58367 The $75 Junkyard Carrera coupe restoration

[roy mawbey]

Drew is correct I only have the RHD original version to look at. Justin I have never removed my wiring only replaced flasher units etc so I don't have many clear photos. I will attach some which might help but I have no idea on the LHD routing of the loom. I do know the headlight area has holes and rubber gromets to accept the wiring through the side bulkheads. I found this registry link which might help a bit.
http://forum.porsche356registry.org/viewtopic.php?p=17903
Below some of my photos All 6v of course!!
Fuse block



Flasher



relay




Not much use I think?

Roy

[roy mawbey]

A clearer view of the fuse ratings in colour !! not faded



Roy

[JTR70]

Thank you Drew, that photo does shed a bit of light. I realize everything would be flipped on Roy's car but I was just interested in seeing shots of any forward tunnel area just to gain more knowledge on how the factory laid in the lines which I could hopefully interpret for my purposes.

Roy, thanks for the photos and sorry for the confusion but I'm interested in detailed shots of the forward bulkhead/ tunnel area under the floorboards. I realize that's sort of a pain to get at in a dressed car so if its too much please don't trouble yourself. I'll eventually get it dialed in.
Thanks again for the photos and help you guys!
Justin

[roy mawbey]

Justin,

I found some 10 year old photos on my PC when I rebuilt the petcock.
The photo shows the loom going through a grommet under the front floorboard. A green wire I was using then for a lighting modification is also going through the grommet. ( Thats no longer used )

The loom is held in place by a clamp I think it might help.



Roy

[Jack Staggs]

Justin, that bolt you questioned holds the end of the sheath for the hand throttle, with a "P" clamp.

[JTR70]

Thanks Roy!

Ah, that makes perfect sense now, Thank you Jack!

4/22/18
Feeding more wire



Learned the hard way years ago that the spade end of the battery cable will not clear the exit conduit.

Has to be fed in rear to front... unless you want to put a new end on it.

It took some doing and was touch and go but I finally got the loom through the tunnel conduit. It really got tight when the power leads to the starter entered the conduit. I was down to small fractions of movement at a time but I remember feeling extremely thankful each time it gave way ever so slightly. There was a soft rubber jacket that went over this section of loom as it exited the tunnel. I'll have to try and find something comparable. If anyone has any recommendations I'd appreciate a tip otherwise I'll let everyone know what I eventually find.


Time to feed the headlight leads into the trunk.

Piece of cake compared to the first two legs of this journey. Only thing I really had to watch was that each particular lead exited and was oriented to its correct side.

Just little more of the trunk lead left to go but its almost there.


A very preliminary mock up based on both Drew and Roy's photos (thanks again guys!) I may tuck the dimmer switch lead under for a more natural fit... Again its all a rough mock up. I'm not committing to anything, not even the tab clamps to secure it until I'm sure the entire loom reaches everything and is exactly where it needs to be.


Dimmer loom only gets one tab clamp on this T1. Drew's T2 shows two. evolutionary thing...

Trunk leads pulled in fully and now ready to continue on to the final conduits up into the headlight buckets. Have to say I am really enjoying this stage of the build. Its clean work, relaxing, and instantly gratifying. Its like building a big model Savoring it while I can.

Thanks for looking!
Justin

[Jack Staggs]

A piece of skinny tire bicycle inner tube will work well on the rear of the loom to the starter. Any bike shop will have used ones they are throwing away.

[JTR70]

Perfect Jack, thank you for the tip!!!!

4/23/18

Headlight leads pulled through right conduit

New fuse block mounted after recieving my new mounting stand-off spacers. Fits and looks great. Lacing it up here shortly.

Headlight and signal leads pulled through. Had to use a lead wire to blaze the trail to allow me to pull it as it refused to let me push it through.

Easier to pull the ground wire through on its own after the rest of the loom was in.

All the leads in on this side.

Rubber grommet added to the bucket then the signal leads where pulled through the bottom. Repeat left side next.
Thanks for looking!
Justin

[bbspdstr]

Sorry to be late for the wiring party. Away for 2 days at the big Hershey meet and back for Sunday's big baseball tournament with a nephew's 14 year old son in a travel league, so timing was tight right through yesterday.

I have a service job now that is a VERY original T-1 Coupe but ready to go home, so I dare not go backwards by removing much to reveal wiring in the tunnel or trunk....but here is the fuse panel with cover removed:

The loom's woven cover can be seen as tan, from fading. You can see a dark wrap on twin wires in a fuse terminal, one to denote it's route/direction which is different from the other same color, same sized wire sharing the fuse.
Otherwise, the topic seems to be covered and executed well, Justin. Superlative work as usual.
-Bruce

[Phil Planck]

Thanks Justin
I hope to be going thru part of this process this summer on Foam Car. Dash and front end wiring. I took lots of pics under dash before removal, hopefully enough.
Your doing a great job both with your hands and camera.
Phil

[JTR70]

Thanks just the same Bruce! Absolutely that timing issue is everything.

Thank you Phil. That's the way to do it alright. I sure wish I would have taken more pictures before I started tearing it apart. That's the big mistake I made as a young teenager enthusiast. I was so caught up in the fun of breaking it down that I failed to note the placement of things as well as bag and mark all the original hardware carefully. All those stray bolts and screws you just don't care about until its time to put the car back together. Live and learn...hopefully. Best of luck reinstalling your harness. It can be trying at times.
Thanks again guys!
Justin

4/25/18

Left side now fed through the conduit. This officially completes this stage. Now its onto hooking up the fuse block and final adjusting of the loom and lock tabbing it in place.

[bbspdstr]

"I sure wish I would have taken more pictures before I started tearing it apart. That's the big mistake I made as a young teenager enthusiast. I was so caught up in the fun of breaking it down that I failed to note the placement of things as well as bag and mark all the original hardware carefully. All those stray bolts and screws you just don't care about until its time to put the car back together."

We ALL have done that. I have read the "restoration how-to DIY" books and don't even know if those have "Before you do ANYTHING....." comments in there, because I always ignored the beginning and went right to the part on which I was stuck.

Most of us have long adhered to the "....when in doubt, (then) read the instructions" slogan.

We have now been blessed by technology advancements that allow us to use a camera that is also a phone (remember when they were amazing phones that also allowed picture taking?) There is no reason now to not take copious pictures of the "before" IF that is how we began the restoration. I pity those who do not have a nearby similar model of the car being assembled for reference if they disassembled the car without records and over time OR inherited the car disassembled.

My biggest frustration with wiring on a 356 is the finish of the "extra" wires at the sides of the battery box if foglights are not involved. There was a way the original assemblers coiled them and each time I see an original unmolested 356, I forget to take a picture(s) so I can reproduce that "roll and tuck" appearance.

Here is that area of the VERY original T-1 A that is waiting for it's owner to get a sunny day to drive it home. I missed that part of the originality, as someone has been there before...drat!

-Bruce

[P356A]

If you take a look at the 356 Registry Magazine Vol. 28-6. There is a short Story about the unmolested T1 Carrera #58836. Page 10 has a small Picture from that area.





-Lutz

[bbspdstr]

Thank you very much, Lutz, great illustration. It looks so..."fresh." Almost too nice for being 60~ years old.

I wonder how that textured coating on the restraining strap stayed that unmolested when bent over the wires. That's hard to get such perfection, special 4-cam car attention or not.

Still, it looks proper to me even though I have trouble getting new wire to behave, flat in a coil, even with a heat gun.

Thanks again for the reference and the picture,
-Bruce

[JTR70]

Thank you for that additional confirmation photo Lutz. Even though my car has been thoroughly molested I do remember its leads looking like that before I removed them for the first time in about 1988.

When this speedster project came to me several years ago I was at least developing some forethought in taking documentary photos. So glad I did. I at least know how the washers on the ground leads go.

Justin

4/29/18
Begin wiring up the fuse block


Making sure the block is oriented correctly per instruction. The top of the OG block has terminals which are linked. New block shows corresponding linked together terminals.

As for reference through all of this I am fortunate to have a factory shop manual and the original fuse block to this car which has never been unplugged.

And last but not least a detailed diagram of all components with wire codes provided by Y-n-Z's.

Started out with a mock up arrangement of the upper leads.

Then began arranging and separating the bottom leads.

Then it dawned on me that the bottom leads need to be set first before the block can even be mounted. The shoulder of the sheathing will be directly in my way if I try to feed them in after the fact. I'm learning...its my first one.

Almost there...

The instruction sheet and manual is nice but there is no substitute having the original example right next to me as this goes. So glad I never broke this down.

Thanks for looking!
Justin