57 356 A mild resto

[merbesfield]

All areas; it was good forearm work

Too much work for me! My hands and arms are already a wreck from Needle Scaler during sound deadening removal as next post will show. Caulk gun for me.

[JTR70]

All areas; it was good forearm work

[merbesfield]

[quote="JTR70" post=40234]Looking great Mark! Blind spots all coated with Por15 I see.
I've posted it before but I really like 3M's "heavy Drip check" in a tube. That's what I used on my car. So glad to see you making progress here again!
Justin[/quote

Justin, did you use the drip check from the tube on all areas? Wasn't that challenging squeezing it all out a tube?

[JTR70]

Looking great Mark! Blind spots all coated with Por15 I see.
I've posted it before but I really like 3M's "heavy Drip check" in a tube. That's what I used on my car. So glad to see you making progress here again!
Justin

[merbesfield]

Would some of you post up your methods and materials used for seam sealer? Inside and underside please. I have used both the caulk tube and the brushable. I see a lot of guys use tape to get perfect lines, which I'm not sold on for this car. Plus I don't remember ever seeing anything done to perfection from the factory. On my other cars I have gooped it on and brushed it down being more concerned about protection and never wanting to see anymore rust ever again. Plus by the time it is Shutzed over will you really notice? On the inside it gets covered by sound deadening (see above) and carpet. As for brands, I have used Wurth brushable and some Eastwood also. Caulk tube stuff was 3M second tier called Dynatron. Worked pretty well.

[merbesfield]

Progress! Getting closer to floors. No glamour shots, just small steps.

[bbspdstr]

"PS: You ever gonna have an open house at your place? I'm in!"
Don, any time you want to stop by the shop is fine. I am here most Saturdays. That applies to anyone who may have an interest.

I had a true "open house" when I moved into this shop in 2000 and a tech session or two since then. Always well-attended back then but the local 356 scene has become hard to organize in the last few years. A few have tried to organize informal events (like drives) but cancelled due to "lack of interest."

Now, it's so busy and crammed with "stuff" I am embarrassed to have a formal party, but there are 'interesting' things here to see occasionally:


As for sound deadening, I just walked out into the shop and photo'd my most used personal equipment. Ear protection, face and eye protection, hand protection and back protection. Out in the shop I or someone(s) else are always hammering, grinding...or both. Even using the shrinking disc is too loud for unprotected ears.

My hearing is getting worse. Too often during our typical "height of immortality" we thought "aw, this little bit of standing in front of the rock concert speakers won't bother me later" or going to drag races (or any motor races) or at either end of an airstrip, etc. I did a disproportionate amount of "all of the above." Now:


-Bruce

[jjeffries]

My suggestions certainly aren't apropos to any kind of authenticity. The Honda "tiles" I mentioned would be good if you were doing a totally stripped cell from scratch and weren't pursuing a concours title, but they be more in line with a 911 than 356.

As mentioned, I have a 911 SC coupe, plus an Alfa GTV coupe. Both are of course way noisier than a modern car, especially in terms of wind noise. As Bruce notes, it's part of the total experience, but the 911 fan noise can actually hurt my ye olde ears, especially if I'm getting over a head cold or similar. At my local hardware store I found some nice Made in Sweden (!) ear protectors, soft orange silicone plugs on a springy plastic, headphone-like clip/frame, which hangs down by your chin versus sitting atop your noggin. They are rated for gun ranges and help take that metallic whiny edge off.

[Don C]

Bruce,
Mine is a driver, 32,000 miles in 4 years of constant attention to the small stuff. I feel pretty confident in the mechanicals, just the body is a mess from Bubba doing his thing in the 80's. Let the next guy do the body work, I'm having too much fun driving it!
Would be nice to have it a little quieter but for now ear plugs work on the highway!
Regards,
Don
PS: You ever gonna have an open house at your place? I'm in!

[bbspdstr]

[jjeffries]

Jack, I believe it's the 3M 38500 product....available to civilians via Amazon or even Walmart. Has adhesive backing and doesn't need heat. Good for floors and flat areas with reinforcing ribs stamped into them. Has a black finish with diamond pattern.
But now I remember what I was really thinking of and describing, and that was a Genuine Honda sound proofing pad which collision repair shops use on replacement panels. This is the stuff that is activated by heat. Any Honda car dealer that is involved in selling wholesale/collision would know the part number and either have it in stock or be able to get it. Comes in sheets/pads. That's what I'd go for.
Since I'm on a tear, Lowes carries a cost effective alternative to Dymat, which is a flexible aluminum backed buytl tape, 6" wise and comes in rolls, made dor roofing/flashing repairs. Very similar to Dymat et al. Best of luck.

[Jack Staggs]

I would like to know more about this 3M product. I often need small pieces for patching.
Thanks in advance.

[jjeffries]

I think the whole Dymat thing has become a bit de rigeur and thus a nice income stream for the producers and installers alike. It will be a nightmare to remove for the next restorer. I often wish my 911 SC was quieter inside, my 50 year old ears have had their fair share of abuse from music and power tools before I understood the need to take better care of them. That said, I wouldn't go for all the mass loaded vinyl etc that folks over on Pelican are using in their efforts to civilize their old p-cars...I add too much mass myself. For actual restoration, 3M makes a lovely OEM-grade tile that you hit with a heat gun; it comforms to surfaces and looks "factory". John.

[merbesfield]

I just did my 912 with dynamat, and a layer of their 3/8 Dynapad over that behind the seats and under the floor. I really can't tell any difference in the sound levels. After it was all in and new carpets, I think it's just as loud as before we started.

I hear this same comments time and again. That Dynamat did not help. I have read a little and sound control is very technical. Not just as simple as sticking sound control mat down. Something to do with decoupling sound transfer or something similar in techno speak. Requires different mats and materials bla bla but I don't remember the details. Just that peel and stick does not work, as you said.

[Jbrooks]

I just did my 912 with dynamat, and a layer of their 3/8 Dynapad over that behind the seats and under the floor. I really can't tell any difference in the sound levels. After it was all in and new carpets, I think it's just as loud as before we started.