tools & products for restorations

[JTR70]

Interesting dent removal system Jack. What is the bonding compound and how do you remove it once you're done? How were the final results?
Thanks for sharing!
Justin

[jstenner]

For pulling applications it uses regular PDR hot-melt glue sticks. There are different strengths, but in all cases the glue will release from the surface of the paint when sprayed with rubbing alcohol...it peels right off. The nylon/delrin tabs come in various shapes and sizes from circular dents to creases. I'm happy with the results. I'll try to take some before/after pics. The image above probably isn't the best example because I still had to do some hammer/dolly work behind the panel and will use some nitrostan filler/paint work on the surface. I was able to limit the area that will need touch-up though, and could get to a pretty nasty crease that was inaccessible as you got closer to the drip rail at the bottom.

[JTR70]

That's a pretty slick system for saving the original finish, Thanks for sharing it!

[roy mawbey]

Liked that photo from Bruce of the speedster tipped up 0n its side. In the mid 70's I had a pit in my garage, I tipped the car up as far as I dared and this is how brave I was. Not brave enough really



Roy

[bbspdstr]

Thanks, Roy.
There is an old phrase, not so politically correct anymore, that goes; "there's more than one way to skin a cat"... but I knew an old Irishman who used an alternate: "There's more than one way to choke a dog." The point is, we evolve through time with ways to accomplish a task, whatever that task may be.

"Pits" are now passe` but I worked briefly in a shop that had one for aligning steering....but it was used for so much more than that! A friend's father's post-war gas station (excuse me, petrol station) still has pits that are used every day for service work.

I can't help but notice the RHD on your 356, so I looked and looked (unsuccessfully) for an old picture that was used for a poster advertising a Hillclimb in the '60s. It was of me in a friends Sunbeam Alpine, the only car I've raced with RHD. Being left-handed and dyslectic, I fell right(?) into that. That was easier than driving on the islands of the Caribbean (at least the US Virgin Islands) where the cars are LHD but driven on the left side of the roads.

Regards,
-Bruce

[badsix]

flexzilla air hose 3/8x 50', my boy got me one of these it's great. I do a lot of paint and body work the hose is light weight and real flexible. it can be had new on E-Bay for about 35.00 to 40.00.
Jay D.

[JOP]

I got to try these new cuting discs from Germany and I must say I am very happy with their performance.
They come in 0,8 mm and 1,0 mm that are with some new compund that makes them stronger and lasting loonger.
The 0,8 disc is perfect for fine cuts unless I use my Dremel
/ Per

[Phil Planck]

Thanks Per

Where did you purchase them?

Phil

[JOP]

Just google Klingspor a980tz and you should be able to find some places that sells them over the pond

I got mine down in Hamburg, Germany

One of the 1,0 mm discs kind of sharpens itself during the cut
I know we talked earlier about discs and qualities..... And not to go for the really cheap ones IF you want to keep your fingers & life intact......

[AMP]

Klingspor in Hickory NC (why Hickory NC - because of the furniture industry and they do a lot of business in racing with abrasives)

buy.klingspor.com will take you there.

good abrasives

link: https://buy.klingspor.com/

[Trevor]

I use Dremel cut off wheel #409 (0.64mm thick). Yes I break a lot of them and yes it takes longer but I love the accuracy of the cuts.

[JTR70]

Block sanding specific aerosol guide coat.
My Neighbor Rick who directly takes part in the automotive paint industry gets familiar with all the latest products and tools of the trade.

I'm getting ready for my final block sanding and he was nice enough to give me this rattle can paint specifically for guide coat.

What makes it specific is the disperser tip that really fogs in a nice wide light pass with no heavy build up. Regular tip for painting as you can see is also included mounted in the top.

My bumper dust coated here and ready to block. Of course you can get by with a regular rattle can of paint but I thought I'd tell you about this new specific product I just became aware of today.
Thanks! Justin

[Trevor]

Thanks Justin. Anyone here ever try this:
http://3mcollision.com/3m-dry-guide-coat-applicator-kit-05861.html

[badsix]

yes, I use it ALL the time. it works great dry or wet try it you'll like it. its much better than holding a spray can back and fogging a guide coat on. then having to let it dry before you can sand. then it still want to plug your paper most of the time.
Jay D.

[AMP]

Here are two I have had a long time and they are very handy to have.
One is an optical center punch with a scope and bulls eye. You can find the hole location on a scribed line,etc. then while holding the base in place swap the plastic scope and center punch hole locations in the base and finally tap the center punch location for the new hole. You can place hole locations with very high precision with this tool and a Whitney punch, precision hole saw or drill press for thicker material. The punch on this one is still very sharp because I just use it for a small punch mark with a copper hammer. Then, if needed, follow with a conventional center punch for a deeper mark.
The other one is a set of 3 expanding transfer punches. The top threads and expands the bottom to fill the hole being transferred. The end of the tool has very sharp corners so the tool works in the thinnest material. The set of three covers hole diameters from just under .25" to just over .5" with infinite range in between.

To quote Eddie "It's a high quality item, Clark."

Google likely knows the source. Or use the phone app where you take a picture and it tells you where to go get one. I can't remember where I got the expanding transfer punch set but the optical center punch has an address on the top of the case but may not be good now.

Great thread!!!