57 356 A mild resto

[merbesfield]

[merbesfield]

Got some good shop time in today. Got the PS door bottom installed. Debated whether to do front or underside first, underside won out. Figured there were more things with that piece that I needed access for. With my Finger belt sander I should be about to reach most of the backside of the door skin. That tool is amazing. Love it.

Rough fit.



Followed by Dykum and precise fit.





Then the fun begins

[merbesfield]

[JTR70]

That is a brazed mess and right the standard repair section offering won't take you past his handy work.

If this was in front of me I would take a trashed door like the one above and make my own repair section. I'd cut this one just under the handle relief and just above its cancer then heel over a new flange at the bottom of it. With his approach it would get you well past the standard 5 inch cutoff line and its already got the gentle crown in it provided it hasn't suffered damage in the past. At this point you have to go higher and the higher you go the better as the door's profile crowns more giving much more control and stability after its welded. Out in the flats (that 5 inch area) is where is gets tricky. Trevor's door skin runs 750.00 so it may not be your answer as I don't know what you're willing to spend. The lower hinge deformation is from the rust swelling in between those two panels. Phil's repair would be the way to go to ensure its all out.

The rear quarters and not really panels but just padding backed covers.

Bottom would be secured to tack strip

And this sewn in cardboard lip inserts into that steel runner you asked about. Auto's international can easily whip you up a pair.

Best of luck on that door. I'll be watching with interest, its a messy one for sure.

Justin

[merbesfield]

Got a few good hours in tonight. Worked on both ends of the door bottoms in preparation for fitting the actual bottom. They were ok, but had pin holes so I cut them back to solid metal and replaced each.

[foamcar]

Mark
The door hinge should be flat. As you can see, a brazed replacement piece has been installed. Easy part to make and do it right. The part laying on top:





Phil

[merbesfield]

[John Pierce]

The replacement panels that are sold are not wide enough to cover the damaged area on your door as you're finding out. You could do what Justing did and purchase a whole skin and use only the part that you need. It's a tough call as the welding on the convex surface is tough to do. I did the same on my doors:

http://www.abcgt.com/forum/14-356-Restoration-Projects/14008-63-356B-T-6-Rebuild.html?limit=6&start=762

HTH.

Cheers,

John

[merbesfield]

[quote="John Pierce" post=41473]That's so unfortunate how it was repaired previously. What a mess!! I think that you're going to find that the thinned metal is not worth saving. You may want to cut your losses now and go for replacing the panel. Trying to shrink that metal to get rid of the waves will drive you batty.[/quote

That's what I'm concerned about. I really don't want to do the entire door skin tho bc it is so nice everywhere else. Would you recommend I get a full skin and go higher up on the door. But then I will be in the middle of the door panel where it is just as floppy. Verse up near the ridge like Justin did. Hum not sure what's best. Opinions welcome. As I saidIi already have the panel so may just try it. I could do a backing plate to help w blow through, though I don't like doing this type of repair. Course it will be inside the door and not visible.

[merbesfield]

I also need advice on my missing rear quarter interior panels. I have searched all over and cannot find them. No idea how they could be lost. Are these panels available new? What do they look like? Are they just flat panels? I have reviewed my old pics and they were definitely in the car. No clue how I lost them. Let me know if you know who sells these.

[John Pierce]

That's so unfortunate how it was repaired previously. What a mess!! I think that you're going to find that the thinned metal is not worth saving. You may want to cut your losses now and go for replacing the panel. Trying to shrink that metal to get rid of the waves will drive you batty.

[merbesfield]

Is the metal where the lower hung sits supposed to be flat? I am assuming it is and that over the years the door has been tweaked and stressed. The bump stops have the usual deformations. The resto os the door is pretty solid. I debated about doing patches vs the entire lower panel but in the end I decided it will be much easier doing the entire piece vs patches.

[merbesfield]

Well I started with my worst door. I figured I might as well jump in feet first. The PO did not do me any favors. The way he did the shitty repair has caused e so much more work in the end. Fist off he beat the door panel in so he could lay a patch panel over the top of the door without cutting the original door panel out. Secondly he used the entire patch panel, which happens to be exactly the same size as the replacement panel max ht. 5 inches. I spent a ton of time peeling the old patch off and carefully grinding back the tack welds, which are all done in brass. Since I wasn't sure wether brass would weld or not I tried to remove as much as possible, but the real problem is that the remaining sheet metal is wavy and thin so I am starting w a very bad beginning piece of steel. I could cut higher, but I don't have the size patch to do it. I could get an entire door skin like Justin, but I really don't want to have to replace more of the panel. I will give it a try. Worst case I cut it all back off and start over. I also removed the underside getting it ready for the new piece. I am thinking I will do what Justin did and install the skin first so I will have some access to work the backside and panel. I am sure what I have done so far is the easy part LOL. I about three hours into it so far just in preparation and cleanup.

[merbesfield]

Justin, thank you very much. Just what I needed. Now if I can just find my interior panels! That flange is such a crappy looking thing. I hate to add it back to such a nice interior. The way it is designed is a perfect water catch and rust pocket. Any ideas? All I can think of is to be sure rubs are open to flow and seam seal the shit out of the inside joint between the qtr panel and the flange so no moisture can get in there.

[JTR70]

Sorry for the late response. Here's some detailed shots of that flange strip:

Orientation at the front.

Width in inches

and in MM's


Orientation at firewall.

Sits just below the tip of the ribs and spot welded at the bottom edge.

Approximately 26 inches in length.
HTH