1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

Right rocker skin work cont.
Seems simple enough just to pound this feature out flat again but I've learned it can't be done cold. The corners on either side of this relief have to be heated to gather and shrink up the stretched metal here. I tried hitting this feature out cold on an earlier project and the excess transferred both a bow in the profile and wave in the surface of the rocker skin.
Both unwanted drain features heated and pounded back out flat here and without distortion to the surface of the rocker.
Threshold flange re-bent .
Remaining corner highlights where it was.
Reinstalled for a test fit and this problem now solved. The leading edge of the flange also sits level with the threshold whare as before it sat too tall and needed to be trimmed back level.

[JTR70]

Rocker rework:
My eventual answer would be to flatten and reposition the bend on the rocker skin side. I noticed there was a slight bit of excess at the upper edge of the flange run when fully seated against the threshold. I thought there might be enough there?? Beats the hell out of cutting and rewelding this long run...
Had to stop just in front the corner relief and will widen that separately.
I etched where the initial bend was and will rebend about 2mm behind this line.
The re-flattening stretched the metal and put a curve in the rockers profile. A couple bites with my shrinker jawsreversed that back out.
While I was on the subject of shrinking to preserve the rockers profile shape now was the time to take out this pair of drain reliefs. While they are a good evolutionary feature for drainage they are not correct for an A car. More rocker prep up next...

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Right rocker skin rework:
With the rocker in its best matched and level position with the bottom edge of the door I am left with this gap with the threshold in its original position.
The deficit narrows slightly towards the back but I still well short the tight fit I need.
Forward drain pan also coming up well short of where I need this rocker skin to be.
Cut the back of the threshold free to allow it to move outward to help close up the shortfall. This wasn't really my answer as it creates misalignment with the striker post and the inner shoulder run would crowd the eventual base seal strip out from under the threshold ledge.
Didn't like the way that leading edge of the threshold flange was now peaking out from under the frames flange and it was still short up front.

[JTR70]

Thanks Roy! Substructure is basically holding the shape of that skin. I'll be nipping and tucking the door frame as I always do to get it all to match. Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin that door closure gap is going to look so good. I will be interested to see how you will remove that very minor 'bow ' in the door skin. Shrink ???

Roy

[JTR70]

Splash pan repair section complete:
Rocker mocked up one more time before I commit to fully stitching that new section on.
I've got my 3MM gap and the best average match to the edge of the door. The door has a slight bow to its profile and that will need to be softened but these adjustments are now minor corrections.
With the rocker in the sweet spot I simultaneously have the tight uniform fit against the back side of the rocker that I was shooting for. ready to stitch this up.
Lower stitching as well as the corner welding and lateral flange repairs complete. Excess to the inside lap joint trimmed and shaped to the original sweeping profile.
Another confirmation fit. All set and onto the next issue.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Thank you Roy. I remember seeing your old photos of that repair and I know you can appreciate what's on here.

[roy mawbey]

A nice repair Justin. That was one area just the same sort of size I had to repair on the r/side of my car Justin about 47 years ago !!

Roy

[JTR70]

New splash pan repair section:
Onto metal. Basic shape with lateral and lower flanges installed.
Final placement of the new repair section is dependent on a tight fit against the inside of the rocker panel and whare it is positioning the rocker in relation to the edge of the door.
Bottom edge of the door has a bow that will need to be softened but this is my best average fit with a 3mm gap.
Dialed in close enough to commit to a final cut line. Ready to begin joining these two together.
Tacked and on for another test fit before I fully stitch these two together. Put a step in the lateral flange to accommodate the lap joint between the fender and the rocker so I could get this flange to butt up just a little closer.

[JTR70]

Lower Splash pan repair:
Begin fitting the new rocker skin to the bottom of the newly adjusted door so I can dial in the final shape and flange position of the eventual lower patch repair section it will mount directly onto.
To get the rocker skin level with the bottom edge of the door creates a big gap with the mounting flange with the remains of the old wall.
I cut the old lower section free and moved it out a few MM's where it now needs to be.
That adjustment gives me the best average fit all around. Once this section was determined to be short a final three piece repair section down here was looking less likely.
Began developing my paper template for a clean and tight one piece repair panel.

Thanks for looking.
Justin

[JTR70]

Left door set onto building the body around it.
Basic 3MM gap with the top edge of the door level with the bottom of the quarter window opening...finally.
Improved but still a touch proud up top with the belt line of the door (door handle area) even. Frustrating but I'll get it all lined up before its over.
Bottom tucks a little too quick as well but again these will all be dealt with as the progress continues.
Now that the door is in its final adjusted position I can begin repairing and remounting the splash pan.
Door had to be in final position so I could reset both this mounting flanges height and distance to the leading edge of the door.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Hi Roy, I could get the rear gap I was after if I lowered the back of the door but I'd lose the line along the top edge and then Vise vera. It just wouldn't give me both without getting into the hinge mounts again. All par for the course my friend as usual. Thanks again!

[roy mawbey]

Justin well I think I would have had a 'nightmare' with this last exercise of yours. So to get that sorted as I can see in the last photos you took, you must be a happy guy for sure! By yourself this car has presented so many hard to resolve problems but the standard of repair, has looked so good with everything you have been working on. You deserve a medal and I hope the owner agrees this has been a real eye opener of a 356 body restoration.

Roy

[JTR70]

The rest of the door frames' gap in the roof opening runs about the same width. Centered in there as best as I could hope for.
With that confirmation Both the upper and lower hinge mounts were all welded up. Upper hinge half cleaned and bolted on for the last time.
Lower hinge mount welding also completed.
I added the lower extension tie in to the mount first so I could bolt the hinge half on for good. I'll weld it to the threshold once I have the final height of the rocker assembly dialed in.
Lower hinge half cleaned, shimmed and bolted in for the final time. Pulling the pins for door removal makes life so much simpler. To disturb these bolts again at a later date would be a huge PIA. It takes the use of a floor jack to raise the door up where it needs to be while you tighten the bolts. A big pain, especially if you're on your own. Anyway, right door all set into final position.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Finishing up the hinge mounts:
Fastforward to now and finally tying up this loose end. Its all changed so I was also playing around with various shim thicknesses as I went.
After a bit of trial, error and slight adjustments through both the upper and lower hinges I finally had my best adjusted position.
As it went I had some height transfer issues with the edge of the cowl to the door. I melted the solder back to expose what was really under the lead. Left very raw in through here with a lot of solder used to smooth it all out.
Finally had the top edge of the door aligned to continue into the quarter window opening with a good basic 3mm gap.
Gap between the door frame and the B-pillar at a manageable distance.