SC Coupe Restoration

[213532]

Prior to launching the restoration of my car, I had two Durant mirrors. The passenger side was mounted symetrically with the driver's side but I added a 3 inch bubble mirror that worked great.

Mike

[Jack Staggs]

quote="tperazzo" post=34553]My welded holes seem a little too far toward the rear.

What do you think about this mirror pictured below? The mirror location seems to agree with the brown car that Jack sent the link to.




Thanks,
Tom[/quote

That looks pretty good. I took measurements off of a couple cars that I believe had factory fit Durant. Both had good visibility to the rear/flank, and excellent "near peripheral" vision (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peripheral_vision), regardless of seat location fore and aft.
From the bottom of the door, to the center line of the mirror base when mounted, appox 20 3/4 to 21".
From the rear of the door to the trailing edge of the mirror (not the gasket) when mounted, appox 32".
I will try to look further for factory diagram, but no joy thus far...

[tperazzo]

Thanks Jack,
My vertical dimension from the door bottom agrees with yours. Now it's just a matter of getting the 32ish dimension close. I'm feeling much better about punching those holes in, but I will still fit everything to make sure I can see before I do. I spent a good amount of time looking at Porsche tech service bulletins and came up empty on mirror locations. I looked at several cars at the Dana Point Concourse and they were all over the map. So I can't screw it up too bad

Last night I tinkered with the passenger window frame. It needed a bit of tweaking similar to the passenger side. I got the gap even all the way around although it's hard to see in the pictures due to shadows in my dark garage.









There are few things that I'm not 100% sure about though.

One is the angle of the frame relative to the B pillar. The drivers side lines up more parallel. I know I can slot the door bottom more and bring the top out, but that will also reduce the gap at the top some.





Second is the threshold strip seems too long at the front.






I guess given all the work that's been done to the doors and pillars I suppose I will need to grind the strip a bit, but I hate to do that.

Thanks for watching these minute details!

[Jack Staggs]

Tom, those window frames seem to be all over the place, even on OG cars. I shoot for even gap at the vertical B pillar when veiwed from the side, even if they are wider from one door to the other. Yours looks good there. As far as the "tilt", the frames must be adjusted to allow good contact with the door seal to reduce wind noise. Don't worry too much about some differences there.
RE: the part you call the threshold strip. Yours seems to be a bit out of position. I could be moved a little rearward to give a tigher fit to the chrome wind deflector at the rear of the window frame. The gap looks too big there. That will give the needed relief at the front as well. You will need to build up the trailing edge of the door a bit, as the deflector and strip should not extend over the door surface. Irregular gaps at the very top of the door are common, but those chrome bits should not be flapping in the breeze over the edge, as your deflector is now. So don't sell your welder yet!
Sorry I missed you at DP Sunday. I was there from 10:30 till Chinese dentist time.

[JTR70]

Looking good Tom!

Jack's right the top strip should hug the deflector profile. There is most certainly a left and right side orientation to these strips and a distinctive profile shape at each end. The back is sharp and elongated to mate up to the deflector and the front tip is much blunter in shape. You may have yours switched or if you've acquired these you may find out that you two rights or lefts instead of a matched pair. I learned this one the hard way a while back.

Like a moron I sold all the original frames to this car thinking they are all the same. This side fit natural

But this strip ended up being a touch too long as Jack described.

Excess was removed to fit this car properly.

Live and learn but so glad I found out all before chrome plating.
Sorry I missed catching up with you guys at Dana this year...
Justin

[Jack Staggs]

Door top strips on doors with vent window can not be can not be switched left to right, as the mounting flange is cut away at the front to accommodate the mechanism.

[JTR70]

Oh, that's right, I forgot all about that damn vent wing. I better stick to T1 stuff.

[Phil Planck]

Tom
I have the frame and w/s installed on Foam Car's drivers door(which has no mirror holes so your research will be useful to me). Here are 2 pics showing the angle. The second one shows better how the frame butts to the w/s.





Phil

[tperazzo]

Thanks all for the window trim advice.
I'm still fine tuning small details here and there as time allows. Here's a few pictures of additional Karmann floor plugs in the battery box area. Thanks to John and Bruce for researching these further. My original floor pan was unrecognizable and if I had known earlier it would have been easier to install these plugs before the battery floor was welded in.
















The pre paint list is getting shorter albeit slowly.

Tom

[John Pierce]

Tom,

I think you've hit all the Karmann details. It looks great.

As you said: they definitely would've been easier to install before the pan installation. It's tough working in confined quarters.


John

[Phil Planck]

I did not buy a Reutter on purpose, but glad I don't have to go back and add all those plugs. Looks great Tom. Keep at it.
Phil

[tperazzo]

Can someone confirm that the left hole on my dash board is not factory?



Thanks,
Tom

[John Pierce]

I don't have it on my car and I have not seen it on other dashes.









HTH.

JP

[bbspdstr]

Consensus says:

[Phil Planck]

Tom
Foam Car has a hole there that is definitely not factory. Someone punched a hole there for an electric fuel pump switch, which I just recently removed. Will have to fill it in.

Phil