57 356 A mild resto

[Scott B]

For me, without the front clip on I used a long rod of close diameter and slide it down through both hinges at once. But having an extra set of hands to hold the door and help get it off is even more of a help.

[Jack Staggs]

8mm or 5/16"

[merbesfield]

Start slicing






And welding

[merbesfield]

Multiple times on and off car. Glad these doors are light. Got a good fit now. And sanding.





Question for those that know. How far away from the edge of the threshold should I hold this inner frame back? I can tell this is too close and needs some grinding. Is there a rule of thumb? I have never replaced a door skin before. See pic below.



And last pic w door installed. Waiting for next session.

[merbesfield]

Oh yea, the door gaps on this car are so nice.

[JTR70]

Jack beat me back here...Thanks Jack!

Just a nice medium length Karro bolt from either an engine block or transmission.



Didn't have a micrometer but as Jack said a 5/16 shank slips in nicely.

On how much flange to leave at the bottom? I start with about 3mm then trial fit the new skin flange and remove slivers as needed until I get the bottom gap I'm after. Door's looking great!
Justin

[merbesfield]

[merbesfield]

Happy New Year everyone. I just looked at my last post and it has been almost one year since I last posted work on my car and my door project. I guess life just gets in the way of you let it. Well I finally forced myself into the shop today. First day of the year and I had no idea that it had been literally almost a year since my last visit. Hopefully it will not be another year. Well the good news is I got the passenger side door about 90% done. I mounted the new lower patch panel. Seems like I had the door on and off the car 100 times. It is now tack welded in place and mostly crimped over the edges. I left it up a little and hosed the joint with Zero Rust. Once it dries all I have to do is bang it home. I still have to do the finish welding along the seam and that will have to go slow. The door is a mess from the shoddy PO patch that was brass brazed over the door panel. As a result the panel was quite puckered out so I am sure copious amounts of lead or filler will ultimately be required to smooth things out. But we now have solid metal and zero rust.

[John Pierce]

Mark,

Welcome back and Happy New Year! The repair looks nice. A little bit at a time will get you there. It's a long process to do it correctly.

[JTR70]

Glad to see you back at it Mark! Happy New year!

[merbesfield]

[Red911]

Congratulations on your door rebuilding. I am just starting my door rebuilding, so your post and others help me a lot.

My issue, which I will post soon is the passenger front fender and the passenger door were in an accident and therefore, the front of the door gaps are not correct.

Thanks again, and great job.

Tom

[merbesfield]

Tom, good luck with that. I was so lucky this car was never in on accident. Almost perfect panels and gaps other than normal rust. There is lots of good info here. My front fenders is my next and final rust repair.

[merbesfield]

[John Pierce]

Mark,

I found it easier to make the patch panel that you need. Look at my build to see what I did. If you purchase a patch panel it will always have to be modified to fit. It's easier to make a template and make your own which will fit the area you need without waste or frustration. I do not like the RD metal as it is too thick and galvanized which gives off toxic fumes (irregardless of what RD claims) and it sputters when welded.

Cheers,

John

[merbesfield]