1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

Hi Roy, Yes that seal changes both the gap and the hoods height in relation to the edges of the fenders. Its thickness is a huge factor on how the hood will ultimately sit on there in the latched position.

[roy mawbey]

Justin I had the original factory hood seal on my car for about 14 years or more till I decided to buy a new one . You have said a number of times how a new seal can upset the hood gap. How true that is. It was only after trying the new one in the 70's did I start to realise you have to make adjustments to get the gap perfect as it was with the old one.

Roy

[JTR70]

Followed that long weld around the lip up with my torch to thoroughly fuse the added backfill strips and to anneal the harder MIG welds for final hammer work and shaping.
Begin introducing the trunk seal. Its thickness adds in the next curve ball for final gap and fitment.
There is some load in there but I was at least able to get it to latch the first time out. The gap has widened on this initial fitment but lots of adjustment as it goes still ahead.
I can make up any unwanted width with lead. At this point, too wide is much simpler to remedy than too tight.
As the backside of this panel can always be seen I added in a Faux clamp strip for the emblem. Speed clips would be used anyway but this strip helps create an original appearance when its on the lift.

[JTR70]

Thanks Roy! Good eye, Looks like I mocked up two Right sides. Just have to flip it over and move the thread plate to the other side to create a left side.

[roy mawbey]

Well done Justin always a step nearer!! Good job with the new bumper irons great to see them fit so well in th e slots. Does one of these need to be turned upside down through 180 degrees?

Roy

[JTR70]

Right side repair patch installed.
Fine tuning the shape. Excess cut away and tack-welding together.
New section just about stitched in.
All stitched in.
A little fine finishing and welding yet but the heavy lifting is done on this one.
Toyed with installing it in for good now but It will have wait until the fender is all welded in. I need clear access to work the back side of the weld joint once the new nose and fenders are finally stitched together. Repeat the left side bucket repairs here shortly.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Rust repairs on Right side bucket:
Tried to stay conservative by drilling out only the rust breached areas but as I began trying to weld in the new patches to plug these holes the shoulders kept blowing through. While it hadn't rusted through the inner surfaces where just too pitted and thin. I had no choice but to cut past these compromised areas.
Began paper template for a new section.
Not a big section but a bit of complicated domed shape.
Then onto steel. Relief cut in sections to allow the needed shape to develop.
Only a small portion of this donor will be used once its all over.

[JTR70]

Onto the next deal...
Begin headlight bucket repairs. Some rust at the bases and old residual accident damage to address. Especially along that lateral leading edge where it had been beaten on by the body shop so many years ago.
Original trim ring installed to dial in the correct shape around the lip where has some damage had occurred.

There was an attempt to beat out this lateral area while still installed in the car but as you can see it still remained too flat.
While hammering progressed on the left , the right bucket was acid bathed to clean up the residual rust along the mounting surface.

[JTR70]

New bracket mock up.
Brand new set. Will need lots of tweaking once the actual bumper fitment starts I'm sure.
Brackets drawn tight against the mount and no clearance issues with the skin.
Ample room for any adjustments but most importantly the holes look like it should.
Could have been cut narrower for sure at the insides...
But this was how it was done.

[JTR70]

Opening the bumper bracket holes:
The noses location is set , now was the time to go ahead and cut in the bracket openings. The inner diameter of the bracket mount's footprint was traced to the inside of the wall to ensure final opening's location would end up exactly where it needs to be.
Once those foot prints where traced the nose was dismounted to mark out the final opening size and then cutting. Final cut lines have been established here and are based on my original examples.
Openings cut open and nose remounted for a confirmation. Bumper irons should clear fine.
By the way the final lateral cuts where not centered with the original markings. I had them favor to the outside because once the mounting bolts are drawn up tight the assembly moves towards the outer shoulders.
Stuffed the bracket mounts with paint sticks and no signs of interference with the skin.

[JTR70]

Harvested the original clipping strip for additional hole placement confirmation.
Confirmed. Holes in just about the right spot and slightly lower than the center hole.
Again, this easily overlooked detail gives a nice victorious banner type attitude to the emblem. Now back to messaging that poor roughed up trough section.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Emblem placement trial and error.
Jumped the gun and drilled the emblem holes at center nose. Then I got around to digging out my original emblems only to discover the center pin is off center of the center letter by about 5MM.

This discrepancy might well have slipped past detection but I couldn't look at it from here on in as it would have drove me nuts. Correction holes in red moved off center that 5mm to compensate for this pin placement.
Emblem now mounts fully centered on the nose.
Cellette bench used once again as a sight mark to ensure the emblem sits level.
Initial holes back filled and dressed smooth. Emblem set. The lateral pair of holes are drilled slightly lower than the center putting a slight arc in the emblems overall profile as it wraps around the nose. As I became more aware of this detail the emblem does take on a banner shape which gives it some flair. Without an original reference I would have just laid it straight across the nose.

[JTR70]

Thank you Roy, but actually by this point I still wasn't out of the woods with that hood to nose transition. It would fight little more before I finally put it to bed. That up here shortly. Thanks again! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin, well done indeed you must be happy about that correction. That job would have been beyond most peoples ability and once lead skimmed will turn out just fine I think. Your experiences gained even down to the template for the badge tell me you never give up when many would!!

Roy

[JTR70]

All stitched with welds dressed down. Still have some stitching and finishing along the tough but I wanted to get the welding with the nose completed first.
Most of this run all welded back together with only the left side run remaining. Far from perfect but again only skim coat of lead needed to finish out the final gap and contour shapes of the end of the hood.
Got tired of welding and grinding so I took a break to locate and drill the front emblem holes. Once again an original reference saves the day.
Basic template off of it.
Then transferred over onto the new nose.