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1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

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  • roy mawbey
    replied
    Justin its so good to have the body on the Cellette to get the datums correct, so difficult if the body was just suspended in air very difficult then to know its all in line. Correct as well for it to look as original as possible. It is true new panels can stand out if they just don't look right. Easy to spot that if you are really into 356 cars. And as these cars are not cheap anymore that affects value. Good bit of work there Justin!

    Roy

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  • JTR70
    replied
    Final prep and ready to weld:
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	113828 Removed one more time to straighten and clean suspension flange. I little lever bar and slide hammer work but it came back out very well.
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	113829 Clamped and set for the final time. 7 inches from the bottom edge of the panel to the cellete plank matches the original side.
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	113830 16 1/2 inches from the beam to the end of the panel matches the left side. All plug welding will be done in here to preserve the original spot weld detail on the outside of the flange. Welding it on now.

    Thanks for looking!

    Justin

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  • JTR70
    replied
    Panel prep:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0020.jpg Views:	0 Size:	225.9 KB ID:	113822 Basic position and now onto fine tuning.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0021.jpg Views:	0 Size:	189.7 KB ID:	113823 One adjustment I wanted to make was to soften this upper bend.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0022.jpg Views:	0 Size:	216.6 KB ID:	113824 Secured to a piece of angle iron with a softer radius and hammer formed to it.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0024.jpg Views:	0 Size:	222.6 KB ID:	113825 Softer turn now matches more closely with the original profile.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0023.jpg Views:	0 Size:	238.0 KB ID:	113826 My main reason for doing this is that the eventual upper closing wall flange will wrap over the top of it and take on its profile shape. If its too tight and crisp (like it was) it just screams "replacement panels" when looking up into the fender well; I've seen it and I don't like it.
    Last edited by JTR70; 03-21-2023, 09:49 PM.

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  • JTR70
    replied
    Fitting and prepping new battery box wall.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0015.jpg Views:	0 Size:	226.7 KB ID:	113816 Panel free and ready to begin fitment.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0016.jpg Views:	0 Size:	221.0 KB ID:	113817 anxious to begin fitting this panel but
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	113818
    Have some remains of both the old upper closing wall flange and original battery box wall to clean out first.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0018.jpg Views:	0 Size:	185.5 KB ID:	113819 Corner cleaned with some flange remains yet to clean above it but will take care of that later.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0019.jpg Views:	0 Size:	213.7 KB ID:	113820 As you can see if your going to install this panel as a full piece it goes back very deep.
    Last edited by JTR70; 03-21-2023, 09:29 PM.

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  • JTR70
    replied
    Prepping new battery box parts:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0013.jpg Views:	0 Size:	222.1 KB ID:	113810 Conduit opening backfilled, redrilled and shouldered for an eventual fusion with the end of the tube as originally done.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0012.jpg Views:	3 Size:	231.8 KB ID:	113811 A few more shrinks added to get it a little better but I've gone as far as I can on this panel for now.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_9665.jpg Views:	3 Size:	222.2 KB ID:	113812 Time to begin getting the new battery box panels that will be used free from the two that will not be used.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_9702.jpg Views:	3 Size:	240.2 KB ID:	113813 Again, the rear panel is the narrow T1 version and will be replaced with a proper T2 version.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0014.jpg Views:	3 Size:	231.0 KB ID:	113814 Taking off the right side now It will be used but I want it free for a clean accurate fit. Spot welds are secure but they do give up much easier than the factory versions which makes disassembly a less painful..
    Last edited by JTR70; 03-21-2023, 09:18 PM.

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