57 356 A mild resto

[John Pierce]

You are correct Justin. Either way, I think it would be easy to install after buttoning up the floor.

JP

[JTR70]

A-car tunnels do not have a full dedicated conduit for the tach cable as John is finding on his T6.
If you take a look at the tunnel repair on the coupster you'll see partial sleeves on the upper corners of the tunnel running the length of the seat tracks. The loom goes through the right side but I'm not sure about the other side for the tach as I don't think the coupling bung on the end will fit through there. Bruce or Jack would certainly know the path it takes so I hope they'll chime in here.

[merbesfield]

I left the tach cable out until later as it's pretty easy to install through the conduit.

Ah, that is what I was trying to figure out, that there is a dedicated conduit for the Tach cable. If that is the case then yes it should be easy to install later. This is what happens when you take things apart and then stop work. I forget stuff, and I don't have a lot of knowledge to remember in the first place so that is dangerous. Haha

[John Pierce]

I left the tach cable out until later as it's pretty easy to install through the conduit.

[merbesfield]

John, thank you for pointing me back to that post. Helped tremendously to jog the grey matter. One question, did you install the tachometer cable prior to welding pan?

[John Pierce]

Hey Steve,

Happy New Years!

I installed some things before hand and greased things up. A lot easier now than later. Here is a link:

http://www.abcgt.com/forum/14-356-Restoration-Projects/14008-63-356B-T-6-Rebuild.html?limit=6&start=690


You might consider replacing the gas and lines as they're over 50 years old.

HTH.

John

[merbesfield]

[quote="merbesfield" post=36653]Justin, I am a bit confused, which is not surprising given the length in time since work. I "thought" I needed to install all my cables etc prior to installing the floor pan. Obviously they were designed to be installed after for serviceability, but would be easier now. This is what I was going with. Does the tach cable have its own conduit? So do the other cables also get installed later? The main harness is still in the car and I was not planning on removing it. Thanks for helping me get my car and mind back on track. Mark[/quote

Can anyone give me a quick answer in the cables and stuff that goes inside the tunnel. Do I do anything prior to welding floor or does it all go in after?

The fabric covering on my harness is frayed. I tried to wrap it but cannot get enough slack and it's NOT coming out. So I have decided to cover it in modern split loom. It will not be seen and is a more modern approach to the protection of wires.

[merbesfield]

Justin, I am a bit confused, which is not surprising given the length in time since work. I "thought" I needed to install all my cables etc prior to installing the floor pan. Obviously they were designed to be installed after for serviceability, but would be easier now. This is what I was going with. Does the tach cable have its own conduit? So do the other cables also get installed later? The main harness is still in the car and I was not planning on removing it. Thanks for helping me get my car and mind back on track. Mark

[JTR70]

I think its promising that you're at least beginning to "look" in your old projects direction again Mark. The tachometer cable definitely goes in after the floor installation. As for the best cable?? Like most of these new parts its realistically down to about 1 maybe 2 actual manufacturers of the part itself. Then all the various 356 parts distributors put their decal or bag over it.
Hope to see some progress soon.
Justin

[merbesfield]

When reinstalling the cables do I fill the tubes with grease? If so what grease is recommended and is there a trick to getting it into the tubes?

[merbesfield]

I actually looked at my car today. Hey baby steps. I need to order a Tachometer cable. Where is the best place to get? Mine is original and has what looks like foam covering. I see cheap ones and expensive ones listed. What's best? Also, can the cable be installed after my floor pan is installed or does it need to go in prior to floor welding. I also need to order heater cables. I have the emergency brake cables and clutch cable.

[bbspdstr]

Mark,
Are you sure that's a 741 transmission? By the view of the underside of the tunnel it doesn't look like a 741 shift linkage.

It is stamped 741. That is part of my question. I don't know what part is correct but someone who knows more than me said it was mixed and matched linkage. For clarification, car is early 57 T1, engine is 69 912 and transmission is 741.

Most likely, it is a 741 with a 644 'nose' and selector that then works with the earlier shift linkage. T-1 torsion bar tubes have a solid center that precludes the formed dent in the center bottom for shifter clearance of the B/C cars. T-2 A cars have a hollow center that allows the top 'dent' to be replicated from underneath once a window is made for access. Heat-n-beat with a rounded air-hammer head and use all 741 shifter compontents to get rid of the 'monkey-motion' early shifting. Some just exit the trans and support the shift tube above the tunnel, but that's 'racer stuff.'

-Bruce

[merbesfield]

Just bought this tape. Looks good.





http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00EH6IZ6Y/ref=sklp/186-7287210-3974332

[merbesfield]

Mark, your wiring loom looks pretty good in the tunnel. Removal of the loom would likely ruin it, as it is extremely difficult even to feed a new one through the chassis with new flexible wires and jackets. Be sure to look very closely at the sides of the tunnel for nails that were used to hold the carpet in place. I have seen T1 examples where nails were used there and punctured the loom causing difficult to diagnose intermittent short circuits. Address the frayed outer cloth jackets that are worn with friction tape. This type of tape was used throughout the production of 356, so it will not look out of place on casual inspection. Use a small black zip tie on either end to prevent unravelling. I'm assuming that ALL of your wires are vinyl covered. Otherwise, you are toast.

My harness is in fact really nice except for the ends around the tail lights and engine area. As for the frayed cover, it is more of a disentgration of the cloth than anything else. So best to leave it for the next person. As mentioned, I don't think there is enough slack in there to actuall get a tape roll around it. I will see about small lengths of tape for short runs of coverage using the cloth electircal tape as I agree it is better looking.

Should any of the cables be run now, BEFORE, welding the pan? Or are they subject to damage from the heat and best left for AFTER welding?

[Jack Staggs]

Mark, your wiring loom looks pretty good in the tunnel. Removal of the loom would likely ruin it, as it is extremely difficult even to feed a new one through the chassis with new flexible wires and jackets. Be sure to look very closely at the sides of the tunnel for nails that were used to hold the carpet in place. I have seen T1 examples where nails were used there and punctured the loom causing difficult to diagnose intermittent short circuits. Address the frayed outer cloth jackets that are worn with friction tape. This type of tape was used throughout the production of 356, so it will not look out of place on casual inspection. Use a small black zip tie on either end to prevent unravelling. I'm assuming that ALL of your wires are vinyl covered. Otherwise, you are toast.