1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

Unforeseen issue with Prefabbed battery box unit .
As nice as this prebuilt unit comes this was never going to fit correctly down in between the front beam mount flanges as delivered.
With the side wall mounted tight and straight off of the beam flange the new floor's edge starts out tight in the front corner then continues to taper away and comes up better than a half inch short by the time it gets to the back wall. Plug welds are in the foot print of the initial spot welds. The new back wall is mounted in this shot to confirm what I was seeing and it fits snuggly between the two walls now...
but I had to relax it apart with a couple of light tugs then it quickly reached both sides. You can see the floor is now short in relation to the vertical wall recess for the battery by about a half inch. This is a T1 version wall but the width between the front beam flanges is the same on all 356A cars so this was not the issue. It was just preassembled too tightly back here.
Short on the left side as well but not as much.
There would be no way to overcome this discrepancy without cutting the back wall and sides free and resetting them to the correct width to allow this factory overlapped attachment at the beam. Then of course adding onto the floors edge where its short; all of which I'll be doing anyway. The box was just assembled about a half inch+ too narrow at the back. Another example of reproduction part fitment issues and how you can't assume its going to plug right in no matter how nice it looks right out of the box.

[JTR70]

Initial battery box mock-up:
Slid in and just about fit on the first try.
It stopped just about a half inch shy of the bottom flange. A little trimming up on the top flange of the wall will take care of this.
I'm going to try and keep these two panels together and avoid breaking them apart if possible.
test with the rear wall and so far so good.
Again, a lot of prep work yet to come but its getting there. During this mock up I discovered a huge fitment issue that would have confronted me if I had attempted to install this box as a unit. Will share that next. Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Inner trunk panel prep.
Repairing and installing these two panels would be next
But before they go in I do have the option of remounting my rotisserie jig to finish out the welding on the lower gussets and that diagonal brace.
While I make up my mind I went onto removing the left side wall to free up the new floor and forward closing panel.
New reinforcement plates for the overrider tube mounts are also 20 gauge so I'll also be recycling the heavier gauge originals.
Lots of prep and repair work before these panels can go in but this is what's next unless I decide to finish up the frame reinforcements first. Quick battery box mock up next.

[JTR70]

Hi Roy, I'm really glad that you find this journey of some interest! I definitely get stumped from time to time but eventually a way through reveals itself. Yes, you are very aware as to what you are actually looking through here; there is a lot of time and effort in between each one of these progress shots and it doesn't just lay down and fall into place for certain. I remember your comment about those mole clamps. I'd be at a loss without the ones I have and I definitely need to expand my collection. Thanks again for all of your great comments and word of encouragement during this process. It is always appreciated! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin nothing much frightens you regarding all this metalwiork repair does it !! It is so satisfying for me to sit here at my desk and watch you trasform a twisted bit of metal back into shape and correctly re-insert back into place looking as though its never been off the car. For sure , these great photos of yours somehow make it look so easy. I know it isn't and your head though is constantly thinking ahead to make sure this work all ties up with the next part to be fitted !

I remember once maybe 8 years ago telliing you I liked your variety of spring clamps ( we call them 'mole' clamps here ) They must be so useful and you seem to have so many and just perfect to get into place. How on earth could you do all the work without them? The guy who invented them needs a medal I think.

Good luck with the next deal !
Roy

[JTR70]

Right bracket repair and install:
Acid cleaned and now onto rehabbing this poor thing.
Stretched and torn like its mate but a little more severe on this side.

Several rounds of heat, welding and lots of pounding but eventually came back into usable shape.
Inner surface epoxy coated just before final install.
All welded in with reused rivets plug welded on to preserve that original detail. Onto the next deal...

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Bumper bracket mounts repaired and installed:
Both inner surfaces cleaned old rust, coated in epoxy just before final installation.
Plug welding completed. Rivet heads reinserted and plug welded in from behind preserving this original detail.
The repro mounts are 20 gauge so I'm going to harvest and save the right side as well.
Job went a little faster as the bottom welds gave up post accident and "repair" attempt all those years ago.
Acid bath next while I was still in process of welding in the left side at this point.

[JTR70]

Thanks Roy! Definitely after this repair I wouldn't recommend buying the battery box as a prefabbed unit.

[roy mawbey]

Justin, you are right no way could you have repaired and welded that side wall in with the closing wall in. Your repair looks so good !

Roy

[JTR70]

Wall installation complete.
Overlay flap welding and straightening complete.
Thorough weld penetration confirmed out here.
Plugs dressed smooth finishing off the right side wall installation. Onto the next deal.
Getting the wall accessories ready for reinstallation. Original left bumper bracket mount hammered back out flat.
Into the acid bath next to clean up the remaining rust before it goes back on.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Welding new wall in:
Plug welds completed to the inside of the suspension flange.
Dressed smooth and now ready to lay the frame panel flap back over top.
Top section iron out back flat as plug welding progressed. Onto the lower flap.
BTW even if this rear closing wall was going to be used I still would have removed it to install the side walls. As you can see the access is very inhibited in between the beams and this wall to perform all the procedures required to install the side walls correctly.
Clamped and messaging this flap as the welding goes. Again, the results would be mixed with the battery box installed as a unit as it was purchased.

[JTR70]

Thank you Roy! The mission has always been to make these repairs well enough to where it would make no sense to try and improve upon them at anytime in the future. Definitely, the bench is providing invaluable confirmation as its going back together. Thanks once again! Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin its so good to have the body on the Cellette to get the datums correct, so difficult if the body was just suspended in air very difficult then to know its all in line. Correct as well for it to look as original as possible. It is true new panels can stand out if they just don't look right. Easy to spot that if you are really into 356 cars. And as these cars are not cheap anymore that affects value. Good bit of work there Justin!

Roy

[JTR70]

Final prep and ready to weld:
Removed one more time to straighten and clean suspension flange. I little lever bar and slide hammer work but it came back out very well.
Clamped and set for the final time. 7 inches from the bottom edge of the panel to the cellete plank matches the original side.
16 1/2 inches from the beam to the end of the panel matches the left side. All plug welding will be done in here to preserve the original spot weld detail on the outside of the flange. Welding it on now.

Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Panel prep:
Basic position and now onto fine tuning.
One adjustment I wanted to make was to soften this upper bend.
Secured to a piece of angle iron with a softer radius and hammer formed to it.
Softer turn now matches more closely with the original profile.
My main reason for doing this is that the eventual upper closing wall flange will wrap over the top of it and take on its profile shape. If its too tight and crisp (like it was) it just screams "replacement panels" when looking up into the fender well; I've seen it and I don't like it.