1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

Overall front end confirmation:
The final location of the holes was dictated completely by the mounted and set strut tubes; the only concern was they exit at center as close as possible. After all the smoke cleared this direct comparison with a factory punched hole was best confirmation I could have wished for.
Flipped over to confirm the left side. This now confirmed the overall picture that entire nose itself is in just about the right spot to allow all these other features to align.
This side of the battery box is all new but the tubes mounted position exits at center in a now confirmed factory location.
This side of it is original with the same result. There is very little in the way of adjustment with these tubes so if the horn grille openings where too low or too high the final needed hole position would have much further off to compensate.
I slept so much better knowing that the headlight and grill openings are as close to original position as I could have hoped for and that the choice to cut the nose free from its trough to lower the nose down a few MM more was the right choice. Final mock up here before moving onto breaking the bumper down again for its final body work.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Ready to punch the final holes for the strut tubes.
Some additional fine adjustments as this continues but the bumper is 95% fitted to this cars new nose. I'm confident enough to commit to the final diameter and placement of the strut tubes holes. I kept these pilot holes small for final hole size offset options to keep the tubes exiting out at center as closely as possible as fitting and adjustment went.
The knockout punch die I have on hand is a couple thousands smaller than the original but the rubber seal should squeeze in there with no problem.
Ready to begin cutting. The drawing bolt was too long and the chassis was interfering with it. Fortunately my smaller punch collar stood in as a nice spacer and used up the excess length that was causing the issue. Its always something...
Holes punched and bumper remounted once again. Tubes at least for now are at near center. By the way these end up mounting at two different angles, downward and inward as they go through the holes so anything near center of the hole is a win.
Again, there is still some fine adjustment to come but the tubes are exiting out of the holes as close to center as I could hope for. At least they are at this point. Note the fender brace runners in shadow in the horn grill openings both running as symmetrical side to side as closely as possible. This was not by accident a lot of obsessing and planning as this whole front end has gone back together.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Put in a proper capture nut this time around but first a quick bath in acid to get take care of this residual rust.
Repositioning so it ends up at center of the slotted hole in the iron.
Installed and plug welded from the outside this time for a more original looking attachment.
Had to disturb a little of the previous bodywork performed by someone else but no choice.
Bumper reassembled and mocked up one more time to confirm the fitment. Thankfully its improving with each try.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Bumper work continued:
Moved out to both corners and soldered up the remaining weld scars and irregularities from the previous hole readjustment.
Bumper remounted and almost in its best position here as the right side needs to come up a touch. Its remounted to locate the final needed position of the bumper mount I just removed.
With each repeated install the bumper falls into the needed position a little easier.
Closing in on my best average reveal width between the body and bumper.
With the bumper set I can now I can dial in this inner mount bracket to center in the slotted hole of the bumper iron. It may not be needed but it just gives us more future adjustment options.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Final front bumper work:
This hastily remounted bracket is just out of adjustment range of the slotted hole in the bumper iron with the bumper spaced and mounted where I need it. Cutting it free to move it over into range and reattach it cleanly.
Good thing I did this nut was being held on with only a portion of this tack weld securing it. Cleaning all the old welds next and hammering out some of the old residual damage.
As that went I also finished out the center joint weld, both sides. Prepping for a skim coat of lead solder next.
Solder applied and ready for file shaping.
Filed down into basic shape. There remains some low spots and irregularities but I'll take it the rest of the way with a little plastic filler.
Thanks for looking.
Justin

[JTR70]

Hey Roy, Really sorry to hear that. I hope you're on the mend and that the prognosis is good. I'll send you a PM. Yes the lead remains very stable over time doesn't it. I prefer using as the base then chasing out any remaining irregularities with a little plastic filler. Thanks once again Roy!

[JTR70]

Thanks a lot Scott! yes, it is a Trevor's nose and I am not surprised that there was a discrepancy or two when you began fitting yours. They are hand made so modifications to get them to fit right on a specific car is a given. I'd be more shocked if it slipped right into place out of the box....Something must be wrong here...

[roy mawbey]

Justin, some time since i posted a reply. Not intentional just occupied with some health issues which seem now to be working out okay so far. Your recent wok getting those gaps so nice to look at is amazing. So good to look at Justin. I did a fair amount of leading year years ago and I remember the fact I was so pleased with the results which have lasted over 45 years and never shrunk or moved. The results you are getting are really good and a good idea to have fitted the rubber hood seal and engaged the bonnet lock too.

Keep up this super work !

Roy

[Scott B]

Justin this coming along nicely. It’s tough pulling it all together. You are within striking distance. Is this a Trevor Hammerworks nose? I found the crown on the drivers fender by the headlight was high by about 3/8ths.

[JTR70]

Finishing up the correction around this right side turn.
After a few passes I had enough solder applied then it was back onto shape filing.
By sessions end I had a decent roughed in gap that I could work with and refine further. Most importantly those troublesome shoulders now flow off the edge of the hood. Latched with seal installed.
As the leadwork progressed I jumped to the back corner to continue stitching this cut line back together. I had to exercise extreme patience through here and hold the welding to only a quick tack weld as I jumped to the opposite side while the previous area cooled. I really wanted to just lay down a bead and get it done but I had to keep heat warpage to a minimum. I have access to the back to work and planish this joint which is why this line was chosen but its limited access so I couldn't get crazy.
It paid off in the end with minimal warpage across this joint. Repeating on the right side soon.
Ready to go back and finish up the bumper modifications and final fitment to the car.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Finishing up those lost lines.
High spot of this shoulder tapped back level and in contour with the hoods edge. Cleaned and ready for a finishing coat of solder.
Soldered up the side and file shaving and shaping for a 3mm+ gap.
Basic gap with some room left for further improvement. What's most important here; I've got a latched hood with seal creating a level transition from the edge of the hood onto the body.
Repeating the same process on the right side. Fender side tapped down and the edge of the hood tapped upward where needed to meet in the middle somewhere.
Once it was close then it was onto paddling on the lead solder. In process here.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Took a little break from filing and shaping lead and went back to stitching in this long weld joint.
Back to hood fitment with a small adjustment needed. I ended up turning the plunger in a little more for a tighter latched position to engage the rubber seal a little more. Once I reset that and opened up the leaded gap back to 3mm+ to accommodate this change I lost my matched contour elevation with the fender in through this area.
Same issue over on the right side though this side of the hoods leading edge needs a little tapping upward so not as bad as it appears here.
Wasn't sure how I was going to get this area back in line. First thought was to cut the vertical flange in through the high area there then tap down and reweld. Later figured the best approach was to heat the base of the vertical flange then tap the high spot downward. This did two things, it saved more cutting and rewelding ceremony and this approach tightened up the gap slightly as the flange was heated and heeled over. In process of that here and was working as planned.
Heated, carefully tapped then checked and rechecked with the edge of the latched hood (with seal) as it went. Much improved in this shot with just a little ways more to go.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Opening and shaping the gap. Testing seal engagement against the hood with a piece of paper as a feeler gauge. As it went the hood needed to close down a little tighter so the gap had to be opened up a touch more to compensate as this went.
Initial 3mm+ gap getting real close. I worked my way from center on up over to the left side first.
That really troublesome continuation contour from the hood onto the nose was finally headed in the right direction.
Other than the shape the other critical detail was that the edge of this hood remains thin.
Making my way around the left side first to continue opening and shaping the final gap against this hoods edge.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

First pass of lead solder and initial filing. Ready to begin carving out and shaping the gap.
I'll need the seal installed to dial in the gaps correctly.
Old trusty hole puncher has a nice small diameter die perfect for those little screws. Punching the hole is far easier on the seal than just forcing the screw through it. I've torn few seals that way.
Begin drilling the holes for the seal and positioned based on my original reference car.
Made the joint will end up being positioned between the lower two screws of the right side corner clamp.

Dialing in the gaps with the added tension of the rubber seal next.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Wrapping up the hood alteration:
Flange detail added separately. This shape was far too complex for me to add that in one piece cleanly.
One of several test fits as the welding progressed to make sure it was maintaining the new shape I needed.
All stitched back together and just cleaning up the last of the weld runs.

Reshaping detour completed.
Remounted for another test fit. Ready for skim coat of solder to get that last 5% of the flaws out.

Thanks for looking.