The Resurrection of Foam Car - 63 T6B

[Phil Planck]

Bruce
Trevor nailed it. That's the set I have. Been in the boon docke for several days with no internet access, so could not reply.

Phil

[bbspdstr]

Thanks, guys!

I looked at the site via the link and will need to measure my bead roller shafts, as I forget where my tool came from ...... but I know it unfortunately isn't a PEXTO.

Once a tool junkie, always a tool junkie!

Thanks again,
Bruce

[roy mawbey]

Trevor that is a great site Hoosier profiles. I looked carefully through that and seems something for everyone and they will make a special for you if required. Also thought the prices seemed fair to me.

Like Bruce I like tools, as most guys on here do as well. But you need room for the equipment to mount these rollers on that that's not always available. To finish a panel or section correctly this type of equipment is essential I reckon.

Bit too late now for me to buy an old English Wheel and practice but I would really like to do it. !!

By the way Bruce Grey is really in fashion over here for all sorts of things. Its a nice colour and if it was originally that it does make you think. But you already know, you have got to be happy looking at for years and years.

Roy

[Phil Planck]

I'm working on 3 cars at once, plus archery deer hunting, so slow progress on Foam Car. But I finally got the patch fit and tacked in. The foglight hole will need to be cleaned up, and the bumper support hole cut out. But, the hard work is over on this patch.




Phil

[Phil Planck]

Got the bumper bracket opening just about to the template. Will mount bumper to double check before final filing. All welded in. A little more work to finish this up.



Phil

[Phil Planck]

upon mounting the bumper brackets, they were very close to the bottom of the opening, which needed to be lowered a bit, but still way off from being centered.


So, I put the template on the hole and marked to lower the opening to final template shape. Still close but better. If I push the bottom lip of the fender rearward, the bracket centers pretty well:



Hum. Made a template off the NOS piece to check vertical curve. One is way off. Here is NOS:



Here is template on Foam Car:



If I push lower lip back to about 3/4" away from battery box corner the template fits. Also, doing this changes the curve at the braket from pointing upward to about even or slightly downward.
Here is before moving bottom lip rearward:


Here is moving bottom lip rearward:



Can some of you with access to T6Bs check the curvature at the bracket, or the clearance of bottom lip at battery box corner?

I can also scan in my template and email to anyone with bumper off.

Thanks - Phil

[bbspdstr]

Phil, just the photo from the side shows a "too flat" profile of your repaired area...needing more curvature. The Porsche clearance varies from the lower valence edge to the corner of the battery box, but those I have seen go from a from a "fit your finger through" to "just a wee bit" but never touching each other. It's akin to just how long the wire reinforcement goes into that general area....."some."

Your challenge now is to mimic your NOS template bend on that side, but you are clever and I have confidence all will be well.....right after whatever hunting season takes precedent.

-Bruce

[Phil Planck]

Thanks Bruce
Well, the complete nose will have to be re-arced, as both sides are the same, along with the removed center section.
A project for tomorrow, as today is 912 front bumper stripping and straightening day.
Stay tuned.
Phil

[Phil Planck]

My 912 bumper repair has been taking most of my shop time, but got a couple hours in today and got the drivers side nose reshaped to match my NOS nose piece template:





Hope this passes muster Bruce.

[John Pierce]

Looks great, Phil!

[Phil Planck]

Thanks John.
Years ago I made a bottom contour trace off of Neil Goldberg's straight, original T6C. Found it today so I can make a template to get the correct curve at the bottom of the nose from wheel opening around the front. First step was to cut loose the bent up support bracket:





Now on to opening up the wire flange. Note already cut, bent up wire:




Took some work with a cutoff wheel to get to the wire, as the rolled flange was welded closed under the old bracket area. With the lower fender free I next melted out remaining lead covering accident damage near bottom and got quite a few of the dents smoothed out. I am debating replacing the combo horn/fender support bracket including wire conduit, as I have not been able to get the plastic sleeve out of the conduit.
Phil

[Phil Planck]

Before setting the lower profile I want to smooth out all of the dents down in this area. Starting with the horn grill opening the first issue is that the parking light "boss" was washed out:



In order to try to repair this, the horn bracket/fender brace had to come out and I had to remove the flange around the parking light opening so I can get my dolly that almost perfectly matches the radius in there to first flatten out the deformed area. Then I can start reshaping the boss:



Started smoothing out some of the many dents and got the "boss" flattened and started reforming the "rise" for the "boss" for lack of better terms. Too bad this whole nose was not replaced at time of accident/s.

Phil

[bbspdstr]

"I am debating replacing the combo horn/fender support bracket including wire conduit, as I have not been able to get the plastic sleeve out of the conduit."

Phil, the stuck headlight (etc) part of the wiring harness is either/and the rust and likelihood of welding after the fact. You can warm it more or as I have learned to do.....try to pull one wire up and out at a time. If that doesn't work after saturating the tube down with Kroil or another brand of penetrant, I cut 'em off lower in the tube (cut the tube as low as possible below the headlight bucket) so a hidden splice can be added to new wire in the new tube....which I recommend.
That also gives you better access to that corner for the other work you mention. I often screw or clamp a light angle across from bumper bracket mount on the battery box to the lower front fender to hold it where it will finally be.... while the metalwork proceeds.

-Bruce

[Phil Planck]

Bruce
You taught me a while back to pull out one wire at a time, which I have done. Bracket is now out. Great tip on how to support the fender at the front of the wheel opening. Will definitely do after I have the joy of removing all the little dents.
Thanks - Phil

[Phil Planck]

After several hours of hammer/dolly work and a little welding the area below the headlight is finally as smooth as I can get it. Need to make a little hammer form to finish up the parking light transition. Too hard with the dollys I have.



The last area on this side to repair is the bottom of the nose from wheel opening clear around the front. Lots of lead removed here. I have marked the approximate cut off line.



Phil