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1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

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  • JTR70
    replied
    Upper closing wall repair:
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ID:	114966 Rotted upper flange run of this main closing wall cut loose.
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ID:	114967 Recycling more of this cars original metal for the new repair section.
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ID:	114968 Flanged over and new section tacked into position.
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ID:	114969 All welded in with splash pan reattached closing out the door well once again.
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ID:	114970 Inside view shows the lap joint/flap as found originally.

    Thanks for looking!

    Justin

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  • JTR70
    replied
    Another rust repair detour:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1520.jpg Views:	0 Size:	219.4 KB ID:	114960 Began removing that cancered out inner flange run. Lots of heavy rust scale down in there.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1524.jpg Views:	0 Size:	223.9 KB ID:	114961 Once the scale began coming loose it revealed the rot had also gone through the main wall as well...F*&*K! Rarely is it ever easy.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1522.jpg Views:	0 Size:	168.5 KB ID:	114962 A view from inside the door well. There were no obvious signs of this breach in here before I started messing with it. Glad it was discovered now before the fender skin went back over the top of this area. This area would have bubbled up shortly after final paint I have no doubts.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1523.jpg Views:	0 Size:	170.5 KB ID:	114963 I also have a few more small breaches to patch down deeper just above the speaker housing. Little repairs like these almost seem endless and can try your patience.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1580.jpg Views:	0 Size:	207.7 KB ID:	114964 Began drilling and detaching the splash pan from this rotted portion in preparation for cutting and removal.

    More on this coming up.

    Thanks for looking!

    Justin
    Last edited by JTR70; 03-23-2024, 08:01 AM.

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  • JTR70
    replied
    Splash pan clean up and prep:
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ID:	114954 Before I can even think about mounting or refitting fenders I have address the panels they mount directly onto. Begin cleaning up this right side first by removing the remains of the rusted out skin section to see how much if any of the pans mounting flange is savable.
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ID:	114955 Skin section cut free
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ID:	114956 Heavily rust pitted but will see whats left of it after an acid bath.
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ID:	114957 While the right side soaked I began clean up on the left side panel.
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ID:	114958 Once I started really looking at it I finally noticed that the inner seal mounting flange was rusted through and swollen. I had already replaced the right side so I already had a plan to fabricate this piece.

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  • JTR70
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1529.jpg Views:	0 Size:	229.3 KB ID:	114948 Taken the nose about as far as I can. Onto introducing the fenders to confirm the flow and fitment from them to the nose; and with the edges of the latched hood. Alot going on at once.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1530.jpg Views:	0 Size:	167.6 KB ID:	114949 Out of the gate the right side is a natural transition.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1573.jpg Views:	0 Size:	233.1 KB ID:	114950 The left side by contrast needs a bit adjustment. This side also leans back about 5 degrees too much as my angle finder confirms. These are all the variables I want figured out before I commit to welding the nose on.
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ID:	114951 Before the fender refitment can go forward I have to repair the rearward flange and the splash panel it mounts to.
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ID:	114952 Prefab repair sections will need shaping ,trimming then welding. While I'm at it all that old crash damage will also need to be ironed out. Again a lot going on.
    Last edited by JTR70; 03-22-2024, 06:18 PM.

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  • JTR70
    commented on 's reply
    Hi Roy, Yes that seal changes both the gap and the hoods height in relation to the edges of the fenders. Its thickness is a huge factor on how the hood will ultimately sit on there in the latched position.

  • roy mawbey
    replied
    Justin I had the original factory hood seal on my car for about 14 years or more till I decided to buy a new one . You have said a number of times how a new seal can upset the hood gap. How true that is. It was only after trying the new one in the 70's did I start to realise you have to make adjustments to get the gap perfect as it was with the old one.

    Roy

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  • JTR70
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1525.jpg Views:	0 Size:	200.6 KB ID:	114940 Followed that long weld around the lip up with my torch to thoroughly fuse the added backfill strips and to anneal the harder MIG welds for final hammer work and shaping.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1566.jpg Views:	0 Size:	245.7 KB ID:	114941 Begin introducing the trunk seal. Its thickness adds in the next curve ball for final gap and fitment.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1569.jpg Views:	0 Size:	221.3 KB ID:	114942 There is some load in there but I was at least able to get it to latch the first time out. The gap has widened on this initial fitment but lots of adjustment as it goes still ahead.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1570.jpg Views:	0 Size:	206.2 KB ID:	114943 I can make up any unwanted width with lead. At this point, too wide is much simpler to remedy than too tight.
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ID:	114944 As the backside of this panel can always be seen I added in a Faux clamp strip for the emblem. Speed clips would be used anyway but this strip helps create an original appearance when its on the lift.
    Last edited by JTR70; 03-21-2024, 05:31 AM.

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  • JTR70
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks Roy! Good eye, Looks like I mocked up two Right sides. Just have to flip it over and move the thread plate to the other side to create a left side.

  • roy mawbey
    replied
    Well done Justin always a step nearer!! Good job with the new bumper irons great to see them fit so well in th e slots. Does one of these need to be turned upside down through 180 degrees?

    Roy

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  • JTR70
    replied
    Right side repair patch installed.
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ID:	114882 Fine tuning the shape. Excess cut away and tack-welding together.
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ID:	114883 New section just about stitched in.
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ID:	114884 All stitched in.
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ID:	114885 A little fine finishing and welding yet but the heavy lifting is done on this one.
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ID:	114886 Toyed with installing it in for good now but It will have wait until the fender is all welded in. I need clear access to work the back side of the weld joint once the new nose and fenders are finally stitched together. Repeat the left side bucket repairs here shortly.

    Thanks for looking!

    Justin
    Last edited by JTR70; 03-15-2024, 10:54 PM.

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  • JTR70
    replied
    Rust repairs on Right side bucket:
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ID:	114876 Tried to stay conservative by drilling out only the rust breached areas but as I began trying to weld in the new patches to plug these holes the shoulders kept blowing through. While it hadn't rusted through the inner surfaces where just too pitted and thin. I had no choice but to cut past these compromised areas.
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ID:	114877 Began paper template for a new section.
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ID:	114878 Not a big section but a bit of complicated domed shape.
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ID:	114879 Then onto steel. Relief cut in sections to allow the needed shape to develop.
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ID:	114880 Only a small portion of this donor will be used once its all over.

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  • JTR70
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1514.jpg Views:	10 Size:	192.4 KB ID:	114870 Onto the next deal...
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1405.jpg Views:	0 Size:	197.5 KB ID:	114871 Begin headlight bucket repairs. Some rust at the bases and old residual accident damage to address. Especially along that lateral leading edge where it had been beaten on by the body shop so many years ago.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1407.jpg Views:	0 Size:	198.3 KB ID:	114872 Original trim ring installed to dial in the correct shape around the lip where has some damage had occurred.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1409.jpg Views:	0 Size:	201.4 KB ID:	114873
    There was an attempt to beat out this lateral area while still installed in the car but as you can see it still remained too flat.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1414.jpg Views:	0 Size:	206.4 KB ID:	114874 While hammering progressed on the left , the right bucket was acid bathed to clean up the residual rust along the mounting surface.



    Last edited by JTR70; 03-15-2024, 09:34 PM.

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  • JTR70
    replied
    New bracket mock up.
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ID:	114864 Brand new set. Will need lots of tweaking once the actual bumper fitment starts I'm sure.
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ID:	114865 Brackets drawn tight against the mount and no clearance issues with the skin.
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ID:	114866 Ample room for any adjustments but most importantly the holes look like it should.
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ID:	114867 Could have been cut narrower for sure at the insides...
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ID:	114868 But this was how it was done.

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  • JTR70
    replied
    Opening the bumper bracket holes:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1431.jpg Views:	0 Size:	218.6 KB ID:	114858 The noses location is set , now was the time to go ahead and cut in the bracket openings. The inner diameter of the bracket mount's footprint was traced to the inside of the wall to ensure final opening's location would end up exactly where it needs to be.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1498.jpg Views:	0 Size:	235.4 KB ID:	114859 Once those foot prints where traced the nose was dismounted to mark out the final opening size and then cutting. Final cut lines have been established here and are based on my original examples.
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ID:	114860 Openings cut open and nose remounted for a confirmation. Bumper irons should clear fine.
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ID:	114861 By the way the final lateral cuts where not centered with the original markings. I had them favor to the outside because once the mounting bolts are drawn up tight the assembly moves towards the outer shoulders.
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ID:	114862 Stuffed the bracket mounts with paint sticks and no signs of interference with the skin.
    Last edited by JTR70; 03-13-2024, 11:30 PM.

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  • JTR70
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1453.jpg Views:	0 Size:	215.8 KB ID:	114854 Harvested the original clipping strip for additional hole placement confirmation.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1478.jpg Views:	0 Size:	211.8 KB ID:	114856 Confirmed. Holes in just about the right spot and slightly lower than the center hole.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1477.jpg Views:	0 Size:	232.1 KB ID:	114855 Again, this easily overlooked detail gives a nice victorious banner type attitude to the emblem. Now back to messaging that poor roughed up trough section.

    Thanks for looking!

    Justin
    Last edited by JTR70; 03-12-2024, 07:20 AM.

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