'63 356B T-6 Rebuild

[bbspdstr]

"Huh??? I have a flat square piece of 3/4" plywood to check for parallel height of the seat tracks, and a tape measure to measure width...
Jack (analog man from the stone age)"

Then, if that wood from a Ply tree, when slid back-n-4th, shows a deviation, you hit something with a BFR (big f'n rock)? "Huh" back atcha.

Oh, a bubble on a stick and a tape may get ya close, BUT...even the worst of the rusty 356s with original seat mountings adjust better than new repro parts beautifully welded together if those parts aren't really, really carefully 'dialed in.'

The best 'proofing' is done with an actual original seat bottom, bare if it's a spare, with true rails still on it, earlier or later styles, it's all the same...a silly milli-meter out of spec in height or width over a run of 450-500mm can make a binding mid-way or at least a tilted seat-back...add a bowed or otherwise damaged rail and more grief comes along, usually found AFTER the car is painted and the carpet is in, the floor is painted and insulated, etc.

So, nuthin' against ya Jack...I'm just warning those who may not know how to avoid what POSSIBLY lies ahead. We who ply our trade woodn't want that.....right?

Rock...on, from the School of Hard Knocks and still learning,
Bruce

[bbspdstr]

Oh, also Jack, if you are like me, you have assigned a random P-number to that plywood...otherwise, as shown in the P-manuals, it is as they ignominiously call it: "Of local manufacture."
Either way, that square of flat 3/4" plywood can then be on your shop insurance inventory as a 'special tool.'
-Bruce

[John Pierce]

Good information Jack and Bruce. Thank you for posting the tricks of the trade.

I was in the garage this afternoon to begin the seat rail mount mock up, but had to go straight to the Porsche 356 manuals for a not so obvious question. The front and rear of the outer seat riser have different shapes. From what I can gather from the small Porsche illustration, the front of the seat rail is set back on the riser. Please let me know if this is incorrect.



Front of riser to the right? (Passenger side).



Front of riser?

Also, I started taking apart the seats so they would be less bulky when fitting the rails. I was able to remove the seat back very readily, however, I couldn't figure out how to remove the chromed rear hinged lock assembly. There is a rod that goes through the bottom of the seat with a chromed screw on either side. I removed the screw and washers, but couldn't get the rod to budge. Is there a special technique to this or do I need a BFH?

Thanks.

John

[Jack Staggs]

[bbspdstr]

Too funny! Thanks, Jack. Next, a tutorial on the differences between a metric and standard adjustable wrench....but back on topic (notice that subtle post by the originator of this thread, asking a pertinent question about something of interest to HIM???)

So here is the answer to John:

The end with the inner vertical slots is forward, so the seat travel can be controlled by the underside lever on the seat bottom. The plastic knob has yet to be screwed on in this picture of a C.

The spline-ended rod that coordinates the seat recliners can indeed be stuck and need gentle coaxing. On your bench, on a piece of cardboard or a towel (or anything soft) take the side rake adjustment lever and allow the seat chrome sides to snap forward by raising that lever. The internal springs will take it to it's stop. It's easier to wiggle the two sides apart with less loading by the spring(s). Occasionally, a rubber hammer is needed if those splines have been together for 50+ years.

-Bruce

[ALEX.RDI]

Hello Guys,

Sorry, I dont get on here much...pumping out the new parts!

We have addressed the seat mount problem. We have gone through our old stock and removed the mounts that have been assembled incorrectly. Any seat mounts that are ordered now will have the nut positioned in the correct way. Sorry to the guys that had to put the extra work in to get them correct.

Thanks for the feedback on our parts, we are always learning here, and are always looking to improve our product and make things correct.

Cheers, Alex

[merbesfield]

I know it has been said before, but thank you Bruce for always being so helpful and offering advice to all on this forum. We are lucky to have you and your depth of knowledge.

[bbspdstr]

Thank you, but it is important to realize that we all help each other. I really learn more here than the trivia I can impart.

We all must thank Justin.

Justin's Coupe2Spdstr project is helping me with a Speedster former crashed racecar project that is much like building one from scratch ....and on and on. I get inspired to work on my own A Coupe and inspired by everyone who is so dedicated to their 356 and 356s in general.

Above all, it's FUN! Not enough of that going around nowadays....

-Bruce

[JTR70]

Thanks very much once again Bruce and I really appreciate it but I'm the one that's grateful to all of you guys for participating here and making it such a fun and educational place to visit. What I know about B&C cars could fit on the head of a pin so John would be in real trouble if he only had me to ask! So my thanks and gratitude to the Pros(Bruce & Jack) and the die hard hobbyist for being here!
Justin

[John Pierce]

Rainy but productive Holiday weekend.



These are my dirty and rusty seats. The covers may be original to the car.



They still have the original burlap. Just a bit rusty from sitting outside.



With a little coaxing the hinges were removed. They'll need to be replated.



Original glued horsehair cushion in really good shape. Should I reuse them?



Looks like original padding.



The springs and its frame are in great shape.



The seat risers are also in great shape with a little surface rust.



Nothing that media blasting won't take care of.



The seat pans are also in great shape.



Handle removed for replating.



Media blasted.



Lots of work where I can get to the point of fitting the seat rails, risers and pods into the car. Bruce: no keys in the chest!

Thanks for following.

[JTR70]

No Bubba welds & Patches on the seat pans ? Shocked not to see any. Guess you've earned yourself a break from them. Who is doing your chrome John? Choose a shop very wisely; don't send those parts out to just any chrome plater.

BTW: I see the key in at least four of your shots.

[John Pierce]

Hah!! You noticed that Justin. I needed at least one shot without them in....so the last shot! I don't know why I have them as they're never used.

You've used Victor Miles for chroming with excellent results. I'll research things, but that sounds like a great place to start.

[bbspdstr]

The 'key' to good plating is to get as many reliable tales of reliable results as you can. Solicit recommendations BEFORE you choose is sage advice as seen prior to this post.

Victor Miles does great work and apparently has a good working relationship with his plater. I usually make decisions about things that leave my control and get those balls rolling early-on in a restoration.

The biggest 'problem' you have is how the big part's perimeter rivets will fair (fare?) when left in place. They can come out "good enough" or really poorly even when done by the same plater. Different persons 'on the wheel' that does the 'grinding' or buffing, not the plating itself.

It's fairly obvious that the parts were plated and plated rivets were used to assemble the mix of that one part. That's where a Victor Miles would "do it right" but be very expensive due to the added labor.

I have been very lucky to get generally great results leaving the rivets in on that style recliner by using Craig Beirman at Speed and Sport Chrome in Houston, Texas. I had a good plater in Philadelphia who retired, the business continued....but changed. If you get my drift. Another restorer (also now retired) told me of his success with S&S, so I have used them for about 15 years now.

Now, that what is seen is chromed, what you don't see is just nickel (nickle?) (Atomic number 2 Imperfections (small ones) are taken out by copper applications, buffed and filled as many times as needed, then plated with nickel for it's protection and then plated again with chromium for brilliance and 'color.'

Keys for an out-sourced procedure I track are good results (with minor variances allowed, part-by-part from time-to-time) and cost-effectiveness. Less in cost? Why? Plating truly is one of those difficult trades in which you generally "get what you pay for" and Craig has been fairly priced for me for the acceptable quality I expect...not 'cheap' and not crazy expensive. Cost increases are usually attributed to labor and EPA demands and Craig has gone up considerably in my 15 years with him, but from what I can gather from those who do what I do, still very competitive.

For the seat pan riveted rails, I often remove them for cad or bright zinc plating, but I also can leave them alone to be masked and painted a nice silver. Even a little off from a perfect parallel can be a huge headache, and while metric rivets are available, you need a buck and a press to place the rails exactly where they were.

.........and people wonder why it takes so long and costs so much....

-Bruce

[John Pierce]

Progress has been a little slow with the improving weather. Also, fitting the seat rail pods takes a bit of time in order to do it correctly.



Now that all the rust has been cleaned up I could get to the task of fitting the seat rail pods. The seat rails on the pods and tunnel need to be parallel, level and at the same height so the seats don't bind. The right rear pod was a bit high so I had to rework it. Restoration Design has fixed the front pods so the captive nuts now slide side to side instead of front to back, providing needed adjustment.



The seat bottom acts as a jig when welding the pods in place.



All buttoned up. The seat rides freely on the rails.



Front pod.



Rear pod.



Just needs a little primer.

Thanks for following.

[ukinusa]

Wow looking really good.. So nice I bet to past all that rust.. Looks amazing.