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Finished out lower valve covers and onto the uppers:
Many an hour spent hand sanding and shaping in and around those relief shapes and I've chased it as far as I'm going to go.
A few pin holes remain and am adding drops of silver paint to soften their appearance but I'm not too concerned at this point. I just need to be done now.
Moved onto prepping the upper covers for final paint. These had been powder coated from the factory and it was extra tough to remove especially down in those reinforcement shapes. I tried bead blasting them clean but I had to sit on one spot way too long to get back down to the metal. I gave up on that and resorted to torching it off and then a wire brush follow up which worked well enough.
In the process I lost some of my JB weld pit filler but will go over it again later.
Epoxy primered and shot with a coat of Sahara beige. The original paint on these was a beige base with a silver top coat so I'm replicating that as close as possible. Back filling the pits next.
Pocks refilled and sealed over with more epoxy. One more coat of beige to even it all out then the final silver base then clear coat.
Completing upper valve covers:
Fogged one silver base
Final clear coat...Done!
Detailed shot of the lopped off end. Unlike the lowers which I'm leaving raw the paint on the uppers allows me to get that last 10%.
A shot of the original finish on a removed section. Beige base with a silver overlay. Not an exact match but close enough with a similar flavor.
Cam towers and the covers are now ready for installation. A very long, frustrating, expensive and time consuming ordeal but these top end parts are finally finished. Onto the next deal.
You should laser scan those or make some casting forms, before you put the engine together. I am sure that there will be a time in the near future when people will want covers instead of welding them up . You could do a 2D casting and then do the inside machined later. Pick up on the center of the four holes in the castings for reference and build the interior from thoes points.
Hey John, That would be a great idea if there was any demand but there really won't be. 99% of Deans motors run the much earlier cam towers and chain boxes. Not only that but the way I shortened these later 964 towers is not the way its normally done so the final bolt pattern on the lower cover would be different. Justin
Beginnings of exhaust header fabrication:
Just purchased pre mandrel bent Stainless Steel exhaust tube sections to fabricate a header set from. I'll probably end up needing at least two more of these but this pair gives me a starting point for now.
Custom stainless steel flanges to fit these heads will have to be fabricated first. I'm having my machinist cut me out a set based on this pattern next.
My Machinist had a question concerning the pipe fitment into the flange so I stopped by to confirm. He had the basic pieces turned out of some stainless stock. Pictured above. I'm sure he'll have these knocked out by weeks end.
Turned out gorgeous! Bore matches the exhaust port and flange tapers away at the center to allow the air to keep flowing.
Friction fit with the tube to allow set angle adjustments as the header build continues. Have the option of welding these two together from the inside...
Or just weld it on the outside.
Off to pick up the other three this afternoon, pay the bill then begin fabricating the intake flanges.
Picked up the rest of the order this afternoon. Pricey little order here but a lot of set up time to create each one. Oh well, another item in the done column. Now onto the intake side.
Thanks for looking!
Justin
ARP fastener sets for the bottom end.
Stepped up big and purchased the entire ARP line of hardware and fasteners for the 911 engine.
Had to make this heavy lift in stages so my first purchase was their head stud kit,
Like fine silverware. Super high quality . Love the bullnose tips...
Once I had a chance to digest the head stud purchase it was then onto their crankcase perimeter stud set.
After the perimeter set it was their Case through bolt set for 964. Just as gorgeous the rest of their stuff.
And finally their bell housing stud kit.
This is of course set up for a six cylinder so I'll have some hardware left over for spares.
All the hardware needed to hold the bottom end together. Nice to have this one in the done column. Onto the next purchase.
Oil pump:
Took a chance on this used early 1970's 3bar oil pump for a 150 bucks. This is the unit that Dean says to run with his motors.
Pulled it apart for inspection keeping track of all the gears and their specific arrangement.
Everything seems fine with minimal wear if any.
reassembled the unit along with some lube.
Unit turned fine with a very positive feel. I thought I was done here but not just yet. Modifications to work in a Polo engine coming up next.
Scavenger tube modification:
As you can see the tube is intended for a longer engine.
Dean reminded me that the goal is to get it centered down in this sump as close as possible.
A little torch heat makes it removal a snap.
Getting my head around it and playing around with different configurations as it goes. Its flipped over here which gives me the distance but its not centered laterally just yet.
Input shaft modifications:
Another modification Dean warned me about was to the input shafts. Again these are both stock 911 components and are being asked to run in a much shorter engine block.
As you can see the shafts overlap each other by about 4MM's.
I'll have both shafts shortened just enough so they don't touch. Dean's supplied shaft coupler (above) is also just a touch too long as I want to seat between the eventual shaft collars (grooves) so its all now over that the machine shop for this modification first. Another possible issue could be with rod clearance. I'm running the stroker crank so Dean warned I may have an issue at the top of the oil pump body. I'll mock the crank up after I get these first two modifications out of the way.
Thanks for looking!
Justin
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