1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

Initial battery box assembly mock up:
Wall set screwed into preliminary position. New floor and front wall sections added for the first time to see what adjustments needed to be made if any to the rear walls current location. Very relieved to learn that I'll be able to slip the floor and front wall in as unit so I'll avoid the trouble of cutting them apart and rewelding. I'll take the small breaks when I can get them.
So far so good. The leading edge of the floor butts up against the wall pretty well. The rear wall flexes and contorts a lot so there is plenty of wiggle room so to speak. I'll have add some width to both sides of the floor as they where trimmed to fit the T1 version wall it came as a unit with.
And again will have to add a filler strip along the right side edge where the pre-assembled box unit was built with a taper. That pre-assembly would have missed the suspension mounting flange by a mile.
The final piece for this initial confirmation mock up was the cap.
This section was lined up with its original spot welds along the sides first then the rear wall's mounting flange was inserted and bottomed out fully against the folded leading edge. It nearly went in on the first try. The top of left side walls flange required some slight repositioning forward to allow it to seat completely into the fold . No big deal at the moment but these are all the adjustments that have to be accounted for before you try adding any tack welds. It will punish you severely if you don't. Set screws have now been added to lock in these two panels position with one another.

[JTR70]

Rear wall repairs in basic completion:
Final trimming complete and tacking in from the flanged sides first. I normally like to begin from the center outward but it was more critical that corners and flanged edge continued the line from the original panel.
Once the sides where set then the rest of the run was tacked together.
All stitched up with most of the weld seam grounded back. Have yet to finish up the corners but that can be done anytime before the walls final installation.
Now that I have a basic wall I wanted to begin locating it into its final centered and level position in between the side walls of the battery box.
This walls initial location was sight marked and measured off of the beam and the footprint of this car's original walls attachment point on the left side. This was only a jumping off point however. Every component comprising this final frame structure is now either new reproduction, crash repaired, rust repaired or both individually so with that reality in mind it is safe to say there will be many, many fine adjustments and changes that will be needed during the pre-assembly process to get all of these panels to fit tight and square in relation to one another when its all over.

[JTR70]

Thanks Roy! I agree with you, I can remember seeing reupholstered dashes that looked like over stuffed pillows from my own beginnings and thinking how terrible it all looked in there. The leading edge of the top had a formed fibrous lip that created that nice radiused turn your describing; then a thin padded overlay.
My father and I recovered this dash way back in the late '80's. We used a thin high density foam for the top overlay and it was a must in my eyes that the overall profile shape run as flat and firm as possible.
The original coconut strand formed leading edge was of course crispy and unusable so thick blocks of foam where glued to the leading edge and once set the foam was sand-shaped to contour of that old lip. The final shape and presentation under the Naugahyde turned out just like I had hoped and this old repair/restoration is actually the only feature remaining from the 80's that I still agree with and feel is nice enough to not require a redo except for the actual covering itself. It needs to be recovered in the correct German style grain.
The dash top for this project is now epoxy and top coated completing the prep on this end. Its now off to A.I. for reupholstering. Back to the battery box.

Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin what an interesting two pages of forum read. There is just so much metal to get right. Your effort here in the dash top work I have never seen so well detailed before, I have often looked at my original dash and wondered how it was put together now I know. I am aware my original factory vinyl dash top is padded in a way where the top vinyl surface is actually flat until it has the radius to meet the insturment face. I have seen some cars with too much padding on top and too soft. The work you are doing just looks so correct, well done !

Roy

[JTR70]

Lateral repair flange sections complete; Recycling a little more of the old metal to make them. These pieces where made a while back then set aside while I went back to the beam pulling duties.
Fast forward and these corners are now tacked in. Lateral flange sections also tacked. Repurposing more scrap metal.
Final trimming and fitment of the main repair section soon.
But I had to add one more profile shape in first. There is pleat with a slight kick in the bottom flange along both sides. Over exaggerated bend while installing this detail here.
Relaxed back out and now just about ready to begin tacking this repair section in.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

T2 rear battery wall repairs continued:
New lower wall section flanged and ready to take on the rest of the needed shape.
The bends for the recess are a much softer and larger roll; not a simple 90 degree bend. Had to scrounge and find suitable die and fortunately I had this heavy stock with just the right corners on it.

Making the perfect hammer form.
Basic lower repair section shaped.
Then it was onto the lateral overlapping corners.

[JTR70]

Dash part 4:
Final shaping and trimming. Right side completed.
A bit more cutting and welding on this side to get it to lay right.

Edge reveal just above the gauge was trimmed back a touch too far and straight as delivered so a sliver fill was added to clean up its shape. Only a whisper of it remained after final shaping but the final presentation will be far nicer once its wrapped in leather and up against the profile shape of the dash face.
Installed for one last time. Fully trimmed, fitted and set screwed into final position.
Hitting it with a quick top coat of sealer and paint next then off to the upholsterer it goes. Back to battery box repairs.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Dash top part 3:
Onto the left corner. As well as drain hole duties the lower corner on this side came with a weird contour shape that will need some correction.
Will need some relief cutting and bit more welding on this side.
Began relief cutting and reshaping that corner but before I I went any further now was the time to dial in the mounting screw holes to lock in its final mounted position. Paper tabs locate the original holes then flip out of the way for another dash top mock up.
Then lay over top showing me exactly where to drill. Recontouring that corner was well in process.
Process repeated on the right side with mounting screws installed here. With this now set fine contour trimming of its edge to more closely follow the dash reveal shape.

[JTR70]

Dash top part2:
With the dash top fully seated I moved to the right side corner first to shape and relief cut an opening for the sun roof drain tubes.
Unfortunately I don't have an original reference as to how these corners were trimmed back so it will be opened slightly larger than the drain hole behind it.
Final opening shape with rolled edges to make life easier on the eventual material that will be wrapped over top.
Another of many repeated test fits as it goes. Slightly oversized to account for future material thickness.
I don't have a section of actual drain tube on hand either so this is all just a guesstimation. Hopely this will work on installation day.

[JTR70]

Dash top detour:

Upholstery for this car is getting ready to wrap up so I need to get this new dash top fitted and trimmed to this car and sent off to Autos International.
This R/D's dash top offering and I have to say, right out of the box , this is the best fitting new part I've ever tried. Its a complex piece for sure and the initial fitment issue was its inability to slide all the way home. As you can see its leading edge was about a half inch shy of the car's leading edge reveal.
My first thought was that the tabs were set just a few mm's too far forward.
I thought I'd have to remove them for repositioning but after lifting them upward...
that turned the trick allowing the cap to move forward that last half inch. Sure is nice when the answer is easy. Doesn't happen too often but I'll take it when I can.
Fortunate to have my original dash top on hand for correct positioning and contour confirmation.

[JTR70]

Back to upper vertical wall repairs.
Cleaning off the remains of the old trunk floor on the lateral flanges and straightening out some old accident damage.
Lateral top flanges cleaned and prepped. Reopening and flaring the center conduit hole next.
The hole was flared towards the tube end as originally done.
A gas weld around the tubes end on this side will join these two when the time comes.
Repairs and prep between these two panels mating surfaces all but complete. Onto repairing the bottom and the sides of this wall so it can finally go in for good.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Forward trunk floor repairs complete:
Entire run stitched together.
Lots of grinding and weld finishing next; especially around that ID number. Heat deformation and a few low spots of old accident damage under these two reinforcement ribs so they were removed for a clear shot with a hammer and dolly.
Weld joint smoothing complete with low spots and deformation leveled. Lateral plug weld holes drilled and as numerous as the original spots to replicate the attachment strength.
With the holes predrilled I could begin heeling the flange over a little more in preparation for the vertical wall flange.
Weld repairs to the floor all but complete. Onto the vertical wall repairs.

[JTR70]

Hi John, Unfortunately I don't own that fancy pulling arm but it wouldn't have helped much for pulling out that old battery wall since most the deformation/damage was lateral. Definitely, I do try and save as much of the old metal as possible where it makes sense but some times it isn't worth the effort and you're just better off with a fresh piece of metal. Just doing the best that I can to copy what the factory did all those years ago with what I have on hand and my current skill level. Thank you very much for those kind words and wishes!

[JTR70]

Thanks Roy! I have a corner of junk/scrap metal that I'd like to get rid of but can't bring myself to just throw it out and its instances like this one that really reinforces why I don't. It was nice win/win though as it saved some fabrication time, repurposed an old part and reduced my scrap pile just a touch. Agree, rebuilding these cars in the way that they were originally constructed especially down in the deep recesses can be extremely trying and corner cutting can become a very attractive option when you get really deep into things. I've been there many a time...

[jjeffries]

Hello Justin (and Roy), What lovely work as always. Reading it/catching up, I was anticipating that you’d straighten that damaged driver side vertical panel with a wide clamp and a Celette pulling arm, plus some heat and hammer/dolly work. Obviously not necessary. You do conservation as much as restoration, utterly scrupulous and almost monk-like in your integrity … a lesson for us all. I certainly always come away from reading your posts with a healthy dose of Zen.

kind wishes, John