Tweet
Guys, often the simple pushing of fingers of a bullet end on a wire is not enough to sense a positive insertion and a small, OK, tiny screwdriver can be inserted along the wire and used push directly on the edge of the soldered bullet.
When all parts involved are "like new" and fully connected, it can be a bear to get them apart....and many a rear-of-gauge or relay flimsy socket is damaged in the process.
I buy bare crimp-connectors for a practical reason...you can tin the end of the wire, crimp on the appropriate end and then sweat a little more solder into the barrel. Best of both worlds without a third hand. I then shrink black tubing over all if appropriate (like a female spade) or just the connection's part that's crimped and soldered.
Just reporting personal experience "to the best of my recollection" (and trusting that the Senator's time for questions runs out before I need to answer something really important): 900 series Porsches were the first to have switches with spade connectors. There are always exceptions, but tinned ends were affixed to a terminal pass-through via small brass machine screws on the early cars through the A (and on through most if not all fuse strips), bullet connectors morphed in with the late A into the B/C and I think spade/blade connections began with grounding connections on the gauge brackets and the dome lights as changes slogged along until the 356 model was ended in '65/'66.
My reference has always been with the changes I found when restoring the 14th from the last SC Cabriolet. The DIN specs had changed, so ATF nut and bolt head sized changed, actually mixed..... the plating went from 'silver' cad to 'yellow' cad (and mixed on hardware) and the wire connectors were quite randomly mixed all around a unique harness.
Thus, many I know refer to an A as a 'pre-B' and a T-6 B as a 'pre-C' and a C as a 'pre-something not a 356.'
-Bruce
When all parts involved are "like new" and fully connected, it can be a bear to get them apart....and many a rear-of-gauge or relay flimsy socket is damaged in the process.
I buy bare crimp-connectors for a practical reason...you can tin the end of the wire, crimp on the appropriate end and then sweat a little more solder into the barrel. Best of both worlds without a third hand. I then shrink black tubing over all if appropriate (like a female spade) or just the connection's part that's crimped and soldered.
Just reporting personal experience "to the best of my recollection" (and trusting that the Senator's time for questions runs out before I need to answer something really important): 900 series Porsches were the first to have switches with spade connectors. There are always exceptions, but tinned ends were affixed to a terminal pass-through via small brass machine screws on the early cars through the A (and on through most if not all fuse strips), bullet connectors morphed in with the late A into the B/C and I think spade/blade connections began with grounding connections on the gauge brackets and the dome lights as changes slogged along until the 356 model was ended in '65/'66.
My reference has always been with the changes I found when restoring the 14th from the last SC Cabriolet. The DIN specs had changed, so ATF nut and bolt head sized changed, actually mixed..... the plating went from 'silver' cad to 'yellow' cad (and mixed on hardware) and the wire connectors were quite randomly mixed all around a unique harness.
Thus, many I know refer to an A as a 'pre-B' and a T-6 B as a 'pre-C' and a C as a 'pre-something not a 356.'
-Bruce
Comment