Coupe into Speedster Conversion

[merbesfield]

So when you use the torch does it just heat the mig blob and sort of flow out? What type of torch? What are you using to finish grind your welds? I use a 2" air grinder w mostly 36 grit and then follow w medium scotch bright metal surface conditioning discs. I have found that 3M, tho pricier lasts 3 times as long as the cheap pads. I lucked into a particular 3M 36 that is amazing. It keeps exposing new grit as it wears and works very well. My buddy Scott takes all my old pads and keeps using them even after I am too inpatient to keep using them.

[JTR70]

Thanks again Roy!
Metalwork without a MIG?? I suppose I'd have to improve my gas welding skills real quick. A capacity aircompressor and a wire welder are literally my right and left hands; production would get really tight without either. I am shocked you did not run right out and buy one after trying your friends MIG out...

Yes Mark, I just let the MIG blobs flow right out with the torch. I just use a standard Victor handtorch for this.

I use the 3M Roloc system as well but I take down 90% of the weld shoulder with a cutting wheel.(wheel and end stage pictured) Since the welds are harder than the surrounding steel leveling them first makes the roloc stage much cleaner. It also saves rolocs.

If I have a clean shot at it I prefer to do this initial leveling phase with my electric grinder

I then use my angle grinder with rolocs to finish the joint.

I too have tried all the cheap cutting wheels and disc's. They just don't last and I think its more cost effective in the long run to go with the good stuff. My very wise friend and mentor Greg Parker gave me this pearl of wisdom many years ago: "Buy the best and cry only once"
As the years roll by I am finding out more and more how right he was about alot of things. Justin

[Restomod]

I do almost the same thing but like to use the 4.5" 120 grit flap disc on the large areas after griding the top off the weld. I have some of the 2" discs but only use them on hard to rach areas.
I am also cheap...I but the el cheapo cutting and grinding discs from HF or ebay. Yeah its hit of miss on how long the last.

[merbesfield]

[quote="Restomod" post=8995]I do almost the same thing but like to use the 4.5" 120 grit flap disc on the large areas after griding the top off the weld. I have some of the 2" discs but only use them on hard to rach areas.
I am also cheap...I but the el cheapo cutting and grinding discs from HF or ebay. Yeah its hit of miss on how long the last.

flap disc work well, but also take a lot of surrounding metal so I quit using them. W the 2" I am able to take only the weld bead and not touch the old steel. Everyone has their little tricks.

[tperazzo]

Great work here as usual Justin. Just read the whole thread and the attention to detail is great. Original methods and shapes used everywhere. Good job.

About the Gas versus MIG debate, you guys gotta check out TIG....a nice blend of the two. One thing I don't miss is grinding down welds, ha ha.

[JTR70]

Thanks alot Tom! I appreciate you taking the time to scan through it all so far. I would LOVE to get my hands on a TIG! Its definitely on my wish list; One day soon... Thanks again! Justin

6/30/13
Addressing the left forward frame section.

Chassis has now been flipped on its right side so I now have a clear shot at this left forward section.

Strut brace cut free here. This side should go a little quicker with the toe-board section already in position. Thanks for looking! Justin

[Erik H]

Watching you guy's threads makes me appreciate how close I am to having my car back on the road and how fortunate I am to have a car that was 98% rust free to start with. Erik

[Restomod]

I had a TIG I used for making stainless headers. The thing about TIG is its HARD to do, laying down a smooth weld even harder. I cant immagine how long it would take to TIG all the bottom metal work that goes into one of these cars with all the extra fitting to get the gap tight......
Then again it takes time to grind it all to......

[JTR70]

Erik you are certainly living the dream! To own a real speedster would be special enough but one that is rust free is almost an impossible find. You are very lucky indeed!

Hey Brock, I understand what you're saying; always the trade off as with anything but I'd still like to get one for at least the capability of welding alloy. Justin
Left forward repair section tacked in. 7/1/13

Rough trial fitments again for the new panel. Relief cuts have been made on the flange to achieve that gracefull curve. If I owned shinking and stretching jaws I could have avoided making those cuts. Yet more tools I'd really like to have. Another tool added to my list.

This side is just a bit rustier than the right side. The cancer along the splash pan mount flange runs higher than the perimeter kit. A seperate patch is required.

Both the frame and the new section have now been prepped and trimmed to fit so I can begin tacking it in.

New section tacked in this afternoon. Will finish stitching it up tomorrow. Thanks for looking! Justin

[merbesfield]

I don't quite know why, but like a moth to flame I am drawn to the welding and fabrication required to restore these old cars. Not so much the wrenching and grease on the mechanical side. Funny how that is.

[roy mawbey]

Mark,

I am the same as you. Mechanical items for me become more fun if you can start to make them rather than clean and assemble or buy new parts. Its always nice to repair and get a good result but bodywork is a bit like art, most people can paint a picture but it only becomes a good picture, when everyone likes to look at it.

Trouble is Mark, I need a lathe, milling machine, surface grinder and cylindrical grinder, a Mig welder a small press...... I am retired, my wife already wants me to downsize on garage equipement. I therefore have to be content to look at the major bodywork restorations on here and maybe come to the conclusion good results don't arrive without a lot headaches and a tired body.

Its so nice just to see all you guys, producing such nice work and taking the trouble to detail on here how you do it.

Roy

[Restomod]

Roy, your wife wants you do downsize the shop?? I bet you will miss her but when the new equipement starts coming in you will feel better!
J/K LOL!!

[JTR70]

I too am drawn more toward the welding fabrication side than the engine/ mechanical side of it. I have a basic working knowledge and could probably assemble and engine but I could not "build" one. I buddy of mine shared the meaning of that distinct difference with me. Engine builders find ways to tweak and squeeze out more power and efficiency.
7/3/13


Stitch welds all but finished here.

Installing the T1 Style reinforcement runner on this side. Just about ready to button this up. This side went pretty quick for a nice change.
Thanks for looking! Justin

[JTR70]

7/5/13
Right side lower forward repair complete.


Finished welding up the T1 style reinforcement runner this afternoon.

Test fitting the new diagonal brace.

Will try and get this tacked in tomorrow. Thanks for looking! Justin

[DG58INNM]

Looking good Justin. Always like to admire your work. I'm with you on the welding/fabrication thing. Although I started doing the mechanical end of things and am very familiar with that, I only embarked on the metalwork after the frustration of the botched "expert" repairs done on 104006. I looked at it and figured I sure couldn't do any worse and dove in. Found it to be really rather fascinating and pleasant work. Banging tin in the shop!
DG