1957 Sandblasted Coupe

[merbesfield]

Here are pics of the hammerforms Bruce sent me and the part I made with them:

Looks good. Remind me, does that lip get folded over on the back side? My car will need this piece as well.

[Phil Planck]

Yes Mark, that flange gets folded(more like hammered) flush with the inner panel. Hold a dolly on the outer as you do it.
Phil

[bbspdstr]

I usually hold the appropriate dolly behind the edge and hammer on the outer side. It doesn't need to be smashed, just firmly but gently closed over the rust-proofing primer on all aspects, right?

That is an original closing panel, BTW

On the picture above, you can see where the original inner spot welds were and the bigger hole was for the Speedster's side trim attachment.

-Bruce

[ukinusa]

As ever you folks are the best. The resources here who give your time and help to a relative newbie like myself, makes one have a greater confidence to keep on going. Although it has been said before, it is MUCH appreciated.
Steve

[Jonesy_356]

Awesome, this is exactly what I needed to re-do this for my machine (without a longitudinal curve this time. Once I have my door right I will get into it, and may ask all the dumb questions I should have asked first time!

Many thanks for sharing,

Jonesy

[roy mawbey]

Wow, what a great thread Steve is having here. The time spent by Bruce to explain is appreciated very much by me too. I had no one else to ask at the time, and to read these procedures now really interests me. Its a real pleasure to see how you guys are doing this work.There is no doubt without such useful advice, body restoration can really make you very despondent and its worrying when you don't really know what to do next.

I have looked at a number of books but nothing, I say nothing, comes close to this forum on how best to do it. No wonder everyone is told now on other forums as well, if you are starting out on 356 restoration spend a week reading the threads on ABCGT before starting possibly even before buying!!! If you don't know 356 then get the project looked at by someone who has done it before and knows the pitfalls.

Cheers guys

Roy

[John Pierce]

Very well said, Roy. The help and expertise from everyone here is so much appreciated. Thanks also to Jack and Bruce to take time from their professions to teach us.

JP

[ukinusa]

OK - this maybe be obvious but thought I would post it anyway ! I spent quite a bit of time setting the gap for the door vs the patch panel:

and we talked previously about how to create the pinch on the inner closing panel, I opted for gentle heat and hammer and dolly. It took a while but I got a nice tight pinch and not too much deformation. The biggest effect was the metal being "squeezed" out significantly, as I formed the crease...

I also lost some the vertical curve, due to hammer work on the edge - it starts to straighten it out. It previously fitted so well so had to rework that too But ended up all good.

[ukinusa]

After resetting the curve back into the patch panel and resetting it in position, I started to tack in the small patches on the rocker and welding the patch in.
BUT - HELP PLEASE - how does the lower rocker panel "gutter" (for want of better name), that folds up under the rocker, finish when it gets to the out curve of the inner wheel well finishing panel ?? (Hope that makes sense). Any pictures to help show me what to do ?
....and yes I know the welding looks rough but I not going to clean up till I know I am not going to be changing something !


and shown from underneath ... the curve of the 'gutter' dives right into that front panel...


and no, that is not a 'step' in the rocker gutter, it's an optical illusion, I actually went back and felt it just to make sure. Weird.

[JTR70]

Hey Steve,
Sorry for the late response. Mine were asymmetrical originally at that joint from side to side.

the right side had the rolled edge relaxed over the flange of the splash pan with a gas-welded seam. Because of that arrangement it trapped grime and moisture and rusted through. I replicated how it was here. The other had the splash turning much quicker away so the rolled edge didn't need relaxing but was just butted up against it as is then secured with just one spot blob of weld. If you quite picture it I can take shot of it tomorrow. That set up was more free and open so it didn't rust out like this side. hope this helps! Keep up the great work!
Justin

[ukinusa]

Humm a little confused by the picture...if you(or anyone else) has other close ups, that would be great .Thanks for responding

[Phil Planck]

Steve
Here are some shots I just took of a 63T6B(Foam Car) showing how I did it. Sample size of one. As you can see, the curl at the bottom tapers off near the splash shield on one side. The other looks likes it is still there. Not sure how the A was done - where are you Bruce? I would move the splash shield inboard to provide clearance.






Looks like I need to remove a cat whisker up there.

Phil

[tperazzo]

Here's a pic of my "C" in that area. Not sure if the crimped flange is correct or not, but that's the way it was.

[John Pierce]

Steve,

Sorry, but this area was not original on my car. The pictures that everyone has provided will definitely help me when it comes my turn! Thanks.


JP

[Trevor]

Tom's pic shows it perfect.