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1957 Sandblasted Coupe
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Steve,
Not sure how I missed your thread. Welcome. After looking at what you have and knowing where my personal skills are, I don't think I would even begin to attempt to use that "new" fender. It is really far off and with my limited skills it would be a complete exercise in frustration and end up looking looking bad. Sorry if that sounds negative, but I just hate to see you start something with a bad beginning. It's not going to get any better. I would recommend finding the best part you can find or make small patches as needed to not lose the factory shape you have. If that makes sense. I would also recommend you start play welding with lots of scrap metal. Don't just start in on the car. Welding is not hard, but it does require some practice to get good result as and importantly avoid further warping the new and old work. Practice practice, practice. You will quickly see what works and doesn't. Good luck and KTF, There are lots of great guys here to help along the way.Mark Erbesfield
57 356A
65 911
68 912
73 911S
66 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ45LV
79 450SL Dad's old car
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Thanks for encouragement Mark.. really need it at times
OK I'm out of the naughty corner, done my home work and now back at work. Getting back at is great after a break; spent the day fitting the longitudinal, on off and on again many times ! I got it almost right and held with some screws, I cut it in half at the heater tube support as per the 'bible' - makes life soooooo much easier.
I need to work out the rocker fitment, it's the original I cut off with a new front "shelf" ...so should go right back, but doesn't The new front shelf (part of the rocker) is fowling the longitudinal or vica versa...(older picture of a trial fitting of the rocker.)
but will look with a fresh eye in the morning. BUT (on page 37 of Foam Car it shows the front 'shelf' sitting OVER the inner back tray ? Mine was under and the other side confirms this. Is this A Vs BC thing ?
On the bottom edge in the wheel well, the old spot welds appear high relative to the new metal flange, not sure why but think it will work - will drill new holes for the "spot welds"
The bottom edge had rotted...
so had to scarf on a small strip...
Thanks for all the support.
Steve
(& Tips and Advice always welcome)
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Maybe this will help - this is as delivered ! The rocker appears to lay UNDER the shelf - but with all the repairs I have see on this site (John and Foam Car) that shelf extends out to fender - so is this some old repair I am seeing ? (my drill holes of course....) Lovely ventilation slots too, ....very Ferrari
Thanks for all the support.
Steve
(& Tips and Advice always welcome)
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Thanks John and Bruce, that is exactly what I needed to see; clearly someone has been in there before and repaired it "the other way". Just goes to show that nothing in this game can be taken for granted.
So spent the afternoon fitting the longitudinal and then the rocker panel with the front shelf now over the existing,. What a difference a few mm make (said the actress to the Bishop the hinge mount on the body now realigns pretty much dead on, with the cut marks on the rocker.
[attachment]DSCN2081.JPG[/attachment]Thanks for all the support.
Steve
(& Tips and Advice always welcome)
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Thanks John and Bruce, that is exactly what I needed to see. I think John I am following the same path as you .... ? However clearly someone has been "in there" before and repaired it "the other way". Just goes to show that nothing in this game can be taken for granted however good the seams !
So spent the afternoon fitting the longitudinal and then the rocker panel with the front shelf now over the existing,. What a difference a few mm make (said the actress to the Bishop ) the cut hinge mount on the body now realigns pretty much dead on, with the cut marks on the rocker- will be better still when I come to weld...
I will also copy Justin's idea (thanks yet again) of painting the longitudinal with primer AND top coat before I fit the rocker, it's pretty neigh impossible to get paint up around those bends once the rocker is on.Thanks for all the support.
Steve
(& Tips and Advice always welcome)
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Coming along nicely Steve!
Pre-a and A-cars have the drain tray mounted below the longitudinal flange.
You have it right for your car Phil. B&C cars appear to have it mounted just the opposite.
This is an original T6 tray. This also might just be a Reutter to Karmann difference? I'm sure Bruce or Jack could shed some light on that.
Keep up the nice work!
JustinJustin Rio
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Justin,
Your last picture of the B T-6 shows the outer longitudinal flange spot welded to the door cavity floor then the sill goes on top. It looks like the mounting sequence can go both ways. As you say: it may be a Karmann vs Reutter difference.
I also noticed the drain holes in the corner of the door cavity floor and also in the center of the sill plate. It's a great idea, which I can easily incorporate. Do you know if both karosseries put them there?
Cheers,
JPjjgpierce@yahoo.com
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FWIW, pics of pieces. All I see are X'd to the drain hole. Usually, the repro's hole for lower hinge pin access is not located correctly and small disc welded in and a location marked from the hinges down.
The two separate rocker pieces are for the later T-6 bodies, the right side part having the drain tube pass-thru hole, T-5 on back would not.
As for that overlap and drain hole being different from R to K, it is not on my list. Whether an oversight or indifference, all I can say now is that the only untouched original I have here that is easily accessible is a Reutter T-6B and it has the forward sill plate on top.
-Bruce
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John, my last two photos are of the same car and everything there is factory. If it was my car that's one drain hole detail I would not follow as that hole in the door well corner gives water direct passage into the longitudinal cavity.Justin Rio
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