excellent thankyou people! love the rolling jig that sits on rollers would be perfect for my space.......and wouldnt be too hard to knock up. With regards to mounting the jig, ive seen these off the shelf jigs that mount off the bumper points....is this not recommended due to twist? Im working out at this time if i want to attempt the welding myself and take longer about it rather than shelling out a ton to get it done in a short amount of time.....ive done a fair bit of mig work on cars and fabrication but never got stuck in heavily with bodywork.....id love to attempt it myself but a little daunted if i dont get it perfect i;ll be annoyed....i suppose thats where the angle grinder comes out and its re done correctly! I havnt got many metal shaping tools/english wheel/rollers etc. but i believe most parts can be bought pre formed.......plus this forum and the R site is a wealth of knowledge and info.
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Absolutely get the car and all the closing panels media blasted so you'll know exactly what you're dealing with and how far you've got to go in to get past the rot. Life is also so much nicer when you're welding repair sections onto clean metal. Put in on the rotisserie first so your blasting outfit has the ability to roll it over for a thorough cleaning.Justin Rio
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Mate, what a great project. In a sick sort of way I wish I was back at the beginning again. She'll be awesome when she's done.
I reckon if you've done another car already, it's worth giving everything a go yourself. It won't hake too may 'third attempts' before you get sick of that, and do it right the first (ok, second) times. Very satisfying. Success is made of many failures, as my dad always told me. Give it a go if you have the time.
Good plans for rotating octagonal rig on the Restoration Designs website.
Jonesy
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Here's a belated welcome to the rust club! Enjoy it and let me know if I can help with anything.
I can email you an alternate drawing to the Emory rotisserie if you want. My design is the same in principle, but all the cuts are the same angle and it isn't as tall so it would not hit my low rafter height in my small garage.
Look forward to watching!
Cheers,
Tom
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Hi gang
So got round to doing a few more hours this afternoon. Majority of the interior stripped out. Apart from the rear seats. The two screws that hold them in on the left and rhs are Seized. Tried to oil them up but I believe I may have to cut them off, will give an impact screwdriver a go first.
One question, I'm going to get the steel box rolled up for the roll over jig but wondered if people have pics of the actual mounting of there jig to the chassis front and rear. Want to see how the Emory/other people have done it and go from there.
Thx in advance
M
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You'll have to use Torch heat to have any shot of extracting those bolts in one piece. The threads are so crusty deep inside that you'll just twist it off at the shank. Bolts like that often require several rounds of heat and then some work back and fourth before their convinced to come on out. Its still no guarantee though as I've wrestled with bolts that would back out to a point then seize. Reheated again then only have it twist off at the shank. I wish you good luck with them!
JustinJustin Rio
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Anytime you have a seized bolt the best thing you can do is have patience. Soaking with a good penetrating oil for one to two days, several solid hits with a hammer to help jar it loose, applying heat sometimes to cherry red a few times, gently trying to get it to move just a little bit back & forth. Once it moves a little then plenty of back & forth with more penetrating oil usually does the trick. The key is not to force it to the point of breaking it off. Sometimes after all that it still won't come out. Then I try to cut it off leaving some sticking out so you can easily weld a nut onto the stub which usually works. If broken off flush then you also can try to weld a washer & nut to it or last resort is to drill it out, then run a tap through it.Mic
1959A coupe
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Hi,
Here's a few shots of my rotisserie.
The rear attaches to the trans hoop. There are round sleeves welded in so the square tube doesn't collapse.
Here is the front, I think it's a 1/4" thk plate welded to the square tubes.
These bars are moveable to several different locations to allow access to whatever it is you are working on. The gusset plates do stiffen the hoops.
Perhaps Steve will chime in here, but his advice was not to grind the welds smooth. Unfortunately he had one fail and caused a little damage to his car.
If you want, I have a drawing with all the dimensions I used. My contribution to the Emory rack design was to adjust the lengths so all the cuts are at the same angle and the car can be rolled with a low ceiling height.
You will love having a rotisserie as it makes everything much more pleasant.
Cheers,
Tom
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Here's my set up:
The rear is the same as Tom's at the transmission hoop bolt attachments.
The front is different as my torsion bar attachments were rotted out and had to be remade. I bent threaded rod into a loop to go around the lower torsion bar assembly.
HTH. Let me know if you've got any questions.
Johnjjgpierce@yahoo.com
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Looking good! I see you're going with the same "hamster wheel" design as Trevor Gates is using for his project. I think that was the right choice given your limited lateral space. I meant to ask Trevor a long time ago but where does a guy go for perfectly round square stock hoops?
JustinJustin Rio
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