1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[roy mawbey]

It will look perfect Justin and will work perfectly too I think. In the 54 years in my ownership only ever used the tow hook once. It got the car home for me !

Roy

[JTR70]

Rearward rivets now exit out as closely as I could to the original floor example I posted earlier.
Hook stitched back together though gas welded this time for a more OG appearance. Testing refitting the rivets for clearance before final installation.
Begin rivet installation working from the center out.
Trickiest part about this stage is doing it on my own. I had to come up with a stable enough platform to hold my bucking board (pictured in the vice jaws here) while allowing the pan to rest freely as I torch heated the rivet with my lefthand while holding my rivetter in my right then quickly putting the torch down to begin working the rivet before it cooled. A challenge but slowly replacing these bolts as it goes...
Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JTR70]

Tow hook fitment continued:
Flange cut free of the hook for refitting and adjustment. The ears have been bent over at this point for clearance with the center rib.
Hook was then mocked up for an immediate improved fitment. Cutting it apart for readjustment definitely turned the trick and is more confirmation that you just can't assume these repro parts will fit right out of the box correctly.
Getting ready to tack it back together but making sure it was sitting square before I committed .
Tacked back together with the hook moved back a few MM's more so the rear rivets would clear the cross brace on the other side and with an adjusted angle in relation with the flange allowing it to mount flush against floor.
This was the fit and finish I was after and matches up with Roy's confirmation photo as best as I could hope for.

[JTR70]

A perfect shot Roy, thank you digging this one out and sending it to me! This one along with that T5 shot earlier provides all the needed confirmation that my final configuration is correct; or at least good enough. The gas welds depicted in the corners are also helpful. Your car has faired quite well in such a wet climate. Thanks again my friend!
Justin

[JTR70]

Thanks for the refresh Roy. I now remember that bit of history being discussed several years ago.

[roy mawbey]

Justin, I have sent you a photo of my factory fitted towhook direct to your personal e-mail. Sorry but I took this photo some years ago and its been saved my WIN10 from my old WIn XP. I managed to get it moved on my documents and it really needs enlarging to see very clearly the way they did it.

Sorry I have not been sending pics to the forum for long time and I am not sure now how to do ity!!! Its my age mate, Hope you find the photo of use !!

Roy

[roy mawbey]

Justin, I will look at my tow hook later today still factory fresh and advise my comments. AFN in London stood for Archie Frazer Nash . They built before the war Frazer Nash cars some of them Chain Driven.

After the war they concentrated on getting the Porsche dealership for the UK and got it from around 1952/3 and also BMW motor cycles. Dickie Stoop was a customer of AFN then owned by the Aldington Brothers. Dickie a keen racer bought his 904 Porsche from them. He died a long time ago now.

Roy

[JTR70]

Tow hook mounting correction:
Rib shoulder pounded back out with the three forward holes reset and tapped.
Rear edge of the mounting flange now stands off as shown on that T5 original example. I assumed a flush fit but that is obviously not how Reutter mounted them so never mind what I think.
The problem with this tilt is that the rear mounts are well over an inch away from the panel which is partly why I assumed a flat and even mounting. I hate just heeling them over to touch so I'm going to cut the welds and reset the hook in relation to its flange for a cleaner final presentation instead of a "forced fit". Just a tow hook I know but I still don't want it to look like shit under here.
This will also give me the opportunity to adjust the hook downward a few MM's as the rivets are interfering with the cross brace flange. Part of getting all of these repro parts to fit together correctly.
Bouncing back and fourth to stitch up that long run on the Id panel where it was removed. Back in its original position as the drilled out spots along the side confirm. Finishing out the battery box floor next.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Was AFN the Dicky Stoops Dealership Roy? You are correct, they are very intricate but at the same time simple if that makes any sense. Construction would have been much more pleasant back in the day with fresh pieces of purpose built steel and dedicated holding jigs. Always easier no matter what it is to build from new versus damage repair. Roy, your car wouldn't still have its original tow hook assembly would it?
I really need an underside shot of an original to determine if the hooks mounting flange was completely flat like this new one above or if it had relief shapes pressed in to accommodate the center rib shoulders. If I mount it as is I'll have to completely flatten the entire area including the reinforcement top side for a flush fit.
According to this photo the rib shape was not flattened at all under the tow hook. Any info on what the other side looked like originally would be most appreciated. Thanks for any help. Justin


Update:


According to this T5 shot from Deluxe customs the hook never sat flush. I may have over thought this one. The A's would most likely be the same but can you still confirm Roy?
Thanks! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin, its no wonder these 356A cars were so expensive over here in the UK. I remember well, looking near my school in the showroom of AFN , the main UK Porsche importer in 1958 just before
I left school for the final time . They had a new 356 sitting there at just over £2,000 At that time it was considerably more expensive than a Jaguar. Never thought I would own one. But this front battery box area is when you study all of it, is quite complex. A lot of design work went into the front end of a 356. Seeing it all coming together on this one makes you realise for then , in the 1950's as a relativily small company Porsche did well to produce them. Only when you get a chance to look closely at this current project of yours, can you see effort required to get it right.

Roy

[JTR70]

Minor floor corrections
Here is how much it needs. Once I traced my final cut line for a butt-joint it was onto metal.
New sections added and just about stitched in.
Another test fit to make sure the edges where snug against the wall before going further.
Ready to move onto the next step. Floor and front wall will come out one more time for weld finishing and tow hook installation. Simultaneously I can finally begin welding the ID panel and rear wall sections in for good. After all this repair and preparation work its now headed towards final installation time.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Floor and front cross member refitment:
Once the rear bulkhead wall was repositioned back into the correct spot the new floor and front cross member where added back into to make sure the entire battery box fits together squarely as a unit. Fortunately I was still able to get the floor and front wall back in without having to separate them.
Next was confirming a tight fit with the floors edge against the wall. Then onto templates so I can back fill these shortfalls down both sides of this recess
And along this right side edge where its tapered away short from the beginning.
Templates taped securely to the floor so they won't move during removal. Really simple, all they do is represent the leading edge that is needed.
As it went some additional lower adjustment was needed to the wall so it snugged up against the floors edge tightly; glad I tested it all once more before I committed to any tack welds. I had to redrill some holes to tweak and hold this final position. High lighted with a marker to make doubly sure this wall stays in this same spot.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Can't thank you enough for those nice words Roy I really do appreciate it! My part at the moment is to get all the underside and interior surfaces in a good coat of semi-gloss black then undercoat the areas that would have received the tar coating originally. Then the finished body will go in for final bodywork and paint locally when it goes home. The scope of this restoration would have been very intimidating several years ago but the Coupster build was a real confidence builder and its completion confirmed in my mind at least that I can wiggle out of just about any problem a 356 chassis/body can throw out during the process and now that I have an outfitted cellete bench I could literally start with set of bare torsion housings and build outward from there; given enough time of course. Thank you so very much once again My friend! Justin

[roy mawbey]

It will look perfect Justin but it will take time to put all steering box and all the arms , drums brake gear, petrol tank etc, all back in there. I can see exactly why the restoration costs can go sky high its so demanding if the job is done perfectly. Also just how can you quote for the work involved I just can't work that out. Your expertise is clearly fully stated on this car from start to finish but someone else has the job of spraying and interior I believe? What a responsibility you took on with this project and you just get on and did it!!

I really admire your effort so should the owner ! Its the best restoration thread on any forum I have ever looked at.
Roy

[JTR70]

Once its all welded up and on the rotisserie I'll make sure all the bare spots are covered then a final coat of rocker shultz.
Then an initial coat to the inside surfaces of the closing panels.
Once dried it was time to begin fitting for the final time.
After all the welding and heat it had of course changed shape slightly. Messaging it back into the sweet spot.

Thanks for looking!

Justin