57 356 A mild resto

[Phil Planck]

Mark
I've only done this once, but if your tunnel and inner long. flanges are in the correct elevation, you should be able to weld the pan in without regard to the pedal assembly. Once the pan welding is done, the pedal assembly can be bolted to the bulkhead with the m/c studs so you can determine where to drill the 3 holes for your bracket. Keep in mind that the holes in the pedal assembly for the bracket bolts are actually slots. That is because you install the m/c studs first, then rotate the pedal assembly down over the bracket bolts, thus the need for the slots.
Phil

[merbesfield]

Thank you gentlemen. I hope my round embossment is in the right spot. I have time to move things if I need to. Not sure what Phil means about the holes being slotted tho. Exciting to be getting closer.

A couple of othe questions.
Did you guys use seam sealer on the fender rolled inner lip that houses the wire or leave it open to breath?

Did you guys spray undercoating on the inside floors? I know these cars originally had tar sheets and the later 911 got undercoating aka Stone guard. Just wondering what I should do to inside once buttoned up. Not going for concours original, more interested in preservation and sound control. Thanks Mark

[Phil Planck]

Mark
The pedal assembly "frame" has 3 slotted holes that your under pan bracket bolts go through



You can see one above

[merbesfield]

Mark
The pedal assembly "frame" has 3 slotted holes that your under pan bracket bolts go through



You can see one above

Ah, now I understand. For ease of installation into car. Thanks, Mark

[bbspdstr]

"Did you guys use seam sealer on the fender rolled inner lip that houses the wire or leave it open to breath?"

While right-side-up, I soak the fender wire rolled bead at the top of arch with a thinned urethane to saturate the area and catch the run-off with cans to re-pour. Messy but the whole idea is not to trap or cover any rust but "encapsulate" it so the rust cannot grow. If any is missed, it IS better to "let it breathe."

More and more wired edges are getting opened and rust repaired and often new wires installed due to the plain ol' "times a-goin' by." I didn't need to do that much in the '60s and '70 or even '80s.....but here we are in 2017 and it's said that "rust never sleeps."

Porsche didn't go out of it's way to protect those areas, so even 20 years was better than the same areas on my 10 year old Dodge truck.

As for the inside once all is done, I usually paint with a black urethane primer over minimal seam-sealer in needed areas. Save the texture for the trunk (boot), engine bay and underside. Sometimes Dynamat sound-deadener is indicated, sometimes tar paper.....and I like the die-cut kits the best, but those are expensive!

-Bruce

[Don C]

Bruce,
Do you notice any difference in the quietness inside the car with either Dynamat or original tar paper/jute?
My car was stripped of all insulation and over time I'm trying to make it quieter.
Thanks!
Regards,
Don

[bbspdstr]

Don, absolutely there is a difference.

ANYTHING that makes the car "like new" in "feel" of the driving experience is a plus.

On the bigger resto jobs I have been hired to do, the edict is usually this: "I want to believe I have a time machine and can go back to a Porsche showroom in 19XX and buy a new 356 of my choice."

Therefore, the driving, the quietness (or none, depending on model)...the steering (no worn steering box 'sawing'), the suspension (I try to sell at least new rear torsion bars and bushings), the original power (at least) from the engine, really good brakes (like new), a smooth gearbox, properly padded seats, good electric circuitry, windows that operate as they did when new....every little thing including a new windshield (looking through a new glass has a great psychological impact on the person who just wrote all those checks) ...to taking them back to when new 356s were really cool cars.

If sound-deadener is done well, at least as good as the tar paper and true asphaltic undercoat Porsche used, even a radio can be enjoyed and the old rationale of "Hey, who needs a radio...just listen to the sound of the exhaust!" can be optional and overall, the 356 can be more original!

I have been using the Eastwood version of Dynamat. Little difference in workability and slightly cheaper...and any of it is covered with carpet and interior or rubber mats of some sort.

-Bruce

[Jbrooks]

I just did my 912 with dynamat, and a layer of their 3/8 Dynapad over that behind the seats and under the floor. I really can't tell any difference in the sound levels. After it was all in and new carpets, I think it's just as loud as before we started.

[merbesfield]

I just did my 912 with dynamat, and a layer of their 3/8 Dynapad over that behind the seats and under the floor. I really can't tell any difference in the sound levels. After it was all in and new carpets, I think it's just as loud as before we started.

I hear this same comments time and again. That Dynamat did not help. I have read a little and sound control is very technical. Not just as simple as sticking sound control mat down. Something to do with decoupling sound transfer or something similar in techno speak. Requires different mats and materials bla bla but I don't remember the details. Just that peel and stick does not work, as you said.

[jjeffries]

I think the whole Dymat thing has become a bit de rigeur and thus a nice income stream for the producers and installers alike. It will be a nightmare to remove for the next restorer. I often wish my 911 SC was quieter inside, my 50 year old ears have had their fair share of abuse from music and power tools before I understood the need to take better care of them. That said, I wouldn't go for all the mass loaded vinyl etc that folks over on Pelican are using in their efforts to civilize their old p-cars...I add too much mass myself. For actual restoration, 3M makes a lovely OEM-grade tile that you hit with a heat gun; it comforms to surfaces and looks "factory". John.

[Jack Staggs]

I would like to know more about this 3M product. I often need small pieces for patching.
Thanks in advance.

[jjeffries]

Jack, I believe it's the 3M 38500 product....available to civilians via Amazon or even Walmart. Has adhesive backing and doesn't need heat. Good for floors and flat areas with reinforcing ribs stamped into them. Has a black finish with diamond pattern.
But now I remember what I was really thinking of and describing, and that was a Genuine Honda sound proofing pad which collision repair shops use on replacement panels. This is the stuff that is activated by heat. Any Honda car dealer that is involved in selling wholesale/collision would know the part number and either have it in stock or be able to get it. Comes in sheets/pads. That's what I'd go for.
Since I'm on a tear, Lowes carries a cost effective alternative to Dymat, which is a flexible aluminum backed buytl tape, 6" wise and comes in rolls, made dor roofing/flashing repairs. Very similar to Dymat et al. Best of luck.

[bbspdstr]

[Don C]

Bruce,
Mine is a driver, 32,000 miles in 4 years of constant attention to the small stuff. I feel pretty confident in the mechanicals, just the body is a mess from Bubba doing his thing in the 80's. Let the next guy do the body work, I'm having too much fun driving it!
Would be nice to have it a little quieter but for now ear plugs work on the highway!
Regards,
Don
PS: You ever gonna have an open house at your place? I'm in!

[jjeffries]

My suggestions certainly aren't apropos to any kind of authenticity. The Honda "tiles" I mentioned would be good if you were doing a totally stripped cell from scratch and weren't pursuing a concours title, but they be more in line with a 911 than 356.

As mentioned, I have a 911 SC coupe, plus an Alfa GTV coupe. Both are of course way noisier than a modern car, especially in terms of wind noise. As Bruce notes, it's part of the total experience, but the 911 fan noise can actually hurt my ye olde ears, especially if I'm getting over a head cold or similar. At my local hardware store I found some nice Made in Sweden (!) ear protectors, soft orange silicone plugs on a springy plastic, headphone-like clip/frame, which hangs down by your chin versus sitting atop your noggin. They are rated for gun ranges and help take that metallic whiny edge off.