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Very cool lid.
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Absolutely love the hood. A work of art. Made by hand ..... again!1960 356B T5 - under major resurrection.
356 Registry main thread;
http://forum.porsche356registry.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=35854
1968 912 - running like a scalded cat.Comment
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Hello - Yes, the new Headliner material is correct for all T2 356A through the T5/T6 356 B and T6 356C coupes.Originally posted by John Pierce View Post
On the first series T1 356A coupe Headliner from late 1955 to early 1957 the diamond shape perforation pattern is very similar but the hole size was slightly different.
A number of my Headliners have now been installed by top restorers in the USA and Europe. I have in stock the Coupe Headliner $600.00 - Manual Sunroof Headliner $650.00 - Electric Sunroof Headliner $695.00.
Add $20.00 for shipping
Michael Doyle
2097 Pierpont Blvd.
Ventura, CA 93001
md4mdoyle@yahoo.comComment
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Restoring original heater slides:
Fun little diversion projects before I can really get back on it.
Again keeping my old friend Craig's recommendation of building this car with as many original components as possible I removed the slider door from each cover for a complete clean and polish.
Cleaned, polished with slider reinstalled. Some old scars and noogies remain, even some slight electrolysis on the back of one where the carpet had held some moisture way back when but all part of their charm.
The reproduction's offered are actually quite good and near spot on but this was an easy and satisfying little project to preserve a little more authenticity in honor of my late friend.
Thanks for looking!
JustinLast edited by JTR70; 06-30-2020, 08:01 AM.Justin RioComment
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Prepping the oil tank for final installation:
No reason at this point why it cannot go in for good, so in its going. Coated the exposed side in undercoat for a more durable surface.
I really like this 3M coating for small areas and parts. The finish is not too aggressive and its more of a brown-black tone which replicates tar very nicely.
Before the tank can go in I had to adjust and set the rear bumper and its irons to their final adjusted position.
The reason is that the final bolt on the frame side sits behind the tank and there is no getting to it without disturbing it. The bumpers needs to come off again but this bracket will remain in its adjusted position.
At long last the tank is mounted for the foreseeable.Last edited by JTR70; 03-24-2021, 09:52 PM.Justin RioComment
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Screen/fender brace installation:
Tank screen received the same undercoating treatment.
Screen in for good.
Always assumed it was mounted with bolts after seeing some vintage photos it was clear that its mounted originally with cheese head screws.
Filler neck and vent hose installed. It was one of those very fun and rewarding instant gratification sessions.
Onto the next deal...
Thanks for looking!
JustinJustin RioComment
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Some really special features and touches.
1960 356B T5 - under major resurrection.
356 Registry main thread;
http://forum.porsche356registry.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=35854
1968 912 - running like a scalded cat.Comment
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Wire harness weather sheathing under rear seat pan:
I was looking for a replacement protective sheathing for the harness run under the rear seat pan. I remember the original being of a thin foam rubber type. Jack Staggs had recommended using bicycle inner tube as a stand in replacement. Sounded like the perfect answer and I was going to go with that idea until I had a look under this car where the restorers had used that very material. This car was only recently assembled with no exposure to the elements or even engine heat but the inner tube was already cracking. I was now back in search for another material to use.
I was back looking into a durable foam rubber type sheathing. I figured out my minimum ID and went hunting. After several dead ends I found what I was looking for in these foam rubber grips for mountain bike handle bars.
The ID was perfect though the wall thickness was slightly heavier than what I remember the original stuff being. Other than that I had my answer; foam rubber and most definitely on the durable side being for handle bar use.
Prepping for installation: shaved the OD down a bit on one end for an insertion into the conduit existing the tunnel.
Passing the harness through. Again the ID was the perfect size for the wire leads.
Last edited by JTR70; 07-29-2021, 06:46 AM.Justin RioComment
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Part 2:
The being for handlebars they were precut to length making me a little short on the overall length needed to cover the run in one piece. A problem soon turned into an advantage as I decided to place the joint in between the two starter leads that need to exit mid point out of the sides of the sheath. Making the exit hole for the first lead just ahead of the joint here.
Those starter leads exit in opposite directions so having the ability to slide those out the sides first then pushing this joint together after the fact made much easier and cleaner on the sheath versus trying to fish the ends out as a one piece covering.
This material just loves super glue so worries about this joint opening back up in the future.
Joint glued making this run all ready for final installation.
That shaved down end inserted into the conduit. Securing this end always seemed a bit iffy at best. I bought this shrink collar in hopes of bridging these that junction securely.
Last edited by JTR70; 07-29-2021, 07:20 AM.Justin RioComment
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Part 3:
I put my heat gun on it but I was limited as to the amount of heat I could throw at it for fear of ruining and blistering the sheath. I ended up taping the joint as I remember it being when I first pulled the harness out. I may follow up with a zip tie later. Anyway moving on for now.
The rest of the run now fully tab locked into position. Went ahead and taped the tang leads just to make a life a little easier on that foam covering.
The entire run feels firm , secure and well insulated.
The additional wall thickness secures the tubes end at the entrance into the engine compartment. Couldn't have been happier with the final result. Material is close to what was there originally and thoroughly insulates the new harness. Best 20 bucks I ever spent.
Getting that section out of the way allowed me to finally run the rest of the harness through the engine compartment.
Thanks for looking!!
JustinLast edited by JTR70; 07-29-2021, 07:40 AM.Justin RioComment
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Great wiring solutions!Comment
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Thanks Phil, It should hold up just fine under there...I hope.
Ran into another little snag while running loom around the back of the engine compartment.
The wire lead for the reverse light, the hard plastic tube on top in this photo should have exited a few inches back.
It should have forked back where the plastic sheathing begins down in cloth sheathing to make it into that hole. I investigated all my possible options and if I doubled it back to the hole the lead itself was then too short to reach the reverse light.
I really hated to do it but my only option was to cut the cloth sheathing back and free the lead back where the hole is.
Sheathing re-taped and lead now exits into its hole as it should have. As nice as these Y-n-Z's harnesses are they are still reproductions that need correcting so they'll fit correctly. I was so disappointed that I had to cut into that cloth sheathing but I care less and less as time goes on. A lot more fish to fry....
Thanks for looking!
JustinLast edited by JTR70; 07-30-2021, 09:29 PM.Justin RioComment
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