57 356 A mild resto

[merbesfield]

[Phil Planck]

Mark
The door hinge should be flat. As you can see, a brazed replacement piece has been installed. Easy part to make and do it right. The part laying on top:





Phil

[merbesfield]

Got a few good hours in tonight. Worked on both ends of the door bottoms in preparation for fitting the actual bottom. They were ok, but had pin holes so I cut them back to solid metal and replaced each.

[JTR70]

That is a brazed mess and right the standard repair section offering won't take you past his handy work.

If this was in front of me I would take a trashed door like the one above and make my own repair section. I'd cut this one just under the handle relief and just above its cancer then heel over a new flange at the bottom of it. With his approach it would get you well past the standard 5 inch cutoff line and its already got the gentle crown in it provided it hasn't suffered damage in the past. At this point you have to go higher and the higher you go the better as the door's profile crowns more giving much more control and stability after its welded. Out in the flats (that 5 inch area) is where is gets tricky. Trevor's door skin runs 750.00 so it may not be your answer as I don't know what you're willing to spend. The lower hinge deformation is from the rust swelling in between those two panels. Phil's repair would be the way to go to ensure its all out.

The rear quarters and not really panels but just padding backed covers.

Bottom would be secured to tack strip

And this sewn in cardboard lip inserts into that steel runner you asked about. Auto's international can easily whip you up a pair.

Best of luck on that door. I'll be watching with interest, its a messy one for sure.

Justin

[merbesfield]

[merbesfield]

Got some good shop time in today. Got the PS door bottom installed. Debated whether to do front or underside first, underside won out. Figured there were more things with that piece that I needed access for. With my Finger belt sander I should be about to reach most of the backside of the door skin. That tool is amazing. Love it.

Rough fit.



Followed by Dykum and precise fit.





Then the fun begins

[merbesfield]

[merbesfield]

[roy mawbey]

Nice job Mark

Roy

[badsix]

nice work, will you fit the new skin to the frame when mounted to the body to line the skin to the body.
Jay D.

[merbesfield]

Yes, I am sure the door will go on and off the car a number of times before it is perfect. My gaps were near perfect before I started so I will want to be sure they are maintained.

[Scott B]

Mark you are killing it. Awesome job and skill. Keep the tips and photos coming. After I finish the battery box and vin panel doors are next for me so your step by step visuals are very much appreciated.

Scott

[merbesfield]

[JTR70]

Mark, I found that a 356 crankcase perimeter bolt drops in and out very nicely with very little play. During my mock ups I'll drop that bolt in the bottom and push the top pin in just to where it would stay.(sometimes it would still fall out when I closed the door ) To reverse it I'd slip the bolt out first to allow some play then wiggle the top pin back out. try it, you might like it or you may not but this how I did my series of 100 door trials on the coupster.

Door repair is coming along nicely!
Justin

[merbesfield]

[quote="JTR70" post=41562]