58367 The $75 Junkyard Carrera coupe restoration

[JTR70]

All four of my custom mounting points are finished and back from the machine shop. I have several removable inter-locking bar clamps to buy but thats about it as far as hardware. Just about ready to have my buddy start fabricating the hoop.


holes were drilled for lightness and a finished look. Relief section was milled into the bottom for a snug fit to the chassis. Large holes which are angled and indexed for the bar inserts were the toughest to get right.


These holes had to be milled on a compound angle and with right and left orientation to sit correctly once mounted in the car.


Once the plates are seated, you can see that it is a very specific compound angle the tube be at to work.

With the base plate mocked-up in the car I cut an angle in the tube end allowing it to completely seat on the plate surface but straight-up with a slightly rearward angle. (like the factory bar) This masking tape with right and left locating lines gave my machinist the angle that i needed the mounting hole drilled at. He recreated it beautifully and without the car for referrence.


the tube stub-end will be welded on the underside. This was certainly much more work then just welding it right onto the top of the plate but its much stronger and lighter this way. This is the detail stuff I go crazy on.


The rear mount perches are now complete. All four of my custom mounts from paper to reality.


These rear units had a bit of weight to them being solid stock so I took them back to Bill (my machinist) and had him put these revolver style holes in for me. Again lighter and a better finished look.


Nice secure shouldered and bolted perch for my 1 1/2 inch down tubes.


Quick mock-up. Bar sits just like I wanted it to with a nice secure fit.


A solid step forward...


Before cutting this tube section up I used it to simulate the hoops basic lay with it resting neutrally in the mount holes. The holes were bored in beautifully. I used the rib on the inner quarter panel as my sight marker before and now; it still lined up!


This bar is a close representation but the actual hoop will have that kick at the bottom which will lay this upright more inward. The factory bar has these giving it more of an overall triangle shape. I love the look of the factory hoop so we'll go ahead and replicate it even though that slight kick at the bottom weakens it.


Happy with the basic rearward angle. Looks about the same profile as other installed bars I have seen, There is plenty of adjustment and wiggle room before its all set but it looks very close here.

[JTR70]

Stub-end installation.


Lots of teadious shaping of the tube end to get a nice shouldered edge of the plate exposed to weld to. had a ways to go here to get that edge exposed all the way around.


Stub-end leads shaped and only tacked into position here. Have to wait until its all built before I can commit to welding them up.


very happy so far. They both mirror one another pretty well

left more then enough lead tube. The final cut will be at or below the tape but I'll have to wait for the clamps.


Getting there, tube ends orient at the correct positions.


Another inch closer. Tube clamp ends are next.


Here are those trick interlocking connectors I wanted to use over the traditional stub-ends. Much stronger and much cleaner over the original way. With these connectors on hand I was able to determine the final length of the stub-end. Right side tube lead trimmed to final length. left side next.


Final front stub end configuration. Taking shape.


Stub-end connector with roll-bar side flange removed.


My first thought was to have the open mounting face oriented forward. This was for a straight-on install for the hoop. but, after looking at it all the potential force (shoulder-harness etc) would be going forward which would rely totally on the bolts to hold it in place. With it now turned 180 degrees the high side now traps the roll-bar mount end making for a much stronger configuration. Just have to pick the hoop over the stub-ends for install;not that much harder.


Finally have my roll-bar mounts ready. Time to send these down to Warren to get the hoop fabricated. I was anxious!

Decided it was time to fully weld-up the stub-ends to the base plates. With these set we'll build the hoop accordingly.


Ready to go; I have all my mounting hardware now just need a hoop. I Did not get off cheap here, between the clamps and the machine shop service I'm already into it 488.97 as pictured. Still have to buy the tubing and pay Warren for his time. However, I'm building it like I wanted. Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[JTR70]

Made the 2 hours trip to my buddy Warrens shop and dropped off the front stub end mounts and my drawing of what I wanted. Fortunately he is in the middle of helping me with a full-on front and rear 993 suspension upgrade on a '58 coupe so he has a car to build the hoop off of. This car was the perfect stand in to get the dimensions and shape right for the hoop. My front stub-end mounts are pictured here tacked into position. Next step is to bend up the tubing.


Several weeks later I made the 2 hour trip out to my buddy Warrens again on a Sunday. He set the day aside for me and we were able to finally knock-out the hoop for my roll-bar project.Its home with me now and am very excited about completing it. A special thanks to my man Marc Allingham for providing us with detailed shots of his roll-bar making life so much easier! We really have a great community here; thanks again Marc.



changed the shape of the hoop just a bit. I had the uprights lien inward a little more to keep the "square" look out of it.


Stepped up to 4130 chromoly instead of mild steel. Sure took some doing but I finally have all the parts to build this roll-bar.

[JTR70]

Tacked the baseplates/stub-ends in place then slipped the hoop on. Mounted a seat as well to double check the clearance. I could not wait to see this thing in!


Started fitting a down-bar.

Both sides mocked up and surprisingly symmetrical on the first try.


Basic fit and I am really happy with it! Same general design as the original but with our own little tweek to the hoop profile and mounts.


Looks symmetrical from both angles.

Sits pretty square and even in the car; only some mild adjustments as it goes. Relieved it wasn't an uneven mess in there.


Initial excitement and play time is over. Onto trimming and fitment now. Thanks for looking! Justin

[roy mawbey]

That roll bar fits in so well!!

Roy

[JTR70]

Thanks Roy, glad you like it!
double checking for proper head clearance.

Clear profile view to show how much it leans back for head clearance. All the bars are just laying in there now. Once tacked its actually going to lay back a few more degrees still buying me a little more room.



Bends at the bottom were set to both angle in and back. A cross brace will be added to support this bend later.

Spent quite some time shaping the hoop and upper down tube joints. These will be the trickiest of all the intersections to get a good tight contoured fit. Once out of the way it shoud be downhill from here.

Pretty much the same proceedure as with previous metal work; many repeated test fits and an evolving paper template to achieve the final shape.


Took some doing but I finally got a tight gap all the way around this complex intersection.


Caught a break; right side went much faster. Just had to flip my template over and reverse my lines. ready to cut here.


Done! These were tough. both bars are coming in at compound angles where they meet. Real oddball specialized shape.


Both joints contour nicely with a tight gap. Just about ready to tack them in.


Glad these are done! Moving onto the lower ends to install the tube connectors etc.


rear tube clamp connectors installed and down tube tack into position. BTW the through this entire build process everything remained only tacked together just in case there were adjustments to make.


cross-member which will double as my anchor point for the shoulder harness is going in next.

Cross-brace notched and tacked into final position. Very concerned this might have come up short after notching. The extra caution paid-off; it fit snug.

[JTR70]

With the cross-bar positioned equal on the roll-bar it also sighted up even with the cars frame cross-member seams. More confirmation its on the right track.


was concerned that the cross bar may not be wide enough to accomidate the outer shoulder strap. A quick mock-up put that fear to rest.


First runner cut to basic length. With this bar running parallel with the frame it not only looks better but intersects and supports a weld joint with the forward tube clamp connector; very happy with that.


Both lower runners cut to basic length. The time consuming job of notching them for a tight fit is next.

Right side runner notched and tacked in first.


Rollbar parts fabrication done! Notched and fitted the last section of tubing. Just have to finish welding up the joints but done otherwise. Another side project I can check off my list.


Everything lines up and fits as best as I could hope for. You can sight the cross-member and rear seat tray edge here. Even enough...

Basic Fabrication finally completed.

Unit comes right out for a stock appearance. Once its all carpeted and upholstered only a couple of inches of the half-moon stub-ends will be visible.


Got it welded up enough to remove it so I can finish gluing it together in relative comfort. Have to take slow and in small sections with interval test fits to make sure its not changing shape on me. Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[JTR70]

For safety and visibility I wanted an LED third brake light for this car. I thought installing one in the cross-tube would be the perfect place since it would be up high in the rear window and requires absolutely no further modification be done the car itself to mount it. Ordered a really nice one from a street-rod outfit.


I wanted the brake light to be flush mounted so I began fabricating this internal housing out of heavy flat stock to regain the strength lost once I cut the hole in the tube.


Housing profiled to the light body for a tight uniform fit.


Lots of filing and repeated test fits.


It was a very tight fit requiring alot of patients to get it to seat in there!


Hole cut in the tube for a flush mount. Housing tacked in and being oriented to point straight out the rear window.

Housing fully welded. light installed and wired

Decided to sneak the hot lead out the lower outer right side which faces the body. It will immediately dive under the carpet and into the tunnel.


Its in! Everything's even and the light sits right.

It works!!

This will help those little beehives with raising my visibility at a stop light and hopefully decrease my chances of getting hit. Love the fact that this roll-bar does one more job now and it required absolutely no more modification to the car. Thanks for stopping by! Justin

[admin]

Really nice Fabrication work, and the 3rd Brake light is a great idea , with all the distracted and comatose drivers these days.

[merbesfield]

What a great idea.

[JTR70]

Thank you Bruce and Mark! Glad you guys approve!

Remote cooler and oil line fabrication


My new "stand-in" Polo 4-cylinder 911 engine that is being built requires a remote oil cooler. I resisted it at first because I didn't want to drill holes or add things up here that was not stock. However, by the time its finished I'll probably be just shy of 50K in this new motor and the last thing I want is to burn it up or have it wear prematurely all because I would not make the necessary concessions to keep its life blood cool. Actually the more thought and planning I have put into it I now realize it wont be as invasive as I thought. Basically 2 holes drilled in the lower splash pan, 1 maybe two holes in the engine compartment and several threaded brackets. I'm sure it will be more but I'll figure that out as it goes. There will be no real modifications to the fenderbrace for the oil cooler itself. I'll build a bracket that will work off of the existing horn mount tab and maybe a collar clamp that will mount off the headlight harness tube. Everything will unbolt with no welding. The new Setrab oil cooler will of course dictate the final configuration.


Only real picture I have for referrence of the factory hardline system is in my Carrera book. I brought it with me to the shop so I could start planning my own system based on the original. I could make my life so much more simpler by just running soft lines but it has to look cool and replicate what the factory had done. I would not be happy with it otherwise.


I used some masking tape to represent the basic lay of the line according to my photos. This car originally had a roller bearing 4-cam motor so there was need for a remote oil cooler. The later plain bearing motors required front coolers and all this additional plumbing. My first task is to fabricate the body mounted tabs for the hardlines. Bill Seargent has generously offered to share this info with me.



Again Bill Seargent answered my post concerning Carrera oil lines and components. He generously shared his time, detailed pictures and Valuable hands on experience concerning this subject. He's a great source of information and a credit to the 356 community. Thanks again Bill! Included in this helpful info were detailed plans and pictures of the mounting bases that get welded to the chassis. Based on Bill's dimesions I made a hammerform pictured above and was able to begin making them.


Sample bolt illustrates the correct thickness I need to allow the bolt head (or nut) to slide up and down the housing/trap.


First unit complete and ready to mount. Second one bolted to the hammer form and ready to be shaped and welded.


I used heavier 18 guage steel for added strength over the standard 20 guage. A little harder to work with but I wanted the extra strength to trap the bolt head. I also added that center plate to box it in further. I could not think of a bigger pain then for that bolt head to bend the housing (if I really had to crank on it to get it off in the future)allowing it to spin freely in there. Not quite how the factory did it but I wanted to make double certain that this does not happen.


Removable bolt (and or nut) in position. Housing is now ready to be mounted on the car. After showing my girlfriend this new piece she said it looked just like a fixture for a security chain on the front door. She was right! Damn! Could have just went to home depot instead today.

[JTR70]

First one now fully installed in the upper corner. This one I would find out later would have to be repositioned. Just one of those things you learn by doing.


Not too invasive, Two plug welds on the tangs and these come right off.


Second bracket just about ready to come out of the hammer form. Each bracket takes a solid session to complete from start to finish so I probably have a soild 4 days just in bracket fabrication.

Slight change in plans from the factory layout. The green tape represents the factory lines based on photos that I have been provided. The"X" on the cross tape is where the second bracket would be. Just above the suspension horn is a really nice recessed trough that is a more natural path for the lines to take. My white tape follows this trough which is whare I have decided to run my oil lines.


The mount bracket had to be shortened a few MM's with a different tang configuration to get it to fit snuggly down in this trough. Finished product here.


plug welded in and dressed.

What I really like about these brackets are that they replicate how it was original done and they are very easy to remove if and when the day comes.

taking shape

About done building oil line brackets. I just have two more to build for the rear. I decided to put a third bracket down low just ahead of the oil cooler up front. None of the original systems I've seen call for one but I felt like they would be so much better supported and isolated with one more attachment before they turn to soft lines at the cooler. Now I think I'm done welding in here. Everything else should be just bolt-in.

[JTR70]

Just as I finished my last mounting bracket and welded on the fronts My New oil cooler was finally delivered on back order from over several weeks. I can now go ahead and fabricate the non-invasive mounting brackets, alloy ducting and deflector shield for it.



Really nice Setrab compact cooler. All the latest in flow and heat disapation technology. What also sold me was the larger 19mm outlet ports.



Didn't know if i'd mount it vertically or horizontally. Its too tall in the upright position and would hang below the skin. it will have to lay on its side. Fits much more naturally in this position anyway.



Nice fit with ample room for the stand-offs, ducting and shields.
I would have ton of fabrication time mounting and shrouding this unit!


Had my basic plan but lots of cardboard templates to come. It changed and evolved as it went. I based the deflector plate and ducting on the original carrera set-up but shaped it for this specific application.



Spent several hours figuring out the cleanest and most non-invasive way to mount this cooler. I finally Decided on 1X1 square stock for the uprights to evenly and securely mount the alloy brackets supplied on the cooler which are also rubber insulated.



Mounted these thread plates for use with the stock horn bracket mount.These would later be removed and mounted on the inside of the tube.


I cut in these reliefs so this upright would interlock into the fender brace for more secure fit. These sheetmetal ear/tabs were my first thought. Didn't like it and went to round tubing instead. Again cut those nut plates free and moved them to the inside of the tube for a cleaner finish. A little rethink and adjustments as it progessed. Typical routine for me...



Again,Scrapped the tab/ear idea and went with these Threaded tube ends. much stronger with a better finished look.

[roy mawbey]

Some really nice fabrication Justin. Like the idea you change it if its just not what you wanted! I can understand how the hours just fly by doing all that.

Roy

[JTR70]

Hi Roy, Thanks! Yes, it was more hours than I care to remember but well worth it in the end. Justin

Cooler frame is now 90% complete. Began my paper templates for the shields and front ducting.


Outer mount rail now completed.


In for what would many test fits. The outer bolt/clamp will be placed right there where the upper and lower rails come together. Again no modification will be required to the brace once finished.


Outer mount clamp with spacer bracket complete. A collar clamp will be welded to the cross brace mounting it onto the neck bucket. Will be rock solid after that.


Cooler sits level against the fender brace. You can see the out-rigger thread plate and the outer bolt and spacer which make up this non evasive clamp.

Here is my only shot of original carrera alloy shielding for the cooler. Will make mine very similar though specialized for my application.

Here is my own version of the lower shield. Very similar but I followed the contour of the feander brace more closely.

Here is where that outer stand-off / mount I made comes in. Spaces the shield evenly across. Working on the upper portion templates next.