tools & products for restorations

[JTR70]

Having guessed at punch marks on occasion I can honestly say that is a really cool punch setup! Thanks for sharing that Ashley!

[Don C]

As my eyesight changes I found welding with my bifocals troublesome, sometimes I can't get my neck bent well enough to see my weld seam. For those who don't know, welding supply shops have magnified lenses for welding helmets available in different diopters. I've only seen the 2"x4.25" size available. They are a wonderful addition to all of us with eyesight problems.

[AMP]

As my eyesight changes I found welding with my bifocals troublesome, sometimes I can't get my neck bent well enough to see my weld seam. For those who don't know, welding supply shops have magnified lenses for welding helmets available in different diopters. I've only seen the 2"x4.25" size available. They are a wonderful addition to all of us with eyesight problems.

Telling your age ( I've had them for many years myself)

I have looked for round ones for gas welding goggles but have never found them. Finally got the gas goggles that take the style lens in your picture.

[Don C]

Yup, already have them! I just bought some 3M bifocal safety glasses at Lowes, must be the whole US is losing their eyesight?

[Trevor]

I have looked for round ones for gas welding goggles but have never found them. Finally got the gas goggles that take the style lens in your picture.

How do you like the goggles vs helmet? I presume you're TIG welding.

[AMP]

I have looked for round ones for gas welding goggles but have never found them. Finally got the gas goggles that take the style lens in your picture.

How do you like the goggles vs helmet? I presume you're TIG welding.

Trevor, goggles when welding with an Oxygen/Acetylene torch. I had to get goggles with the rectangular lens in order to fit the magnifier lens Don mentioned. Before those I used goggles that have round lens and I could not find magnifiers for them - but still keeping an eye open for finding some.

Light bulb moment - maybe a solution would be to take the rectangular magnifier and cut into two pieces and sand, grind or turn the halves into rounds!

[bbspdstr]

I need glasses now for welding and about anything else....needed magnifiers since I was ~40 to work under the dash of any 356.

For gas welding, I use my regular bi-focals with a full face shield and a lighter tint than needed for MIG or especially TIG. For those I use a large view port auto-darkening helmet with my regular glasses. The tint can be adjusted to shade 10 or 11 and I illuminate the area I'm welding to see my start/stop points so the typical mask tipping doesn't mess with the careful placement of the glasses that gives the best use of the close-up section of those lenses. AKA, growing older is a pain in the butt AND the eyes.

-Bruce

[Phil Planck]

Since I am not using a rotisserie I found some large reading glasses that have the same magnification everywhere. I wear those under my helmet when I mig weld. Really helps when you have to look somewhere besides down.

[AMP]

No explanation needed except to say I believe it also is Left Handed!

[Phil Planck]

Wow, a metric version. Great find!

[356JAGER]

Metric, Whitworth, Whatever socket set. R & L handed too !!

[Phil Planck]

My trust Montgomery Wards floor jack finally crapped out. I had been using it for engine remove/install. Not the best way for a person working alone. Saw this cycle lift at Harbor Freight, and knowing I was going to be doing a few engine swaps figured it was a safer, smarter way to go. The padded rails also have a removable riser which works nice on our engines. Had a chance to try it out while removing Foam Car's engine from the 55 coupe. It worked very well, although I had to remove the risers once the engine was lowered in order to clear the body. Would highly recommend it if you are working alone.

[bbspdstr]

It worked very well, although I had to remove the risers once the engine was lowered in order to clear the body. Would highly recommend it if you are working alone.

Thanks, Phil..great tool. Gotta get me one. The scary part is that a H-F store is a mere 20 minutes away so I probably actually will when I return from my trip to see Bill Jones in Texas, starting tomorrow. As a personal aside, I will get to check our work on one of his Speedsters from when I was 22 and living off-base in San Antonio, helping him with his collection, now mostly gone. He will be 92 and pick up Martha and me at the airport....still sharp as a tack.

One tip....when removing an engine while using jack stands, I raise the rear first then level the front with another jack (with a piece of plywood, usually under the rear vertical of the battery box but no stands unless desired for added protection). As you show, the engine slides out horizontally much better with no chance of bending the lower studs or affecting the input shaft...but when it's clear of those, lower the jack under the engine and the front end of the car, raising the rear of the car (like a see-saw) for the clearance that allows full withdrawal of the engine out from under. Usually.

-Bruce

[Phil Planck]

Thanks Bruce. Great suggestion to lower the front after the engine has been slid rearward. Will do that when I put the 1500 back in. Ready to do that but am awaiting a repaired front insulation piece.

Great that you are finally making that trip.

Phil

[JOP]

Old style of Porsche/VW jack
Which I missed by seconds on craigslist
But still looking for one more to show up.
So Im still just using a big jack to get engine/transmissions out