SC Coupe Restoration

[tperazzo]

Thanks guys, this car has given me lots of practice. I'm grateful of all the things my 356 has taught me along the way. My welds didn't start out like that for sure.

Nothing is easy though as I expected my rear bumper to bolt on with excellent fit since it wasn't nearly as damaged as the front was.

I straightened the bumper brackets so that they were parallel to the car and straight. I learned from the front bumper that it's no fun to fight a springy bumper bracket because it's pointing the wrong way.

I centered the bumper so that the exhaust cutouts were lined up.





The passenger side doesn't fit well with the body.


It sticks out almost 1.5 inches on the side of the car that has had no rear fender damage.

The drivers side is better and will probably draw in when the rubber spacers and hardware is installed.



I don't want to kink or distort the bumper so it looks like I'm with Trevor and will section it.

Didn't expect this would be needed on an original part. I did hammer and dolly several dents out but don't think I stretched it that much.

Crazy old cars!
Tom

[Trevor]

That's an easy fix for you Tom. Jack and I had the exact same problem a few months back, except it was "only" out 1 inch from where we considered ideal to be. Use a cut off disc and cut a slice through the bumper around where the end piece attaches to the middle; underneath the bumper guard. You wouldn't think it (I didn't... but Jack did), that just taking out the thickness of metal equal to the cutoff disc would make an impact but it tucked the bumper in by an inch. Of course you can always widen your cut to take out more metal and tucking the bumper in to the fender more - if necessary. Start with a thin cut off disc, that way your gap will be good when you go to TIG it back together. You have to make the cut top and bottom to get the bumper to move easily, but leave the middle (where the deco strip goes) alone. I didn't take a pic of the location where we cut, sorry! I hope this is clear.

[Jack Staggs]

Don't forget, Tom, that the fender can be moved around a bit where it meets up with the bumper for final fit by adjusting the short link on the end of the rear fender brace that the bolt goes through to the rubber doughnuts.
Good job lining up the exhaust cutouts. You might be surprised how many cars fail there.

[bbspdstr]

The angle of the bumper tip needs to be close to parallel with the indented surface of the quarter panel. A simple cut-n-fold may change the geometry in an undesirable way when an inch is involved. Please be careful.

I never throw a bumper away (at least the outer shell) because no matter how one side is hit, the other or one of the three parts is usually savable. Not too difficult to de-construct the overlaps and build a bumper that actually fits any particular car, at least if the quarters are measured and similar from a centerline. (Through the hole, side-to-side.)

The bumpers for a B/C are VERY adjustable; laterally, up-down and in/out. What one wants to avoid is 'force-fitting.'

-Bruce

[tperazzo]

Thanks guys for the advice and I'm a little relieved that I'm not the only one.

I already cut it so that I could make it work the best for me. This is one of those things that I want to be happy with because that spacing is such a easy thing for the eye to see.



Tacked back in place without any side bolt pressure.



I may alter the other side a bit, but only after I get the hardware installed and do another final adjustment.

I can't thank Romance with Rust enough for talking me out of painting the car without trial fitting all this stuff. So many details like this have cropped up that would have killed me if it was already painted. Several here have imparted the same advice. I still have several details to go before I take it anywhere else.

Thanks,
Tom

[JTR70]

That's really fitting nice now Tom! Remember just a few posts ago when you were wondering if you might be done welding on this thing?
Keep up the great work...you're getting closer to paint all the time!
Justin

[tperazzo]

"Remember just a few posts ago when you were wondering if you might be done welding on this thing? "
I know it's a good thing I didn't give away that welder yet



So here's the spacing I'm at without any pressure from the side bolts.












I think it's a compromise between how the factory did it and how I like it. As Jack said in another post the spacing is tight in the middle and ends. Then it widens as is goes around the corners.

It's kind of hard to take pictures of the air gaps. You might be able to see the measurements written on the bumper.

I'm waiting for the rubber donuts to synch it up better. I will also dig up the guards and lights from storage and install them.

Also the fender to frame dimensions through the hole is 8 3/4" on one side and 9" on the other. The fender brace brackets can easily push the fenders around plus minus 1/4".

This bumper wasn't happy until it was removed and installed at least a dozen times.
Happy Memorial Day.
Tom

[John Pierce]

Tom,

The gaps are very pleasing to the eye with nice and smooth curvatures. Great work.


JP

[Trevor]

[quote="tperazzo" post=33832]This bumper wasn't happy until it was removed and installed at least a dozen times.
Happy Memorial Day.
Tom[/quote

Looks really nice Tom. Happy Memorial Day to you too.

[Jack Staggs]

[quote="tperazzo" post=33832]This bumper wasn't happy until it was removed and installed at least a dozen times.
Happy Memorial Day.
Tom[/quote

Hahaha! That's how we do it too! Trevor got lucky on the end splice on Craig's front bumper. Only had it off twice, IIRC. Once for welding, once for grinding (or "sanding", as he calls it), no further adjustments required.
Really good to see you back at it after a well deserved break. Carry on...

PS Bruce: I save all those precious old bumper pieces as well.

[tperazzo]

Thanks guys. There is still one nagging detail after everything lines up well along the back and the cutouts, sides, etc.

Just like Trevor and Jack were saying about the front bumpers, I have the wrap around distance problem on the rear. I like how the drivers side flows with the fender indent.




But the passenger side is a bit short.



When I cut and re-welded the section under the bumper guard I mostly narrowed the bumper and tilted it in a bit which I don't think affected the length that is parallel with side of the car.

Even though I can't see both sides of the car at once, I'm still thinking I should fix it.

What do you guys think? Leave it alone or no?
Tom

[John Pierce]

Tom: knowing your perfection to details this will bother you. I think no matter what we say you would still fix it. No one but you would probably notice it, but since you've come this far, what's another couple of welds?!!


JP

[Don C]

+1...fix it.

[JTR70]

I call "Bull shit". You were never going to leave that...no way!

So what is the fix, is the problem in the bumper or in the fender? Are the detents left and right equal distance from the wired lip? If so, my guess is you've already sawed through the tip of that bumper.
Its all coming together really nice Tom!
Justin

OOPS! Just reread your last post and you already explained it was in your bumper mod. Okay, I'm now up to speed.

[tperazzo]

I haven't sawed off my bumper yet, but it's inevitable...maybe today.

The problem is both the fenders and the bumper. The right side indent varies 3/8" from the left side when measured to the wheel arch.

My solution will be to lengthen the bumper only by about 3/4"

Crazy how these cars differ from side to side.

I thought repro parts were a PITA, this original bumper is just as bad!
Tom