The Swiss Miss ('64 C #126687)

[DG58INNM]

For better or worse, I jumped headfirst into metal repairs on the C coupe. Re-assembling the battery box today, but I am not certain of the battery bracket location (nothing was present to show me where it used to be). Can anyone tell me the "correct" distance from the rear battery compartment wall to the rear edge of the bracket. Also the minimum distance between the adjustable lateral movement tab and the right side battery compartment wall? I could just plunk a battery in and fit it to that, but maybe there are real dimensions it should have.
Thanks,
DG

[DG58INNM]

I got the measurements I needed and finished up the battery box this afternoon. Here are a few photos of the task

In the beginning! Somebody long ago cut the nose off this poor old car!


The rear wall could have been saved, though the bottom couple inches was rotten. But I wanted to replace the sides complete, spot welding them to the front beam, which meant the rear wall had to go.


At first I was trying to fit the reapir pieces that had come with the car. But they were a little short to fit properly, and were the "flat" types without the gas heater bubble and contour at the top. So I splurged and ordered new sides along with the new rear wall.


Everything fitted up with screws first. A jillion measurements!


Test fitted the new nose before pulling it all back apart and firing up the welders.


Side panel spot welded to front beam. This panel gets sandwiched between the beam and the inner fender. Broke the spot welds and folded the inner fender back out of the way for access.


Then flattened it back and spot welded it to the new battery box side. Made a noticeable difference in the rigidity of the battery box side.


After doing the other battery box side the same way, the rear wall came next. Oddly, the new sheet metal didn't include this bracket, so I had to harvest it from the old piece.

[DG58INNM]

The rear wall is starting to take shape. This was a surprisingly easy task. The parts fit pretty well, and everything could be reached with the spot welder. Only slightly tedious part was welding the battery cable tube into the new piece. Working access was a little tight and the tube itself had a soft spot at the top. Blew a hole in it and had to dink around a bit to get it filled.


Here's the battery cable tube coming through. Got a really nice smooth weld around it, but it took a while. Lying on my back welding above my head gets old.


Here's the second part of the rear wall. Stopped taking pictures for a while I guess, and didn't take this until after the floor was in.


Floor going in, along with the subject of my first post today. Wasn't sure where the battery bracket set, but got it figured out OK.


Close up of the bracket. I use weld through primer between pieces I'm spot welding, so its all over everything by now. I think it actually makes the welds a little better. Not true for gas or TIG though, which get very sputtery with the zinc.


Finished it all up with the front wall. Another easy piece to install.


The pinch spot welder arms would only reach to the bottom of the front wall. To finish the seam between the front of the floor and the front wall, I used the Lencospot. Don't know what would have been original, but I left a little over an inch of overlap between the panels, and made a double row of spot welds here, one from the top, the other from the bottom. Can't hurt.


The finished product. Next I'll reinstall the upper front trunk wall and get the nose back on this baby!


Take care,
DG

[JTR70]

Hey David,

Thanks for sharing this little project! Extremely nice and clean work as always! I see you got your requested dimensions. Sorry I could not help T-5 and 6 cars are not my strong suit; Ask an A question next time. So is this the project now taking center stage for you? Roadster and the A coupe are on the backburner? Glad to see you got something accomplished today! Justin

BTW: always interesting to study shop photos, we have the exact same spot welder...

[roy mawbey]

David,

Really interesting procedures. Like Justin and others on here, you make it look sort of easy. I realise of course its not the case. I guess it measure once, measure again, double check and maybe even check the double check. It has to be right nothing worse than welding in a panel then finding the next one will not fit correctly.

No other site anywhere that gives so much detail and explanation. Really nice work, I think you are correct about screwing items together first if its possible to make sure. That takes time but gives confidence.

Nice thread.

Roy

[DG58INNM]

Thanks Roy,
I've found that none of this stuff is really difficult, just takes patience and time. As you note, measure many many times and cut once. It is essential to fit everything up in its completed form before fixing anything permanently in place.

I do hope you get those slides scanned in and posted. I'd enjoy seeing them.

Take care,
DG

[Carrera_The_Kid]

Great to see you posting project updates again David. Look forward to seeing more updates in the future

[DG58INNM]

Joris,
Sorry for the slow reply. It is good to be making some progress again. I have let the cars sit too long. Sometimes life just gets very busy.

Wrapping up a few things this afternoon on the front compartment and I'll post some more photos when done. Hopefully I'll also get back to work on one of the other projects soon.
DG

[DG58INNM]

A little update on the '64 C project. Continuing to make progress. After the last post, I rebuilt the upper trunk walls. These were salvaged from a parts car.

Spot welding the upper front trunk wall in place.



New portion of the right upper trunk wall



New portion of the left upper trunk wall. Spot welded to battery box side and front wall, butt welded to existing trunk wall




After finishing the front trunk wall I started looking at the floor perimeter. More problems than I first thought. The Right side front box section was shot. Here it is after removing the "strut"



And from below. Uh oh!




Here is the repair piece I made for this area. Normally I'd have used 18 ga, but found I was out, so made do with a piece 16 ga. I don't think a little extra strength is a bad thing here.


From the inside. Bend in the flanged patch panel made with a stretcher


Welding the patch.

[DG58INNM]

The new piece of "ledge" looking up from underneath



After welding, sprayed with weld-thru primer prior to installing the "strut"



The "strut" fitted and screwed in place, ready for welding



And the "strut" after attacking with the spot welder, and the TIG for the front seam.


Wrapped up with todays work, cleaning and spraying with DP40

[DG58INNM]

Cleaned, brushed, and blasted the front compartment and right side fender well over the past week. Today I sprayed everything with DP40. Nice to see things looking a little more finished. A big change from a car with no nose. I guess the C coupe is here to stay. Originally I was just going to put the nose back together and put it up for sale. But its kind of growing on me now.

Started as this


Now this


A few more views. Pleased with how it is turning out so far.










Next is to tackle the left side "strut", repair the lower edge of the front bulkhead, and also to finally and permanently attach the nose.

Take care,
DG

[JTR70]

Your repairs are really turning out clean David! I envy you that spot welder; your stretcher dies too! So the more time you spend on it the more you're becoming attached huh? I can see why, its going to be sound once you get finished with it! I'm not well versed concerning the details of these later chassis but I find it very interesting that the factory eliminated a lot of the strengthening embossment shapes in the closing panels and went smoother. Thanks for updating this and keep up the great work!!! Justin

[DG58INNM]

The AMAG tag, which attaches to the rear engine tin.

[DG58INNM]

Since it looks like this is going to be more than just a battery box, I've changed the name of the topic.

[JTR70]

Hey David,
That's right if I were sane too I'd sell all my old cars and junk and have perfect 930 turbo in my garage; but what fun would that be? yeah, "swiss Miss" is a great nickname. Interesting history and quite coincidental that the previous owner had an inroad to acquire that old document. Is this chassis extra rusty being that it originated there?
Interesting observation concerning the build quality of these later chassis. I cannot remember which but I have been told that the build quality of either the D'ieteren (Spelling) or the Drauz roadster were especially poor in weld finish, fitment etc. Have you heard that? Thanks again for sharing this build with us!! Justin