1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[Rad-Ride]

When can I send you my doors so I don't mess them up? This way I know they will be done properly.

[JTR70]

That's a very Crispy door Frank. I have something here that might help you; I'll send you some details here shortly. Justin

11/13/17
Begin Right door repair.

WHile messing with the right door I realized I had forgotten to add the drain holes in on the left door. Drain pictured above the original for correct shape and location.

I was very concerned about stabbing the skin with the drill which is why I should have punched these before the skin but it worked out especially up here where I had to relief cut.

Back on the right side door. Mocked up on the car with frame to confirm a base line fit and finish before I begin cutting.

Like the left side the door fits beautifully being the numbers original.

Forward gap also nice.

Frame fitment also noted in case something doesn't fit or look right after the repairs.

Looks nice to begin with and hope to preserve that.

Old accident damage and rust have thrown this alignment off; so much so that it collides and binds up here. So glad I tested it before hand just in case it continues to give me clearance problems.

Time to begin cutting out the rot.

Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JTR70]

11/13/17 Part 2



Save for the bottom and that forward dent with poor removal attempt this original door skin is in nice shape.

Will have to perform the dreaded lower repair section run but I want the weld joint as low as possible. This cut line doesn't get all the rust holes but I fill the ones on that back edge as it goes.

While the skin is nicer than the left door was the rust on this side is touch more advanced than on the drivers door.

Just an observation. Doesn't make a whole lot of difference as the required repair to the frame will be about equal.


Began prep work by removing some lead. Disturbing only what I have to so I stopped just above the dent.

Skin Sliced first.

It all has to go so I took the bottom with the skin section out in one shot.


Off; Almost a rust free door here.

Rust is slightly higher and more advanced than the left side just as suspected.

A concern with having this joint so low was ample access to get at the forward lower tray to clean and repair the lower hinge mount as was done on the other door.

Will have just enough room to work in there.

Remnant of the inner wall flange was removed next. Again the rot went higher and deeper so I had to cut it just at the step flange relief detail along the bottom. Hope to preserve that step as the new section is eventually welded in.

This door doesn't seem so bad now. For the last couple of days I've been planning my attack on how to best approach this repair. My number one concern is how well that lower skin section turns out and those who have tried it know what a bitch this can be. At the end I need a close contour with no oil canning. As it sits here you can see I have clean shot at both sides of this joint and it could easily be welded, shrunk where needed then Picked and filed. With that in mind I've decided my best shot is to weld and finish out the skin repair first. Before I do that however I'll tee everything else up. All the new lower flanges will be made trimmed and set screwed into final position. New bottom will also be trimmed so when the new skin section is finally done the rest of the door repair sections will fall into their predetermined place. This is the plan so we'll see how it turns out.

Thanks for looking!
Justin

[neilb]

When can I send you my doors so I don't mess them up? This way I know they will be done properly.

not a bad door really lol

[merbesfield]

Justin, thanks for the great visual aids. Where have you been getting your door repair panels from and have you been satisfied with the quality? Next project for me. Thx Mark

[Trevor]

[JTR70]

Mark, that new left door skin and both new door frame bottoms are from Trevor Marshall. I couldn't be happier with them. The embossments reliefs along the bottom are at just the right height so the footings on the window frame reach with no issues. I had to make adjustments along the bend/flanges but all Par for the course. The lower skin repair panel for this side I've ordered through Rusty Tubs and I'll just have to see when it arrives.

My thoughts as well Trevor.

11/14/17
Right door Continued

Again with side being a touch rustier the bottom of the door stop housing is pretty thin most of the way through. A blessing at this point as it clears the way to remove it creating more access space while I mess around up here. I recap it with a piece of 18 gauge once everything else is all welded in for good.

Begin cleaning out the remains inside the stop housing.

Just about there with most of the bottom of the stop housing removed. Ample room to work now.

I also get a much cleaner shot of spooning out that old dent as well.


Door is cut back just about as far as it needs to go.

Still have some cleaning to do at the corners of the inner wall flange but that can wait for bit.

Mocked up with door frame to begin locating the new bottom.

I can now start roughing it in.

Quick test fit on the car to see how much of it has to go.

Trim back just enough to get the door to close again then go from there.

Initial trimming next.
Thanks for looking!
Justin

[Trevor]

The lower skin repair panel for this side I've ordered through Rusty Tubs and I'll just have to see when it arrives.

You can make that piece super easy. I made them for my doors. All you need is to put in a 90 degree bend and then roll the skin on an English Wheel, ever so slightly - you're just stretching it a little. If you don't have a wheel yet, you need one Justin, for as much as you do. I bought what I call my "El Cheapo" wheel used, it's a harbor freight, but it does the job.

[JTR70]

I have to stay aware of my time management on this one Trevor. The part is easy to make for sure, but its also Cheap (56.00 bucks). While it ships that's time on this door better spent fabricating and fitting the small repair pieces that I can't buy.

[merbesfield]

Yea I have one of those English Wheels for China. Ok for what I do. But I agree with Justin, not sure I would bother to "roll my own" door. Would rather open a box. As Justin says, time management. I get maybe one day a week to spend on my car. I sure it would take all of 20 minutes to make one thou. Some day.

[JTR70]

That got me thinking, I might buy one of those cheapy English wheels for Christmas.

11/15/17

PIA Dent removal.

Looks innocent enough but this old dent and previous removal attempt turned into a real challenge. Its deep forward position didn't help either. Even though I have the bottom of the door open the narrow cavity made it nearly impossible to generate any meaningful hammer strike from inside.

resorted to a couple of whiskers to try my slide hammer with. Mixed result at best.

What made it so tough is that it was a "crease dent" so the surface is stretched and scored creating a nice trigger point. What ever went across it also knocked the leading edge back ever so slightly holding more tension. I only realized this after a quick heat attempt and the whole area just sank deeper. Added that relief cut to break its grip and allow the surface of the skin to relax upward; with more torch heat to help me move the surface easier.

Couldn't work with it on either side so I had to string it upright to have any shot at it. Wedged two dollys in there so I could planish from the outside. You can see here I was in the middle of throwing everything I had (which isn't much) at it to get that area to raise back up where it needed to be.

I wasn't out of the woods with it. Once I welded up those holes the area drew back down again and also began to oilcan just ahead of this area. Had to heat shrink and chase it back out again. PIA

Just about the last of the pick and filing here.

By sessions end it was close however not perfect but at a level that will need just a swatch of lead to get that last 10%.

through the middle its still a little flat where that dent was but some lead less than the thickness of that ruler will correct that.

Length wise some subtle rollers remain but again just a swatch will do'er.

One more light scuff with a file just to highlight the topography.

Though subtle and light I was still tempted to keep chasing but I just can't spend anymore time here. Limited Time, limited tools, limited access, limited talent...A deadly combination.

Glad its in the done column though. Areas like this are heart breakers but only so much can be done if you can't hit it squarely from the underside. Onto the next repair.
Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JOP]

Justin,
our Tinman Neil from downunder has a english wheel and it is noting special and he is producing nice parts...... so he goes sometimes to Peter T. to use his high end tools from time to time.




You can always get some wheels from Joe Hoosier and build your on rig worthy of your litle workshop

Or Collect some coupongs and get a HF version and improve it and its wheels
Look at the extra strenght that Neil welded to his "cheapo frame"

[roy mawbey]

Learning a lot from you on 'relief cuts ' just never thought, or actually knew about them until your forum and the reasons why, they can be so useful. It all makes sense once explained.

Slightest amount of lead and it will be perfect. Interesting to see problem areas like this where you can only get to one side of the dent to effect a repair.

Roy

[JTR70]

I'll add it to the wish list Per.

The Relief cuts do make life a lot easier at times Roy.

11/21/17

Begin small repair patches.

All the breaches are localized so saving this original lower section was doable. drilled out the small rust holes and the knockouts from my hole puncher provided the plugs.

Larger rust hole reamed out with plug ready to tack in.

Rear vertical wall repair complete.

Onto the front

Same Plan as with the left side repair. New donor section harvested from the old door skin.

All stitched in.

one more sliver patch to add on the lower skin flange.

Begin making the door bottom lap/flange detail. Because of the lower door skin repair sequence and space needed to work this has be to done in a smaller and seperate strip.

Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JTR70]

11/24/17
New flanges


Forward lap flange with "rivet head" detail complete.

Far as I can go up here until the new lower skin section is stitched in.

Began on the inner closing panel flange starting with the center relief.

Adding in the drain arch as before.

folding up the rest of this flange run next.

Thanks for stopping by!
Justin