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1957 Sandblasted Coupe

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  • Since you only need a short pc. you can have a sheet metal fab shop roll a short length for you & then weld the seam.

    Another way is to get something close but slightly larger & cut a small strip out, then close it back together & weld the seam to give you the right diameter. Maybe 2.5" exhaust tube?
    Mic
    1959A coupe

    Comment


    • Good idea - will try and fabricate some, especially as it will end up hidden. I will have to get my pi maths memory going from school of radius /diameters and circumferences

      Although in UK eBay (thanks Drew - also in sunny Utah right by Zion NP - always welcome visitors with a Porsche 356 connection) this 60mm to 50mm reducer looks real tempting...
      http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60mm-to-50mm-Mild-Steel-Standard-Exhaust-Reducer-Connector-Pipe-Tube-/351386365102?hash=item51d0426cae:g:takAAOSwNSxVQQ9 p
      Thanks for all the support.
      Steve
      (& Tips and Advice always welcome)

      Comment


      • OK the only way to get to grips with is heater tube was to remove the rocker (which had to be done anyway) and the end closing panel, now it's so much clearer...
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        well actually not clearer at all Oe layer removed to reveal another ...argh !

        Need to work out the removal of the smaller pipe, this whole corner looks like it's coming apart. Not something I am happy about; but I opened this can of worms, so need to put back John P has some great reference pics (this week) of this area but his car is very different...PLEASE can someone remind me of where recently I saw this heat tube flange/mount being recreated - a wheel rim was mentions as a template - I just can't find it again ..

        One layer removed to reveal another ...argh !
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        Thanks for all the support.
        Steve
        (& Tips and Advice always welcome)

        Comment


        • David Gensler did a very nice repair of an A coupe:

          http://forum.porsche356registry.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=20706&hilit=104006&sid=4c6017caf14d72e99ed037e2c527e2ce&start=15


          Same with Justin:

          http://www.abcgt.com/forum/14-356-Restoration-Projects/4902-Coupe-into-Speedster-Conversion.html?limit=6&start=150


          Kustom Coach Werks of a 356A:

          http://www.kustomcoachwerks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=7784&start=195
          jjgpierce@yahoo.com

          Comment




          • Thanks for those links John, REALLY helpful. This is going to put me to the test for sure !
            Although in my defence, getting the rocker off was straightforward (well relatively !) having done the other side I guess !.

            I know I need to go slow and ask (nothing I am good at!) . So yet again (I know its getting tedious) I wouldn't venture into this black hole with out you guys here on Justins forum.)
            Thanks for all the support.
            Steve
            (& Tips and Advice always welcome)

            Comment


            • I added a few more links that may be useful.
              jjgpierce@yahoo.com

              Comment


              • Thanks for the links John!

                At first glance that can certainly be a very intimidating area there Steve; several layers of flanged metal form that junction. Fortunately your car seems to have enough left there to reverse engineer the area.
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                The coupster project didn't have much to template from.
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                I remember there being at least one intermediate reinforcement plate in there that I missed the flange detail on but corrected for the other side.
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                the outer lip of a 15' steel wheel did make for good hammer form
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                to pound out that lower shoulder embossment from. Here is the link to this phase: http://www.abcgt.com/forum/14-356-Restoration-Projects/4902-Coupe-into-Speedster-Conversion.html?limit=6&start=132
                Keep at it Steve, once you get your mind around how it sandwiches together there its not so scary.
                Justin
                Justin Rio

                Comment


                • OK its been a while - I needed to take break but felt guilty especially seeing all the work you other guys are pushing on with So with fresh mind, new motivation and looking at the resources you guys pointed me to, I have dived back in. First off was to get a pipe sorted that can be used to repair the heater tube - O'Reilly had nice exhaust stub pipe that will work well; before I cut the inner pipe rot out, I cut it approx. for length and angle approach ...

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                  It fits snuggly over the existing pipe so tempted to leave that there rather than reduce the diameter and end up with awkward end to end butt weld...


                  Now the inner side is cut out - as much as I can without total disassembly !

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                  And having cut what I can, I need to give myself some new metal to work back to - first off the inner wall and ledge for the floor is started ...needs cleaning up / dressing but sufficient for now.
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                  Thanks for all the support.
                  Steve
                  (& Tips and Advice always welcome)

                  Comment


                  • A little rustier than I thought it was going to be for you Steve but aren't they all.. Great progress!
                    Justin
                    Justin Rio

                    Comment


                    • Two days cutting welding and building up the profiles - a royal PITA; however have made good progress. I completed - almost the inner pipe and its awkward twist, and the bigger heater pipe ... both welded in side (and out) on the plates - aka bullet proof; plan is to mount the inner plate first with smaller pipe and then weld on the outer plate, the tube will slip over the existing stub tube and I can weld that as much as I can..

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                      Both in position but not fixed.

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                      I tried SO HARD (ie: hours and hours ) to make the outer flange look like the original - I just couldn't make the lip work. My solution is not as elegant (sorry Justin et al for help in this area ) but mine is way stronger instead !

                      Next is to cut the bottom two mounts of the torsion cover off and reform that double lapped steel; when that area is exposed I can get to the "rear" or the inside edge of the smaller heater pipe and weld / close that properly, impossible right now.
                      I will be able to rebuild that corner layer by layer, and will using heavy stock to give plenty of meat to weld to.

                      This area has literally given me bad dreams but I think I am seeing the light - taking a break really helped me get over my apprehension.
                      Thanks for all the support.
                      Steve
                      (& Tips and Advice always welcome)

                      Comment


                      • Nice job Steve!! That area of the car gave me nightmares also. Thanks for sharing your progress.
                        jjgpierce@yahoo.com

                        Comment


                        • Interesting thread Steve. I had seen it when you first started, but had failed to follow it for a while. You sure managed to find some strange repro metal pieces along the way. The RD front frame reinforcement was just plain weird!

                          I remember well making the thru-the-frame heat tube repair pieces for my '58. Its a real boooger to get the right angles/lengths of the 3 sections correct. Took me several tries. You are making good progress.
                          Good luck,
                          DG

                          Comment


                          • Not elegant like some others on this site but good and strong ! Half way through:
                            The inner plate and smaller pipe installed and primed with welding primer...(& will be painted in POR15 before its all closed up)
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                            Setting up the "outer" plate larger heater tube; thank goodness I still have the two upper mounts on the torsion bar cover to give me specific positions.
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                            Thanks for all the support.
                            Steve
                            (& Tips and Advice always welcome)

                            Comment


                            • OK floor panels from Simonsens via ZIMS arrived...they look great but haven't got into the fine details; just pleased another part of the jigsaw is here. (see back pages 15/16 +/- on vendor panel comparisons)

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                              Thanks for all the support.
                              Steve
                              (& Tips and Advice always welcome)

                              Comment


                              • [quote="ukinusa" post=33046]OK floor panels from Simonsens via ZIMS arrived...they look great but haven't got into the fine details; just pleased another part of the jigsaw is here. (see back pages 15/16 +/- on vendor panel comparisons)





                                [/quote

                                You may also think ahead and be able to use seam sealer in certain locations once you have applied POR and allowed it to dry. I would hose it on, but it will take a while to throughly dry. As you said, no one will ever see this ever again. Hopefully. Keep up the good work and the motivation for us all.
                                Attached Files
                                Mark Erbesfield
                                57 356A
                                65 911
                                68 912
                                73 911S
                                66 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ45LV
                                79 450SL Dad's old car

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