1957 Sandblasted Coupe

[bbspdstr]

Thanks for your post Bruce.

I have the "improved" floor pan from Stoddard and can post a pic with measurements if needed.

I am always willing to admit that there is always something new I can learn in any aspect of the 356 world. While I was unaware of a more (at least half) appropriate floor pan for an A model from Stoddard Parts, this thread has made me aware and ..... 'viola'...there is one now on their website.

I can say my previous posting is still suspiciously apropos, as the spread you show (above) appears to show a Galvaneal rear pan, such as what Resto Resign offers and to which I posted a link.(This is wrong, please see below)

I like the use of the word "Improved" for the rear IF that's a reselling of an RD part....but the proprietary front half still looks like the transverse 'hump' is still too high to fit under/through the tunnel like an original...and if a rubber floor mat is put over it, the seat pans don't usually adjust and the answer is to trim the mat.....jus' sayin'. Getting that half-round changed would be a REAL "improvement." (Please correct me if I'm wrong.)(I'm correcting myself: the picture shows that the too-much-of-a-true-half-round transverse part of center 'clam-shell' would be underneath and the "improved" rear pan has the better upper transverse center. I now hear that the "improved" rear is made for Stoddard in the US, not Canada, by the same outfit that made the original 'high-hump' pan halves! I should have waited for better intel, sorry.)

Another edit; I am now hearing that the rear pan rear depressions may also have a slightly deeper draw than even the Simonsen pans do, so I ordered one to measure against originals. These threads bring out the worst (me) and best of things (new intel) when I/we make waves.

Back to Steve...thanks for the opportunity for clarity on such an important detail. BTW, the work displayed here in restoration befits Justin's site and his own attitude. Keep it real and keep it FUN!

While typing this, I had a call from a good customer and referred him to abcgt.com with my observation of the mutually respectful nature here and the incredible entertainment value. He seemed to like that concept and seemed quite interested in "checking it out."

We all need to keep spreading the word!

-Bruce

[Phil Planck]

Just had to throw this pic in. I had rust on the inner metal also. Patch piece had a familiar shape:




My repro part from Stoddard(T6fit pretty well, but this was 15 years ago:

[ukinusa]

Seasons greeting to one and all - off to UK today see grand-kids. So will back "at it" in January. Again my appreciation to all for the help and guidance - couldn't do it with out that support (Will be in the Brighton area if anyone needs an excuse for a pint! )

[merbesfield]

Bruce, not sure if this was mentioned in this thread, but I used the Stoddard front pan you show above and then bought the front toe/foot section from RD. The Stoddard pan did not fit the RD curvatures on the side edge where the meet. I had to do a good bit of hand work to mate them up. Based on the old pans I pulled out I felt like the curve on the RD part was correct so I followed it vs the other way around. After speaking w RD, they told me they do not actually make the footwell part. Not sure where they get it and also not sure if their pan would have mated to the footwell better. In the end it all requires hand work so I'd moved forward and did what was needed to copy my originals.

[bbspdstr]

.......In the end it all requires hand work so I'd moved forward and did what was needed to copy my originals.

Truer words cannot be spoken.

That area where the front corners of the floor meet the lower outer corners of the bulkhead is tougher than it looks like it should be, but there are compound curves at work, so that makes US work harder than we'd like to in an area where it's difficult to work.

As the bar gets raised for accuracy in work on 356s, I realize how easy things were 50 years ago when old license plates, pop rivets, road signs and fiberglass was all that was required to just get a 356 back on the road for everyday driving. I can't even see the ramp or lift that got them on the pedestals they are found on now.

Merry and Happy Holidays to all! I have been AWOL due to personal matters (death in the family) but when that allows me to "move forward," I'll be back.

-Bruce

[ukinusa]

OK back at it after over a month off ...decided to go back and finish of the longitudinal now I have the front sections repaired. (I have also cut the rest of the floor out so another reason to get some rigidity back in the car asap.
Spent time reacquainting myself of where I had left off. Setting the inner rocker up and the jack spur in about the right position, (it will need to move). Will test fit the outer rocker tomorrow so I can verify the height of the jack spurt and then do some tack welding to make sure it's all true still. Closing this all up is a major step for me and makes me a little apprehensive but excited too !

[JTR70]

Freshly mounted closing panels are enough to brighten anyone's day. Looking good Steve!

[ukinusa]

Sometimes it ain't worth getting up ! So there I was standing on one of the rails my frame with the car on its side to reach an "awkward spot"; and frame suddenly collapsed. No one to blame but my self as I made it . The problem was that I ground the weld joints down too far and weakened them. The car came down to the floor on it side and wrapped the rear fender around the box tube with nice crease.


Got the frame upright and welded the cracks - frame is twisted but solid - the crease largely popped out but will need dressing to get it back where it should be. Nothing like adding to the work list !
Moral: check all the joints for failure cracks once in a while and don't grind down more than is essential - ain't no use being pretty if it's going to fail !

[ukinusa]

So frame disasters apart, I managed to finally close up the longitudinal (apart for door well area) and started repositioning the jack spur, of course I needed to temporally clamp on the rocker to see how the spur was going to present.
To "high" at the top...

so had to remove some metal there.


The upper weld seam on square end catching on the rocker

So trimmed that to fit...


Ended up with about 12-13 mm of gap - Roland in the book say 1/4" plus so I think I going with it as it is, the curve of the jack point is pretty snug against the longitudinal, so happy with that too.

[John Pierce]

Oh man, that really sucks! Sorry that happened to you. I had one of my welds also crack. I was standing on it at the time.... So a good reason. Hang in there.

JP

[JOP]

Well Steve atleast you are in one piece thats whats counts!
There is allways guys getting crushed under their cars while doing somekind of work

When I did my frame I think I might have overdone it .... You could hang a small truck on it ( maybe a BIG one ).....

The fender looks like it would be a easy one to pull out.

Thank you for being so honest and sharing your unfortune with us that might help others.

/ JOP

[Phil Planck]

Bummer Steve. Hope the fender repair is not to hard to do. Rest is looking good.
Phil

[merbesfield]

That really sucks. Personally, I don't grind my rotisserie welds (maybe a tiny bit) and brace all of them for this reason. Look at it this way, positive, just more to practice on.

[JTR70]

Sorry to see that cage fail on you there Steve. Your post had me double checking that stand I just built. Glad you weren't hurt and the car not too banged up in the process. Keep up the great progress!
Justin

[roy mawbey]

Steve,

I bet that frightened you, as said above the warning is now clear to others and so important for every one to know. It could have been far worse if part of you were under it. Like the work you are doing and the effort required to put all info on the forum.

Pleased the crease is almost out.

Roy