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In re-reading the door fit part of this thread, I feel the need to suggest that the door fit itself is the first and most critical step.
Gaps, sight-lines, levels all done, one panel to another on each side of the car. The flow of the curves is always an "eye" thing.
Shimming hinges if necessary, getting the latches and strikers adjusted so that when the door is gently tugged, it's level to the quarter panel and likewise the trailing edge of the front fender.....THEN the dealings with the seal(s) and the mock-up thereto can begin. Seal channels can be modified or relocated, seals may be modified....even if the original build showed none of that was needed and only thin foam shims were used to help get good contact with the inner door and window frame. Were the original assemblers that good or did repetitive tasks just make for better assessment of needs?
I, too have marked and measured original 356s and reset doors as they were only to find poor fits and the need to start from scratch. Very frustrating, but I attribute that to a multitude of minor or major wear factors in hinges and pins, strikers and latches and also that less notice was made of how things actually worked and fit prior to disassembly. Was there a droop or drop when opened, a nice "thunk" when pushed closed from 100mm out without a follow-through? Were the original seals petrified into a 'perfect' gap?
A true 'restoration' needs to take into consideration every part and every interface, every potential need for a replacement part, usually a reproduction. What cost is involved? What level of "newness" is desired or affordable?
Last year, I was given a T-6 Roadster to restore from a nasty core example. It came with 4 bent, twisted and rusted doors, 2 left and 2 right, only one with a "match number." It would have been difficult to get 2 out of the 4 with Trevor's (or other) skins and donor parts from other used doors. Deconstruction, blasting, jigging, assembly and fitting and the like would have been expensive. Would they be "Just like new"? I'd hope so, but I am not equipped with the jigs the Factory used, so it would be a gamble.
Courtesy of another Twin Grille Roadster owner, my friend Ed Ek, I was led to an ad for a set of NOS doors. Ten grand! Still, I convinced the owner (of the car at my place) to buy them, as everything else front and rear, depended on them. Now, I think the client got one hell of a deal, as they came with both halves of the hinge and a new pin...a brand new reference point on each side of a difficult restoration.
I'll deal with the seals for the doors and the top frame as I go, but always hate fitting those windshields!
Bruce
Gaps, sight-lines, levels all done, one panel to another on each side of the car. The flow of the curves is always an "eye" thing.
Shimming hinges if necessary, getting the latches and strikers adjusted so that when the door is gently tugged, it's level to the quarter panel and likewise the trailing edge of the front fender.....THEN the dealings with the seal(s) and the mock-up thereto can begin. Seal channels can be modified or relocated, seals may be modified....even if the original build showed none of that was needed and only thin foam shims were used to help get good contact with the inner door and window frame. Were the original assemblers that good or did repetitive tasks just make for better assessment of needs?
I, too have marked and measured original 356s and reset doors as they were only to find poor fits and the need to start from scratch. Very frustrating, but I attribute that to a multitude of minor or major wear factors in hinges and pins, strikers and latches and also that less notice was made of how things actually worked and fit prior to disassembly. Was there a droop or drop when opened, a nice "thunk" when pushed closed from 100mm out without a follow-through? Were the original seals petrified into a 'perfect' gap?
A true 'restoration' needs to take into consideration every part and every interface, every potential need for a replacement part, usually a reproduction. What cost is involved? What level of "newness" is desired or affordable?
Last year, I was given a T-6 Roadster to restore from a nasty core example. It came with 4 bent, twisted and rusted doors, 2 left and 2 right, only one with a "match number." It would have been difficult to get 2 out of the 4 with Trevor's (or other) skins and donor parts from other used doors. Deconstruction, blasting, jigging, assembly and fitting and the like would have been expensive. Would they be "Just like new"? I'd hope so, but I am not equipped with the jigs the Factory used, so it would be a gamble.
Courtesy of another Twin Grille Roadster owner, my friend Ed Ek, I was led to an ad for a set of NOS doors. Ten grand! Still, I convinced the owner (of the car at my place) to buy them, as everything else front and rear, depended on them. Now, I think the client got one hell of a deal, as they came with both halves of the hinge and a new pin...a brand new reference point on each side of a difficult restoration.
I'll deal with the seals for the doors and the top frame as I go, but always hate fitting those windshields!
Bruce
For 15 years you have given me wise counsel - most of which I have heeded. The one I did not was to throw away the crappy rockers and get a good set. I have paid the price.
Nice work! Is that another coupe project I see laying on its side?
Nice work!
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