57 356 A mild resto

[merbesfield]

Mark, From what I have seen your harness it looks pretty good save for the usual breaches in the cloth from age or being man handled. Unless you're planning on replacing it I'd leave that sleeping dog lay. Removal (& re-install)is very hard on it as it has to make a couple of sharp corners which will completely destroy what's left of the sheathing.


You'll either have to rewrap it old fashioned black electrical tape or a hockey stick type cloth tape or section it in shrink tubing; Or a combo of all like I had done years ago on my original harness above. A freak'in mess.

I was seriously looking at this really nice nylon sheathing that's out on the market but all the various branches of the harness won't really allow me to cleanly re-sheath the main section of it. A lot more trouble than its worth in my final estimation. Now if you leave the main portion in I think this stuff would work great for "end" repairs like recovering the headlight runs in the trunk area or the tail light run in the engine compartment.

85% of the harness has to pass through that metal shroud that's welded to the bottom of the trunk floor.(green arrow) It would be so much nicer and easier on everyone including and especially the harness if the factory just would have made that piece removable. Most of the harness has to be fed in there first for install or pulled out like one long root from the mouth of that shroud for removal. I suppose you could pull it out from the top but you'll of course have to remove the fuse block. At the time I was to scared to do that. Now that I am installing a new harness I may feed it in from the bottom of the sheath as the distance is shorter but not sure if that would be easier or not. Be interested in Jack's or Bruce's opinion on that. What's particularly hard on the wires especially as the thicker parts snake through is making the sharp corner at the base of this shroud down under where the floor boards would be. Also too while your pulling the harness out of the tunnel the old metal holding tabs just love to snare the loom as it passes by. It can be a total PIA if I haven't relayed that clearly already.

As for the heater leads those are not crimps but rather just slide on reusable collars. Easily transferable to your new leads.
Justin

Justin, this is exactly the info I needed to convince me to NOT pull it. I have a friend who is helping me some days. He likes to take stuff apart, but he is not the one who has to deal with putting it back together. He is a good friend and a good helper, but I have to keep him in check sometimes. This helps. Also, thanks for letting me know about the reusable wire keepers. Of course I did not throw them away, so one less think I have to buy.


Too bad the don't make shrink wrap with a zipper, LOL. My wires are pliable so I will def. let that sleeping dog sleep.

[JTR70]

Mark, From what I have seen your harness it looks pretty good save for the usual breaches in the cloth from age or being man handled. Unless you're planning on replacing it I'd leave that sleeping dog lay. Removal (& re-install)is very hard on it as it has to make a couple of sharp corners which will completely destroy what's left of the sheathing.


You'll either have to rewrap it old fashioned black electrical tape or a hockey stick type cloth tape or section it in shrink tubing; Or a combo of all like I had done years ago on my original harness above. A freak'in mess.

I was seriously looking at this really nice nylon sheathing that's out on the market but all the various branches of the harness won't really allow me to cleanly re-sheath the main section of it. A lot more trouble than its worth in my final estimation. Now if you leave the main portion in I think this stuff would work great for "end" repairs like recovering the headlight runs in the trunk area or the tail light run in the engine compartment.

85% of the harness has to pass through that metal shroud that's welded to the bottom of the trunk floor.(green arrow) It would be so much nicer and easier on everyone including and especially the harness if the factory just would have made that piece removable. Most of the harness has to be fed in there first for install or pulled out like one long root from the mouth of that shroud for removal. I suppose you could pull it out from the top but you'll of course have to remove the fuse block. At the time I was to scared to do that. Now that I am installing a new harness I may feed it in from the bottom of the sheath as the distance is shorter but not sure if that would be easier or not. Be interested in Jack's or Bruce's opinion on that. What's particularly hard on the wires especially as the thicker parts snake through is making the sharp corner at the base of this shroud down under where the floor boards would be. Also too while your pulling the harness out of the tunnel the old metal holding tabs just love to snare the loom as it passes by. It can be a total PIA if I haven't relayed that clearly already.

As for the heater leads those are not crimps but rather just slide on reusable collars. Easily transferable to your new leads.
Justin

[roy mawbey]

Mark,

Its possible?? after hitting submit for the thread entry you are not waiting for enough time for the upload to take place. Sometimes for me it might take a few minutes. If you keep hitting submit too early then it keeps eventually putting more than one posting on the thread.

By the way removing and refitting the wiring loom is quite a job. If the fabric covering is worn as I could see has in places why not recover it with tape in situ. Not easy I realise to tape up in the tunnel but taking into account that there is probably more wear and damage to the actual wiring itself at its connection ends might it not be easier to actually buy a new loom? I would think about that maybe before pulling it out.

Thats a lot of work you are doing !!

Roy

[merbesfield]

Mark,
Are you sure that's a 741 transmission? By the view of the underside of the tunnel it doesn't look like a 741 shift linkage.

It is stamped 741. That is part of my question. I don't know what part is correct but someone who knows more than me said it was mixed and matched linkage. For clarification, car is early 57 T1, engine is 69 912 and transmission is 741.

[Don C]

Mark,
Are you sure that's a 741 transmission? By the view of the underside of the tunnel it doesn't look like a 741 shift linkage.

[merbesfield]

Site is acting wired and will not take my complete post. Let me try this. Apologize for all the multiple posts. Justin you assistance is needed in the cleaning department.

Yea I know I got a little over excited.

Yea I know I got a little over excited. Sorry about that. I guess the most important thing or things would be anything I should attend to BEFORE I install the pan and lose access. And anything I may have not mentioned that should be done. So....

Wire harness
Acceleration rod bushings
Any cables that should or need to be installed now
Fiber Optic cable for the Drive by Wire System JK

Thanks for the help.

[merbesfield]

Whoa, Mark that's a lot of questions! Various solutions are available. Which ones are most pertinent to the stage you are at?

Yea I know I got a little over excited

[Jack Staggs]

Whoa, Mark that's a lot of questions! Various solutions are available. Which ones are most pertinent to the stage you are at?

[merbesfield]

Next question is regarding the wiring harness. Should I pull it out and re sheath it? The cloth covering is very weak. Or is this more work than needed? Not doing a concours resto but do want all mechanicals tended to. Just don't want to cause trouble if not needed or ignore it and regret it later. How hard is it to pull it out and recover it? What is the easiest way? Loosen screws at fuse block and pull from rear? Who sells the fabric sheath if I do need it. And the rubber cover that is at the engine area. Thanks for the help.

[merbesfield]

Work continues on the pans and such. I have been taking my time and trying to "enjoy the journey" vs. getting in a hurry and feeling stressed. I have some questions. I will try to be organized w my questions. Any help is appreciated.

1 My throttle lever looks like it could be bent? Can anyone tell by looking? Seems like the ball should be perpendicular to the rod but it is at a slight angle. Clearly I need a new linkage end and probably also the ball end as well. I see a repair kit is sold. My transmission is a 741.



2 I think this lever is from some other car/transmission. It is loose and slides on stud, and needs spacers or something. Does it get bronze bushings or just spacers. Does not seem like a bushings would fit.



3 Where do I find the little crimps for the new heater cables?



4 What do I use as cushion/guide for the throttle rod where it goes thru the tabs in the tunnel? Where these pieces vinyl or leather? Seems like a piece of Poly or Plastic might be better? Like used in later 911's.



5 Does the accelerator rod have any bend to it? This refers back to question no. 1 because mine had sight bend towards end after exiting the tunnel. Wondering if the bend was due to improper lever angle. Clearly I need a new link end kit.

[merbesfield]

I say go for it if it makes you feel better about your restoration Mark but realistically as long as civilized society holds along with the value of old cars our projects are not going to lead the lives at the mercy of nature as they once did. If you plan driving this car regularly on salt covered roads in winter then I can see maybe doing that. All that sealing has the potential to work against you too as it may create pockets that hold moisture that might find its way deep into the bowls of your frame. I my mind drainage is aces over sealing. Just my 2cents
Justin

Justin, I'm not sure I am following you. What are you referring to about sealing off? The underside? I was thinking about putting holes in the various cavities to allow water to flow out and Waxoyl type product to be sprayed inside. The seam sealers would only be on the seams to prevent additional moisture from going into the various joints that are rusting as we speak.

[JTR70]

I say go for it if it makes you feel better about your restoration Mark but realistically as long as civilized society holds along with the value of old cars our projects are not going to lead the lives at the mercy of nature as they once did. If you plan driving this car regularly on salt covered roads in winter then I can see maybe doing that. All that sealing has the potential to work against you too as it may create pockets that hold moisture that might find its way deep into the bowls of your frame. I my mind drainage is aces over sealing. Just my 2cents
Justin

[merbesfield]

As I move closer to the end goal of installing my pans I started to think about the interior finishes. There has been plenty written about exterior finishes I.e., coating bare metal, SKS Stone Guard etc, but not so much about the interior. Obviously it will get a through painted and seam sealer, but how about Schutz or the Wurth Stone guard on the inside? My car, which was very original had sound deading panels on the sides and I think something on the bottom. It was hard to tell with all the years of gunk and whatever PO had applied to the inner floors over the years. I did find one post where Jim Liberty said he used Zero Rust and Dynamat type product, but no mention of undercoating. I am thinking about this process.

1. Repair all the rust. duh!
2. Use hypodermic needle to inject Zero Rust into joints.
3. Apply Zero Rust or Epoxy Primer over entire floor pan inside and out.
4. Use Seam Sealer (brush-able and tube caulk variety) liberally on all joints and cracks.
5. Tape off areas of high tolerance and screw holes such as seat rails and anywhere something needs to fit tight.
6. Apply liberal amounts of Wurth SKS Stone Guard to inside. (This would be shot in conjunction with underside.
7. After plenty of drying time apply finish coat of a basic semi-gloss flat black for protection and even look.

Does anyone have any issues with what I am proposing? One I have is that the only issue I have with Zero Rust vs. Epoxy primer is that if not fully cured over a long time (how long) it is re activated with the solvents in the brush-able seam sealer. This created a bit of a mess when it happened on my 912 project. But I have done it before w no issues. With he Epoxy, once dry, it's not going anywhere. Just more work with paint prep vs Zero Rust out of can.

[merbesfield]

External reinforcement runner completed.

[JTR70]

So it's the old "external reinforcement runner" is it! That's a mouth full. It is fun to be excited again about being in the shop and fabricating. Sometimes it's hard to get through the hard dark jobs we have to do in order to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I am glad we have you, Justin, or torch bearer to help light the way. Thanks also to all the other great contributors out there in space.

I think was the term used, let me check my parts book again. Thanks for saying so, but I'm in the middle of learning just like you guys. Fortunately we have our resident professionals here to help us all along as we go. keep up the great progress on her Mark!
Justin