting square before I committed .
Tacked back together with the hook moved back a few MM's more so the rear rivets would clear the cross brace on the other side and with an adjusted angle in relation with the flange allowing it to mount flush against floor.
This was the fit and finish I was after and matches up with Roy's confirmation photo as best as I could hope for.