Im back,,,,,,,,,My Outlaw Build

[merbesfield]

Don't forget to seam seal the battery pan cross support bar. Not sure what brand sealer you are using, but I have found some spread easier than others. Once it starts drying its a bitch.

[JTR70]

Hey Brock, looks like you're just about ready for undercoat! I see in your first photo how you tied into the lower torsion housing with your sub-frame. The rust repair looks just about complete. You're probably in the measuring stage for your motor swap? Looking forward to that! Justin

[Restomod]

Mark ,using 3m fast and firm. Its ok but comes out a little to thin to get a good bead going (for me anyway). So then you have to put your finger in it and work it in (THATS WHAT SHE SAID!!! LOL!! )
It does start setting pretty fast to and gloves are a must.

Justin the connectors are also welded to the rail leading up to the bar to try and tie it all together. Yep ordered the tabs for the trailing arm mounts so they are next and I am thinking about ordering adjustable spring plates.
Motor mounts will be after that.

[Restomod]

Started working on the tunnel, the PO had welded home made sides on it. He overlapped them some but its ok. Two things, does anyone know what the two smaller tubes inside are for? Throttle?
The bigger ones with threads are for the parking brake cables,then there is one other for clutch?




Also how was the front attatched to the angled fire wall brackets?



Thanks!

[Erik H]

Not that familiar with 60 model but my guess would be heater pull cables.

[Restomod]

I think you are right Erik Thanks!!

[JTR70]

Hey Brock,

Yes, Erik is right those are the heater cable runners. The tunnel and the incline bases are only joined up top and are not really connected completely. The tie-in with the floor is where the strength comes in. here is a detailed shot of mine. This part didn't change much in the B series.

[Restomod]

Cool Thanks Justin!

[Restomod]

Started messing with the rear trailing arms yesterday. Did this mockup and quikly saw that the straight arms would hit the frame rails way before the axle centered with the wheel.



So instead of cutting the rail I started to mod the arms. I gained 2.5" of extra clearance with this notch.
Arms went from this



To this





Still a little ugly and have to box the end and later place a lower shock mount but I lost 1.5 lbs doing this.

[JTR70]

Making progress Brock! Just an FYI: whenever you weld long expanses on arms or axle housings like you're doing its almost required that the part be mounted in a holding jig or fixture. The heating and cooling no matter how slow will more often than not tweak the part out of shape. I remember a guy gussetting a ford 9 inch housing in the 90's without a jig. He took his time but it still warped and after it was done the axles shafts were all bound up and would no longer spin freely. So if you get your mount tabs in the right position on the torsion housing and then run into alignment problems with the arms this maybe be your cause.
Again just some advice I've learned from over the years.Keep at it! Justin

[Restomod]

Thanks Justin, it was welded to the steel table.

[Restomod]

Been waiting on parts, the pedals showed but not real fond of the pads on them but they can be changed.





The adjustable spring plates came so I could re-test the trailing arms.



With the arms in this position a 15" wheel would be about 1/2" below the top of the fender opening.




BUT the suspension would ALMOST bottomed out so this would not be ride height but I gotta start somewhere.........

[JTR70]

Hey Brock, was just made aware that your selling this project.
Very sorry to hear that but I understand that life's situations are always changing. Justin

[Restomod]

Its forsale but no $ being thrown around so who knows. I am over building cars, I want something new/er that I dont have to start from scratch with...Challenger R/T 6 spd or Mustang GT 5.0 6spd(new body style) would fit the bill nicely.....

[merbesfield]

Its forsale but no $ being thrown around so who knows. I am over building cars, I want something new/er that I dont have to start from scratch with...Challenger R/T 6 spd or Mustang GT 5.0 6spd(new body style) would fit the bill nicely.....

Yes, working with old cars is quite a challenge. Good luck to you with whatever you end up with.