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  • #91
    Simonsen, Resto Design,Trevor's, Hogue, Stoddard (ie: NLA, SM, etc) NOS, all seem a bit different, particularly at the upper grille opening opposite the bullet lamp. Most seem more rounded, less angular at the trapezoid end. Look at some, you'll see the difference (I hope!)
    J
    Jack (analog man from the stone age)

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    • #92
      Well, I got the nose panel this week and Jack was right. I fully expected that some mods would be needed as in every repro panel so far, but this one isn't too bad yet.

      Templates made to compare grill holes,


      Flipped and placed on new panel from Sierra Madre


      Not too bad....one radius is a little too sharp and it's not evident in my pics but the angle that the flanges protrude into the wheel well is a bit different too.

      The fog light opening needs even more work.

      New panel


      Top left radius is off. Should follow wire arc below.



      The bottom contour has a strange lump in it.



      All in all, I think it's better than nothing to work with. I'll fix these minor areas before attaching the nose . Of course I had to lay it in place for another self motivational picture.



      Thanks for checking out my latest purchase. Worth $450 I guess.

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      • #93
        Hey Tom,

        Thanks for the update. I didn't think the nose on this side of your car was rough enough to warrant a full replacement? Jack sure called it but it really is par for the course on any of this replacement metal. Looks like you will be tweaking, cutting and splicing those openings much like the rocker panels to create the correct contour. Actually I am quite impressed that anyone offers those noses be it A,B,or C. What a complex compound shape they are; beautiful of course but so many curves all going on at once. Maybe its just the photo but the center nose section looks a bit long an hair-lipped? Is it or is it an illusion due to the bottom not being pinned up? I have no doubt this will be a fantastic repair once complete. looking forward to seeing it!
        Justin
        Justin Rio

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        • #94
          Thanks Justin,
          Yes, I probably could have saved this half of the nose, but my patience is waning and less overall time will be needed to fix the new panel and replace. The original was overstretched, lumpy and ground thin in some places. Also the headlight bucket patch was lap welded crooked and the grills would need to be re-worked/patched anyway.
          The challenge with the new panel is going to be make it fit and get the wired edge transition to look right. C cars don't have the wired edge across the entire nose, but there is a transition from the fender opening to the nose flange.
          I think I will keep the old nose and display it on my garage wall to remember all this metal work fun.

          Here's another picture of the nose piece overlaid on the existing nose. This was just for fun and I only spent 30 seconds clamping it in place. (one clamp, ha ha)


          I can't really comment on the fit until the old headlight bucket doesn't interfere and its properly clamped in place. I'm sure some stretching and shrinking will be needed to get it to match the existing fender which is hardly damaged at all.

          Also, this part seems to be stamped from one sheet. So someone has a very big press with expensive tooling to make these. We are lucky to have access to these complex shapes as you say. Trevor and Steve form theirs by hand (assisted by power hammers and E wheels).

          I've been procrastinating big time on the hood, but I took it down from the rafters yesterday and will begin repairing that soon. Hopefully I can post some small projects that I finished during all the delay.

          Thanks again for your comments.

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          • #95
            Tom - I will be following this with great interest. Good luck.
            Phil

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            • #96
              Very interesting Tom. I think you are correct a complicated pressing that must have had expensive tooling apart from the press.

              Not an easy job to get it in place and welded. Hope it goes well.

              Roy

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              • #97
                Thank you all for your luck wishes and anticipation....I will need the luck for sure. I'm glad that these pictures are worthwhile or at least entertaining.

                Back on pages 8-9 I reached out to the group for help with my cowl shape. Phil graciously transferred my contour plot to his car and confirmed my suspicion that something was amiss with my car.

                Anyway, this strange bump and surrounding depressed metal has been improved.





                This area needed to be shrunk down almost 3mm. The curvature now appears much more natural and blends better with the hood contour.

                Many thanks to Phil. Phil if you (or anyone else for that matter) need any measurements, please let me know.

                Good Night,
                Tom

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                • #98
                  Tom,
                  Just curious...did you use a shrinking disc on the bulge? Looks great!
                  Thanks!
                  Don

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                  • #99
                    Tom
                    When I get my rocker and front of rear fender installed, I will be working on the nose, so will probably have some questions for you. I bought from SMC a supposedly NOS passenger headlight area, going from the original nose butt weld on the fender to past all of the openings for the 3 lights. Have not compared the openings yet, but will do as you have done with templates. I really only need the bottom front corner, so may use what I bought as a pattern and try to make just that area. But I may remove the nose to smooth out all of the many small dents currently filled with lead. This would be inboard of all of the openings. Hopefully a summer project.

                    Phil

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                    • Tom,

                      The curve looks very appealing to the eye. I may have missed this in your previous posts, but what was the cause of the bulge?
                      jjgpierce@yahoo.com

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                      • Hi guys,
                        I'm not sure how the buldge got there honestly. I think it was Justin who said someone walked on it and that is the best guess. This car has all sorts of strange damage...all it needs is a few bullet holes, haha. Maybe the wiper motor went haywire???? Just kidding.

                        My shrinking disc is too big in my opinion for this bump, so it didn't see any action for this. Since the buldge was big and obvious I used a propane torch to gently heat it. Just blue, not red! Then I hammered it down with a rather flat face hammer as it cooled.

                        The secret weapon is my handheld lead shot bag. This thing is great for shrinking and it adjusts to fit in tight places like this one. Here's a couple of pics.



                        So a few heat cycles and many light hits backed up with the lead shot bag did the job. The areas on the side of the buldge needed some on dolly hammering.

                        Phil, I saw the photo of your cars nose. That would take a lot of work to smooth out all those lumps. Hopefully I will learn something when I replace my section. My hunch is that replacement is the path of least resistance, but we'll see.

                        It might take me a while before I get to the nose because my hood is a piece of junk and is getting a full rebuild. I want to finish the hood, so I can gap the nose correctly.

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                        • Oh! That is cool! I have never seen one before; where did you buy it?? I have to have one of those for sure. Thanks for sharing Tom! Justin

                          BTW: Did you work on your hood tonight?
                          Justin Rio

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                          • Hey Justin,
                            The bag is from none other than, Steve Hogue. Ask him if he still makes them....I bet he does. So cool that it's made with a seat belt strap and leather. $20 if I remember right. He joked with me about what size shot to fill it with. I can't remember, but he said its CRITICAL. All I know is its heavy and the shot beads are small. No. 9? Any hunters that can comment?

                            I did work on my hood. I'll post some pics by the weekend. You are going to laugh your ass off. Entertaining stuff!
                            Tom

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                            • Thanks Tom! I will most certainly ask him. The metal complies so much better against lead shot or even sand. I have a large table mounted shot bag but never thought about a hand held version; What a great idea! Glad to hear your making some headway on that old hood and am looking forward to hearing about your adventure with it. Thanks again! Justin
                              Justin Rio

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                              • Tom
                                Shot size gets smaller the larger the number. #9 is the smallest readily available. I have never seen or heard of #10, but it may exist. #9 usually used for skeet target shooting or close shots on possibly doves or quail. I would think that would be the best size for a shot bag. Looks like yours has had a fair amount of use.

                                Phil

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