1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

Right door fitment issues from the start:
Just like the left door this right side insisted on mounting a touch too far forward. Once the top of the door was set even with quarter window opening this 5mm+ rear door gap was what I was left with. I could get it to close up but meant lowering the back edge of the door out of alignment with quarter window opening.
I thought about building the edge of the striker to close up this door gap but after mocking up the window frame that wasn't an option. The frame is not moving and gap with the B-pillar is almost 10mm. Completely unacceptable fit.
Before I removed the front fender it was confirmed that this door just needs to come back a few MM's. I attribute this non existent gap as old front end collision damage but it does not account for the huge rear gap.
While all that was going on I also had profile issues with the edge of the door. Top stands out too proud while its even at the mid-line/ door handle area.
Then tapers too quickly as it makes its way down. My plan was to correct as much of this as I could through the hinge assemblies.

[JTR70]

Old rocker skin removal:
Usual process of drilling and breaking the old spot welds. During the forward removal I spotted some old accident damage I had overlooked previously. The drain tray up here is still a bit smashed and bowed in narrower than it should be. It will be easy to relax back out once the skin is removed
Just a few more stubborn welds remain.
New skin on for a quick initial mock up. Looking better already.
Before I can begin installing anything, this door has to be set in its final adjusted latched and hinged position so I can build around that. Its been giving me some contour issues with the rear quarter panel from the beginning. Will be posting that up next.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Begin catching up the right side.
Begin locating the original splash pan back into its original position.
Another small repair patch will have to be added as the metal was very thin through here when it was removed.
Before it goes back on a few rust issues along the mounting flange for the fenders' skin needed filling.
Before I commit to remounting the splash pan I have to get the right door fitment and contour issues I was having earlier ironed out first.
The fitment of this door really went sideways through all of my repairs to both itself and the car. Not terrible but issues I cannot leave alone. Once I got the top of the door fitted to the body contours I lost my 3mm gap at the bottom. No problem since the rocker will be reskinned so I'll have another crack at it. Removing the old rocker skin next.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

I appreciate that Roy its just process of tightening up the lines little by little. Thanks again! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin that is much more than promising that is some great work there. You really do have the hang of it my friend !

Roy

[JTR70]

Fender back on for the first time after welding to check the contour and gap. Again lots adjustment to made as it goes on for good but it is a promising start.
Lots of fine tuning yet to go up and around that leading edge corner.
New rocker skin added to study the overall picture.
Right about here is where I have chased this side about as far as I can without welding anything on permanently.
I still need the ability to remove this nose as the right side fender repair and fitment goes. Time to catch the passenger side up. Begin repairing and adding in the right side fender next.

Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JTR70]

New repair section stitched in.
Fender clamped to my table so i could really throw the heat at it through the flats.
Trickier to stitch as the fender curves and the edge makes the turn.
Had to prop it up and weld in small runs through roll on the body contour.
Stitched and dressed smooth.
Did a little heat shrinking through this swollen area after all the welding was over. A lot of hammer work yet to do once its mounted on for good but its someplace to start.

[JTR70]

I'll take a look at it John and thanks for the tip.

[JTR70]

Thanks Mark, a lot of nip and tucking for sure. I still get impatient at times and it usually comes back to bite me as well.

[JTR70]

Its a tricky spot Roy. The gaps for sure but just as important is the body contours remain consistent across those gaps.

[Jbrooks]

Looks ready for 3M™ Self-Leveling Seam Sealer, 08307. You need a special gun, but it works well on these floor seams.

[merbesfield]

Justin, it’s not too late to consider a career as a Plastic Surgeon. I admire your patience and through forethought. I tend to get in a hurry sometimes and it can bite you. Thanks for posting.

[roy mawbey]

Justin its not easy this repair but it looks like it will be successful those gaps dictate everything really.

Roy

[JTR70]

Rear edge repair: Close but will still have to deal with some final gap shaping around this turn. A tricky transitional area for sure.
At this point I left the original upper corner as it carried on a needed shape profile that the repair lacked. Wasn't sure whether I'd add it into the new section or work with the original. Just keeping my options open for now.
Final cut and ready to begin taking this together.
Carefully adding tack welds as each section was either pried up or pushed down as needed.
Basically tacked and now ready to be dismounted and clamped to my table so I can really throw some heat at this weld joint. Decided to keep the original upper corner for its shape and will repair its edge.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Hood gap:
Gap established along the nose but will need some back filling.
Opposite for the fender side as the last few inches of it will need to be cut and widened to match. This was my best fit. The rest of the run is fine but this last bit just insists on tapering down too tight.
Aside from the gap, I'm most relieved that the hoods edge is running nearly even with the edges of the fender and nose. The curve ball will be the addition of the seal but its starting out close.
Over all side profile is running close enough to begin locking in the back of the front fender.
Etching in my final cut line here.