'63 356B T-6 Rebuild

[roy mawbey]

John

Well done, you have done a great looking job there!!

Roy

[Scott B]

Mark, your attention to detail is awesome. Those pics are great - looks better than factory fresh. Keep up the great effort.

Scott

[John Pierce]

Thanks guys! It feels great to be at this milestone.



Dash, foot wells and under the dash primered.



Cockpit done.



Rear seats and firewall.

Time to start fitting the seat mounts, rails and seats. I was looking closely at my seats and they originally came with head rests though I'm missing some of the metal pieces and the head rests themselves. Does anyone know who makes these or where to get OEM's as the regular sources don't have them?

Thanks.

[JOP]

[JTR70]

The floors and all the detail work just looks amazing John! As time passes we all have a tendency to forget so I went back and had a look at the first few pages of your build. I was quickly reminded just how bad the old repair attempts where and what a mess it was to remove all that fish-plating and those giant weld seams. You've done a fantastic job here and you should be very proud of your accomplishment! Keep up the great work! BTW: do you still own the Cobra?
Justin

[DG58INNM]

Very Nice job, John. Enjoying your posts and photos, as always.
DG

[213532]

I think the headrests are available from Autos International and perhaps Bob Campbell.

Mike

[Don C]

Looks great!

[John Pierce]

Thanks all! Justin, I ended up selling the Cobra as I wasn't using it as much as I thought I would. Still thinking about what to do with the $$.....

Don posted a warning about a month ago regarding the Restoration Design front seat rail mount's caged nut being turned 90 degrees to where it should be. This won't allow good side to side adjustment. Bruce mentioned that the hole should also be oval and not round.


Restoration Design on left and OEM on right. Picture from Don.



A little drilling took care of the cage removal.



The drilled out welds were filled. The cage and nut were spot welded back in place, but 90 degrees from as bought. The hole was made oval. Check. Check. Check. One less thing to worry about.



The rear seat rail mounts also had round holes that needed fixing.

Now to start mocking up the seat rails.

JP

[JOP]

Eve John,

Did you ever get RD attention on their faulty part?

To save the next poor guy to have a #%<>% to get the seats in.
I havent seen or heard "Alex" anything from RD that sometimes writes here.

We are lucky to have observant readers with a loooong history of renovation on this site

/ JOP

[John Pierce]

I was thinking the same thing. Justin: do you have Alex's email and if so can you send him a link to this page?

Thanks.

JP

[bbspdstr]

Did anyone check to see if the RD front 'pods' could just have been turned 90*? It's a level part with the only bias left and right with the originals having a lateral oval for adjustment, the repro having a hole that may have been as round as the original oval was wide.

I have posted before that I always check the height of the 'pods' to see if the tunnel seat rails are parallel in plan and elevation. The rears are usually the most troublesome when the 'draw' of the rear floor pan is not deep enough and throws off the balance.

Here's the next use for the digital inclinometer, the lower tracks and a bare seat bottom with upper rails.

The round repro T-6 front seat mounts are just wrong...at least for today's attention to detail and the repros in general are thinner gauge than the originals....but John, your over-trimmed original would be that much more trouble to add to your great results so far.

-Bruce

[John Pierce]

Hi Bruce. Yes, the RD mount could've been turned 90 degrees and I wouldn't have had to go through all those machinations. But......it wouldn't have been correct. It's all about how anal you wanna be

[Jack Staggs]

[quote="bbspdstr" post=33743]I have posted before that I always check the height of the 'pods' to see if the tunnel seat rails are parallel in plan and elevation. The rears are usually the most troublesome when the 'draw' of the rear floor pan is not deep enough and throws off the balance.

Here's the next use for the digital inclinometer, the lower tracks and a bare seat bottom with upper rails.
-Bruce/quote]

Huh??? I have a flat square piece of 3/4" plywood to check for parallel height of the seat tracks, and a tape measure to measure width...
Jack (analog man from the stone age)

[JTR70]

I was thinking the same thing. Justin: do you have Alex's email and if so can you send him a link to this page?


PM sent John...