1959 356A S/R coupe project chassis # 108625

[JTR70]

template for most inboard panel.
Getting it trimmed to size for better fitment as it goes
Highlighting how that main torsion tube anchor point that I had to cut past will layer over the eventual section made from this paper template.
I have this piece soaking in acid and as its getting cleaner its revealing how thin and compromised it actually is now. This piece was at least 16 gauge to begin with so I may have to fabricate this section from scratch as well.
I wanted to end up with as much as much as full piece as possible so I had to peel back just a little more of this outer section to expose the top of this panel. As you can see it ends just under this section I lifted back.
Finally touched bottom here and will not have to cut back any further. I'm switching gears for the moment and will be installing the interior wall and flange section first. I want a clear shot at the backside of it to be able to work the weld joint after its installed. This is something I remembered I wished I had done on the other side. Its been cut and removed here but I do have to finish cleaning the remains of it down in the corner.

[JTR70]

Fabricating new inner wall/corner section.
Adding the rounded corner profile needed.
Corner welded up and now shrinking in the needed turn at the end of the flange.
One of many test fits as it went.
Just about ready for a final trim.
But before I could do that I had to go back to the unpleasant chore of cleaning out this corner. The kick panel flange runs under the lateral corner flange and as its rusted out too now was the time to remove what needs replacing.

[JTR70]

Remains finally cleaned out.
Okay, now I've touched bottom in this corner. WHEW!
Slowly trimming the new piece to final shape. Remnant flange section installed to establish the correct height needed for the eventual lap joint at the front there.
One final test mock up with what I have to make sure its all going to fit right.
Trimmed and finally tacked in. The corner flange will be left loos for now so I can slide the eventual kick panel flange replacement underneath it.

[JTR70]

Moved from paper to steel.
This standard flange repair section is a little short for this repair so I'll have add a strip on to increase its reach.
Some torch heat and a wire brush was used to clean up the rust and scale as best as I can.
finished seam welding the inner wall and added the needed strip to this next repair section.
Installing this piece next. This photo shows exactly why I wanted get the interior wall section in first.

Thanks for looking!
Justin

[roy mawbey]

Nice bit of work there Justin. So important to get the sequence correct.

Roy

[JTR70]

Thank you Roy, Yes, life is a lot more enjoyable if you can avoid locking yourself out by keeping the sequences straight.

[JTR70]

Most inner flange panel installed.
Working outward from here.
Two vertical walls down with three more layers to go.
Now its onto this heavy gauge flange that is actually part of the torsion tubes end housing/face here.
As you can see after some time in the acid bath its too thin and compromised to reinstall.
Rummaging through my scrap pile for a nice piece of heavier 16 gauge.

[Scott B]

Justin - this brings back so many memories for me - not all pleasant. You will be going through a few cut off discs for a while. Keep your safety glasses and gloves on. I think this section of my car was the first of a few times I got some metal slivers in the eye. A magnet doesn’t always work and I did have to make one trip to the hospital to get it pulled out - by a very attractive and competent nurse so not all that bad a trip. This is not the time to be anywhere near a hospital. Stay safe Scott

[JTR70]

Thanks a lot Scott. You know when I was a younger man (when we think we are all invincible) I'd cut and grind metal without protection all the time. Young and stupid. Now that I'm older I'm very conscious and protective about my sight, hearing and lungs. Anytime the metal flies these days I always take the time to put on a face shield, headphones and an old paint respirator. I was having issues 10 years ago and realized I shouldn't be breathing in the small particulate
filaments from the grinding wheels as they are being consumed. I find the paper masks ineffective as I my lungs would still tickle and I'd get a cough later that night. A paint respirator turns the trick for me...And yes, gloves are a good idea too. Things happen quick and before you realize it you're bleeding.

[JTR70]

New torsion housing lower flange section:
Rounded up a nice little strip of 16 gauge. Basic Lower flange in at this point.
To get the right flange profile shape I had to relief cut it and fold it individually. Planning my next cuts for shaping here. I knew I was going to come a little short on that lower tip but I figured I'd add it back in later.
Cutting and rolling in the needed shape. Slowly getting there.
As expected I came up a little short on that neck section so I'll just add a small piece onto the end of it.

Section added now completing my little bird shape. Some minor shape tweaking will still be needed as its welded in but its close enough to the original section to proceed. 16 gauge is much more involved to work with, especially tiny shapes like this. You can't cut it with hand shears nor can you bend it with any accuracy without torch heat.

[JTR70]

Repair of layer #2 installed.
Thought I was ready but I still had some more fine trimming and tweaking to do before it was ready to tack. Also had to peel a strip of layers 3&4 to give me a clean shot at the weld joint.
All but ready. I turned the lower flange a little too tight and had to relax it before I could tack weld.
All welded in..,finally.
Through all the bending shaping I had issues trying to get this piece to run consistent down the line while also fitting up where I needed it to. Thankfully in the end, it all lined up.
Dressing the welds and then its onto layer #3. Back to a much nicer to work with 18 gauge.
Thanks for looking!

Justin

[JTR70]

Layer #3 install

This is the lower gusset section that bridges across the saddle profile in the flange. Templating off of the remains of the left side and need only to flip the paper over for a right side application.
Flange has a swoopy profile for the saddle area it bridges.
Onto metal. Relief cut the flange for the needed curve in its profile. I'll just back fill that with weld to attach it further to the new torsion housing flange.
New piece ready to go.
Number 3 layer all welded in.

[JTR70]

Tempting to make this gusset a little longer but that's not the way it came.
Dressing the welds smooth next. Then its onto layer #4. BTW: starting to hit those twisted off bolts with some heat before I plug weld some nuts on for removal. This bottom section again is the remains from the right side and is placed on here backwards for the photo. Still thankful that the right side was intact enough for a reference. Working on this final wall section next.

Thanks for looking!
Justin

[Scott B]

Nice work on the jigsaw puzzle!! Having a rotisserie and flipping the car upside down really aids in getting at this tricky mess. Save them all!!!! Made by hand again!

[JTR70]

Thanks Scott. Could not imagine doing this repair on my back, my patience would wear thin and I'd probably end up fish plating one new section in there and calling it good. You've to be able to at least flip it to one side to have a decent shot at it.

[JTR70]

Quick detour before installing vertical wall #4
This lower cap which I've designated #5 for explanation purposes needs to go on ahead of the final vertical wall because its flange lap joints over top of this section.
You can see the remains of this lap joint in the lower right. Before I can install this new cap I'll have to repair the hole in the heater tube and seal the cavity as best as I can.
Large hole and several small pin holes back filled. Gas welding really turns the trick here for rusty thin old metal.
Cavity slathered in epoxy and sealed as best as I can.
New cap section made of heavier gauge sheet welded.

[JTR70]

Original section with the "window" I cut out laid over to top to show it was built.
Outer skin section that lap joints over top that newly installed #5 cap.
Back onto paper templates for the final vertical wall section.
New rough cut 18 gauge section.
My hammer form placement set and now bolted down. Beating in the relief shape next.

Thanks for looking!
Justin

[JTR70]

Hammer forming relief shape into vertical wall section #4
Began forming it cold and went as far as I could before adding in the heat. This being 18 gauge I could only go so far.
After several laps and rounds of heat I finally had the relief shape I was after.
This tube originally sat off to the lower side of the relief shape.

To determine where that is exactly , this new panel is now roughly trimmed along its top (Or the bottom in this shot) and is in the process of rough fitment to the chassis.
Once the new panel is set into its final position. The tube section clamped to the main run will tell me where the final opening needs to be.