'63 356B T-6 Rebuild

[John Pierce]

Thanks guys. I've thought about an English Wheel, but have been able to make everything I need so far without one. I've used them before and they're a nice tool to have. Bending over a curved object usually gets the desired results. If not then a hammer and bag followed by planishing can form the deeper curves.

Thanks Jack. I'll email you.

With the outer frame top flange done it's time to work on the rest of the mess.


Starting to cut out the outer frame bottom flange back to where there's solid metal. With good landmarks I can then make a replacement piece.



Forming 16 gauge metal into multiple bends and curves eats up a lot of time



Once the outer frame was cut I could then flip the car over and cut out the rusted area of the transmission panel and fit a replacement piece.



Doing this in a piecemeal fashion allowed me to use the remaining landmarks to make a pretty accurate replacement. The next part was the lower inner frame and flange. As you can see it's pretty much a goner.



This area is 18 gauge. I placed the flange then shrank it to fit the curve.



Sitting pretty well. The next part was a bit tougher. Turning the metal over into the second curve.



I ended up having to place several relief cuts as it didn't want to lay flat. In the end, with a bit of hammer massaging, it turned out pretty well.



After all the bad was removed and the cavity derusted as much as possible. Time to reverse the process.



I started with the lower inner frame.



Then the transmission panel.



And finally, flip the car, and install the lower outer frame.

Lots of fun. Next to the rest of the frame behind the suspension stop. Thanks for following.

JP

[JTR70]

WOW John, it seems there is no end to the fun you are having. Both Mother nature followed up by Bubba were very, very busy under this car. An amazing amount of patience you have. Keep it up, its looking great!
Justin

[Jonesy_356]

Awesome work John, very inspiring. Thanks for sharing,

Jonesy

[John Pierce]

Thanks guys. Posting here truly keeps me motivated. Especially hearing from the experts on how to do things correctly.

Just a quick update.



The last of the rotted outer frame removed. It looks so nice now



The piecemeal restoration really kept what remaining landmarks there were and the template is nice and flat for the suspension stop to sit upon.



No movement.



Fresh, like a new car! And strong.....like bull.


Next to the inner fender.

John

[John Pierce]

Another quick day.



Further repair of the inner fender. I put an indent into the flange for the suspension stop. I'd rather be working with the 16 and 18 gauge frame metal than 20 gauge as they're much more forgiving



Of course the rusted area had to go through the area of embossment. I cut out a replacement piece from a panel I had. Easier than trying to hammer it correctly.



This one foot section has eaten up a lot of time, but it had to be done. Baby steps will get me there.



The inner side is looking so much better.

On to the suspension stop next.

I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving! We've got so much to be thankful for. And thank you Justin for providing this outlet and resource.

Cheers,

John

[John Pierce]

Ah....the last fix of this messy area!



The suspension stop drilled for rosette welds. Gotta be strong.



I welded the reinforcement piece on and fitted it prior to installation as I'd never get the MIG in there.



Plug welded onto the new outer frame metal.



So nice to get this area done.



Stepping back and to see where I started.

Gotta keep on moving forward, one section at at time.

John

[Phil Planck]

John
Again, great work on a really messy area. While I thought I was done with this area, my suspension stop "drain recess" is full of hard crud. As much as I hate removing it, I think I may find what you did underneath, so it will come off before I reinstall the transaxle.
Phil

[John Pierce]

Before I can dig into the mess around both sides of the torsion bar I have to remove the seat bottom as it will provide better access.



Besides.....it's got so many holes it needs to be replaced anyhow.



I made a paper template of the reproduction seat bottom and marked the upper edge.



This showed that the extent of the weakened and corroded metal went pretty high. This area definitely needed to be replaced. Best to get the correct curvature with the seat bottom still in place.



I decided to install the patch panels in 2 pieces due to the complex curves.



I made a paper template for the rear panel, which also included the side flange.



Tacked in place.



While repairing this area and taking out the seat bottom I found that the inner frame where the seat flange is installed was rotted through also. Looks like another area needing help.

Thanks for following.

[JTR70]

Looking good! Yes, its a nice luxury to be able to remove certain closing panels out of the way for access. Do I spot a sunroof clip there leaning against the wall? Keep up the great work!
Justin

[John Pierce]

Thanks Justin! I was wondering who would spot the clip in the background The clip came with none of the needed internals, but I've managed to scrounge them up. The fun part of this game is trying to find the parts you need. You meet a lot of interesting peeps along the way.

[Don C]

John,
Not too important but THANKS for orienting the pictures in the cars natural stance! Sometimes people have their cars on a rotisserie, take a shot upside down and it's up to us to try and figure what's going on. I'm sure if you've been down the rebuild road it makes sense but some of us are trying to learn before we jump in. Thanks again!
Don

[John Pierce]

My nightmare!!



Left rear torsion region. Just a few holes.



After some repair and removal of the seat bottom the extent of the badness can be seen to a better degree. The flat bottomed torsion area and heater tube are wrong for a B T-6.



I can't believe anyone could weld some metal on, leaving huge gaps for water and dirt to get in, and leave it that way!



Removal of the offending inner frame repair brings to light the worse off outer frame.



The poorly repaired inner frame continues on the other side of the rear bulkhead.



The inner frame and rotted portions of the rear bulkhead flanges were removed.



Bulkhead flanges repaired. I figure if I take it in small steps this area will not get me depressed



Now to the outer frame. Ugh........ What else can I say.



It took some careful cutting and grinding to remove the previous repairs while trying to preserve any landmarks to go from. Very tedious. The bottom standoffs will need to be removed and tossed as they are garbage. I drew in lines where the metal was solid and where to cut to.



Ahhh....the first repair. I made the repair piece out of 16 gauge metal and formed the depression that goes around the torsion tube along with a flange to weld to.



Metal cut back to receive the repair patch.



Tacked in place.



Looking so much better. First step in a long process.

Thanks for following.

[Phil Planck]

John
As the texters say: OMG!

A lot of us have been at that point where we say: "If I had known it was this bad before I started, I would have never started."

This T6 will owe you big time.

Keep at it, and keep up the great work.

I agree, you have to wonder who would do those repairs with any kind of pride.

Phil

[Jack Staggs]

John, I wouldn't be too quick to toss the lower standoff bosses, as they are NLA. You may be able to clean them up for re-use. In a pinch, I have had good success by welding on 616 upper cyl head nuts, with a thick larger OD washer between the nut and the torsion bar cover. Just a thought before you go to the expense of having them custom made.
Although the "agricultural" repairs are ugly, it at least saved the car from a certain fate of being scrapped out years ago. Gotta be thankful for something...
Once again, really nice work! Thanks for sharing.

[John Pierce]

Thanks Jack for the advice. The threads on the pair that were on there were so buggered up as to be useless. Luckily the sunroof clip I have had some nice ones I could salvage.



Welds ground off and media blasted. As good as new.


JP