1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[roy mawbey]

Interesting Justin this method of fitting ther new brace mounts. I must look to see if my 59 ( produced around Feb of that year has those spline relief shpes in thre buckets. To get that assembly fitted you would think it would be welded in as one piece. Just one more thing you found out by experience on that Coupster it went better in two pieces.

The same best wishes to you all for Christmas and the New Year !

Roy

[JTR70]

The example is from my fathers old 901. A late production '65 / model year '66. Note the last three digits of its chassis number where stamped into the buckets. So technically the 363rd 911 for 1966. Didn't think the factory was still numbering body components to a chassis this late in the game.

Anyway, prepping for the fender braces:
Will be fitting and installing the braces in two pieces. Fitment and placement goes much easier and cleaner with the conduit and horn mount separated from the lower sections. Another lesson learned during the coupster build.
Harvesting and reusing the original brace tabs from the old nose.
Being heavier gage they survived just fine and will only need some restrengthening.
Begin cutting the new braces apart at the horn mount. Notice the lazered in precuts at the end of this brace? The manufactures no doubt thought this was a handy feature to make our lives easier. In reality it just added another correction step as I'd have to weld and dress those runs. More on that next.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Always appreciate your comments and feedback Roy. Exactly, there is a lot all going on at once. I can only equate to developing a picture, little by little shapes and details steadily come into focus not to mention what the next series of steps will be to achieve that. Great observation, the cellette bench has been an incredible reference point along the way. Thanks again Roy, Merry Christmas to you and your family! Justin

Begin adding the lateral attachment points.
Nose fitment against the latched hood continues in the right direction. Only a single screw securing here at its center.
Time to begin adding some lateral attachments to further shore up its position. Begin fender brace install.
Almost time to introduce the original headlight buckets as it goes.
The OG buckets have only some mild rust and accident damage; definitely savable. BTW these have a unique spine relief shape along the bottom. My OG T1 and '58 T2 buckets do not have this so I assume this is another 356B transitional change.
Early 901's share the same bucket shell and this lower spine relief shape though softer, can still be seen in the example above.

[roy mawbey]

Justin, this work of yours really makes me think that thank goodness I am not faced with that fromt hood closure work. I know you said the Coupster helped you with the understanding of what to do, but this is not easy work at all. I have to say the Cellete fixture sitting in the background of thr photos makes me realise that datum is always there whatever you do. And with all that previous frontal damage without that Cellete security of mind how could you proceeed with confidence?
The hood to fender gaps are so important to get right and with so much sheet metal work to acheive that on this car, my mind boggles a bit in even following some of what you are attempting. I guess with it all in front of you its a bit easier to work out the next moves but, its certainly not easy an easy task. I look forward to ther next steps !

Well done!

Roy

[JTR70]

Dialing in the final closing wall upper mounting flange height.
Aside from getting a consistent gap the trickiest part will be positioning this upper flange run in exactly the right the height to mount and hold stepped edges of both the fender and the nose to carry on the line of the latched hood. Don't have the luxury of bolts and spacer shims after the fact as with most car bodies.
Hood latched and now dialing in an approximate distance that compensates for the step down into the jamb. Another critical adjustment is in that corner lap joint, both the height and flange position are changed dramatically with their relation to one another. Another small window into all that is going in positioning this front end group into the sweet spot.
Last several inches of the lefts upper flange closes down to nothing against the latched hood. This is old residual accident/ "repair" damage and will need reshaping to create the needed space for the stepped flange. Another adjustment made a lot easier with the left fender out of the way.
Front end mock up dismantled so I could beat and reshape that section of the flange to the needed height in relation to the ltached hood.
Mocked up with nose and its flange so I can begin the preliminary fitting of this new walls height. Finally be able to add a set screw or two to begin locking in the final needed position. More on this to come.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Dialing in and fine tuning the gap.
Could not move further into gap setting as the leading edge of this nose was just too broad and soft.
The finished edged should be sharp and clean around the edge of the hood.
Though a lot of that final shape was done lead now was the time sharpen up that detail to reduce the need for filler to achieve that shape. Hammering that edge tighter at starting at the center. Poker highlights the profile shape it began as..
Leading edge planished to much crisper line.
With the shoulder now closer to final shape I could dial in the nose a little further. BTW this was only at the center and about 4-5 inches outward to each side. The gap closed up quickly as it went high around the hood. The rest of the run would have to be cut and reshaped around the edge of the hood. This was just some place to begin.

Onto the next step in mounting this nose.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Nose installation continued.
Initial mock up with the left fenders edge out of my way.
Hood reinstalled and latched. Nose is slightly off center but is dictated by the edges of the trough for the moment. That gap and overhang on the right lower turn there would prove tougher to eliminate as the dialing in phase continued.
Slight underbite though much improved. The profile line of the hood was getting better as well.
The OG closing wall was holding the lip of the nose about a quarter inch too high so it would have to be messaged down as well. Now possible and mush easier wth the fender out of the way.
This was the way I ended up building the front end on the coupster project. Without dedicated holding jigs the fenders were just too floppy and kept changing shape and gap width as I tried to mount them. Once the nose was set I was no longer trying to accurately fit something hanging out in space.

Same rule now applying to this build.

Thanks for looking.

Justin

[JTR70]

Thanks Roy, it was the best way forward. This is the way I installed the nose on the coupster project. Logic would dictate that you build outward but I found it much better to set and mount the nose first then "backfill" and bridge with the fenders. There is so much going on with the nose and its placement in relation to the latched hood that I found it much simpler to set that first then build backwards from there if you're reinstalling one or both fenders BTW. All of that coming next. Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin I was wondering and wondering ,just what you were going to do my friend with that problem. I think that was the only way forward! So much effort but I can see it working out okay. These 356 cars really can make your brain work at times. Do hope it gets sorted out okay not an easy job and both you and I won't forget it ( Well you certainally won't !!)
Roy

[JTR70]

Left fender removal:

Taking a step back to move forward.
After much debate I decided that the left fender was now in the way and complicating the final nose placement. Factory spot welds all drilled out here. Had there been no rust issues at the rear leading edge of this fender and the lateral gap with the hood still been within spec I would have certainly worked around it but after factoring in its current state the prudential thing was removal.
The typical rust down run the leading edge of the fender with swelling at the antenna. Lots of sleeping rot that hasn't breached yet but the entire run needs cleaning and repair. Once this eventual patch panel was factored in there would be very little "connective tissue" holding this fender on. Just the short run across the cowl highlighted in marker for cutting.
Fender removed and though it does not look like it my life got a lot easier.
Clear shot at the splash pan for cleaning and rust repairs. Rusty of course but not as rotted as I suspected but I'll know more once I start cleaning. Cowl was cut matching the right side for the best access to back for planishing once its rewelded.
Fender lip peeled and removed in one shot. Just keeping my options open for a smaller repair. Again I'll know for sure once this rust is cleaned off to see how much steel is left.

[JTR70]

Nose fitment continues:
Nose set screwed into next staged position with the hood fully latched.
Gap at the center starts out ok but soon closes up as it makes its way around on both sides.
Overbite is reducing with a better profile but a ways yet to go.
The left side gap and contour shape was matching pretty well from the start but the right side by contrast was all over the place with a problematic transition along that right lower turn.
I wrestled with the fitment a for while but it was becoming clear that left side fender was now interfering due to the overlap. This was only one a several problems I'd later figure out as the nose fitment continued. Covering some of that next.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

I bought that from the Eastwood Co. a few years ago Roy. Its been a very useful flange crimping tool and does a clean job of closing them tight. Thanks again! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin, very interesting process to get this trimming correct. My eagle eyes spotted the tool I had never seen before the ' the door skin installer ' which you mentioned in the last paragraph. Never seen one before or not noticed one in use. I can see exactly why that would work well! I think I could modify a tool Ihave to do that never seen one form sale or not realised what it was for.

No easy task but its really coming along well !!!

Roy

[JTR70]

Next series of mock ups and fine trimming to get the new nose to sit in just the right mounted spot.
Forward closing wall was remounted and the nose was allowed to move a little closer still into the needed position. Clamped and dismounted for another round of fine trimming.
conservatively trimmed and the mock up was repeated once again to see where the gap and alignment with the edge of the latched hood was.
Closer but not quite there yet. The mating surfaces were at least close enough for a set screw.
Dismounted again and ready for another trim for clearance along this shoulder for a flush mating surface fit. A very tedious and repetitive stage but this was the dialing in process.
As the trimming process went now was as good a time as any to begin pinching the leading edge over as originally done. Door skin installer worked nicely for this little chore. The edge was then followed up with a hammer/dolly to tighten it further. It was a nice break in the monotony. More later...
Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Back then Roy you were spoiled for choice. It would have been complete insanity to rebuild the hulks that are now considered "nice projects" these days.

This front end has been quite the challenge so I've been unmotivated to rehash it as of late but I'm winning so I'll get some updates in a day or two. Thanks for stopping by to check you guys! Justin