1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

They are tricky at times Roy. If the damage you're after is under a couple of top layers or entombed behind a closing panel then there really is no other way around it unless you're just going to fish plate over the top of it. That of course would be a huge red flag when you go to sell it. Thanks Roy!

[roy mawbey]

Justin, its not until you see the complete strip down of the front body panels do you begin to realise just how its never a quick fix to get perfection on a 64 year old 356. I can understand why you have to give this great thought as proceed. Sure I welded a few bits and pieces on my frontal area but could never have contemplated back then what you are doing now. Its going to look fine justin !

Roy

[JTR70]

Upper portion of the splash pan removed. I decided to make my break along the weld joint of my previous lower patch repair. I knew if I tried removing it all in one piece I'd make a drilled out mess of this lower area as the plug welds are a lot bigger and won't give up without a big fight so I thought it better to leave this sleeping dog lie.
Now I have a clear shot at the remains of this wall and all the rust damage behind it.
The nature of this cars construction with all of its overlapping and intersecting layers along with where the rust and accident damage ended up can constantly take you down avenues you hadn't previously planned on.

Had to take a step back to move forward but looking at it here confirms this was the only way to go for a thorough repair.
And a quick look inside of what will eventually be. Cleaning out the remains of the OG closing wall next.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Prepping for the new right side upper closing wall.
Went back and forth as to whether to do a partial or complete upper wall replacement. Had it not rusted out in the door well I would have left it alone and just did a partial but it is and so is the metal on the other side of this wall. It has to be repaired in here anyway so the best and cleanest approach is to unpeel this onion a little further and get it all in one shot. This would require the removal of the splash pan.
To get access to the top attachment points of it required cutting back into the cowl a little further. Cowl cut back exposing the top of the splash pan here.
I chose this cut line as it gets me the needed access to the pan for both removal and reinstallation. It is also the lowest point in the body contour and will be a much more stable weld joint. As you can see I'll also have access though limited to the backside of the weld joint for planishing.
Top spot weld run free and just about separated from the remains of the original wall.
I was really dreading the double run of spot welds down its face but as I began drilling and peeling from the top it became clear that the inside run of spots where completely detached at this point. The row of spots along the edge also gave up quite easily. Very uncharacteristic of factory spots even when the panels are rusty but hey I'll take the break when I can get it. Detached from the door stopper base and just about ready to remove at this point.

[JTR70]

Not only is the gap on this side irregular but the hood profile still too proud where it had buckled.
This is the under side directly under that area. Can't decide where to cut this out and restraighten or get it as close as I can in one piece. Either way the hoods profile ahs to be relaxed along this run. With the hood in its best adjusted position with the cowl so far the original alignment holes are now just out. Once I get the hood completely established the old holes in the hood mounts will be welded shut and will be redrilled to Locate the hood where it now needs to be.
Adjusted hood establishes where the latch mechanism needs to be. This a bit later.
I'm going to back up one step and prep the right side to accept the new upper closing wall. That next.

Thanks for looking!

Justin